TR6 aluminum radiators - TR6

Any comments out there on source, price, benefit, bling of replacing my stock TR6 radiator with a new aluminum product?

Alan???

I saw this one at Ron Davis Radiators but I have no idea how much it costs.

(I hope this isn't a copyright violation since it is possibly steering business to him /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif)

The other crew that make them (that I know of) are Wizard Cooling. I have the Wizard one, I've seen the Ron Davis one installed in the shop where my car is living. The Ron Davis one is "prettier" imo, but it's a couple of hundred $ more.

Money no object I'd have gone for it - especially now after seeing the two side by side - but sadly, money was an object. That's not to say that there is anything wrong with the Wizard one, it's just not as pretty...

A race shop can often build you a custom rad, using your old one as a pattern. If you shop around you may be surprised to find this is no more, or even less expensive than buying from a company that stocks them.
I suppose a race shop is used to fabricating one-of-a-kind items, and there can't be much volume in these items even if you manufacture a small run and inventory them.
Simon.

go to jack & tony drews site,he has them. you can adapt one of the off the shelf ford or chevy ones if you don't care about originality of hoses and mounts (adaptation required). i plan to use one from howe racing, model 342I. they can supply with custom nozzle sizes (triumph hose) for same price. about $200.
rob

Hi,

I think you are referring to a different Alan, DNK, but I'll jump in with a couple points anyway.

An aluminum radiator will provide better transfer of heat, i.e. better cooling. Original brass radiators are good, but aluminum is better. Assuming the rad is exactly the same design as the original, all the same capacities, etc., just the different materials, you should see approx. 15-20% better transfer of heat. Only pure copper would make for a better radiator in terms of heat transfer, but at considerably more expense and less durability.

Aluminum is also a lot lighter, probably about half the weight of the original brass. And, the far forward mounting location is a great place to reduce weight, if at all possible (both for improved front to rear balance, plus any weight reduction ahead of or behind the axle lines has a more dramatic effect than between the axle lines). Here, again, even if it were available a pure copper rad would be problem, since it would be quite a bit heavier than even the original brass rad.

One thing to watch for with aluminum rads is that they are welded, not glued/crimped/riveted toegether. The Ron Davis rad that Andy shows above looks to be well made.

Another consideration is the anti-freeze you use. Most available AF today is fully compatible with aluminum. But, some of the old stuff wasn't. Just read the fine print on the bottle, to be sure.

You also shouldn't run straight water in an aluminum rad for very long, but that's not a problem with most street cars that are using some sort of AF mixture anyway. The manufacturer of the rad can best advise what mixture, but I'd assume at least 25% aluminum-grade AF would be the minimum.

Another small consideration, any fittings that are used directly with the rad should be brass or aluminum, not stainless steel. I have been told S/S in direct contact with aluminum will cause problems. I'd sugggest using a thread sealer anyway, with any dissimilar metal, to prevent any possibility of metal-to-metal galling or corrosion.

I simply can't think of many downsides to an aluminum rad.

Most auto manufacturers use them now in modern cars, largely for the weight reduction and cost of materials (recycled soda cans!). However, many of today's cars rolling fresh off the production line use a plastic/aluminum assembly with all sorts of glue and crimped construction. That might be fine for a mass-produced part, but small volume production for special applications like our TRs calls for a higher level of work, IMHO.

I see in their latest catalog that TRF says they now have aluminum rads in stock for TR2/3/4/4A/250/5/6. www.the-roadster-factory.com These look to be close to the original design and likely easy to fit, since they follow the same mounts, etc.

I've also seen discussed adapting a Corvette radiator, but haven't got the specifics.

Tony and Uncle Jack Drews' have a lot of info about using a relatibely inexpensive off-the-shelf radiator from Summit or Jeg's at https://www.tonydrews.com/RadiatorPage.htm. Some fabrication is required and the installation shown is on a TR4, but certainly could be adapted to the other cars. In the past, they also offered a custom-made radiator, specific for TRs, but I don't see it listed right now.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

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Another small consideration, any fittings that are used directly with the rad should be brass or aluminum, not stainless steel. I have been told S/S in direct contact with aluminum will cause problems. I'd sugggest using a thread sealer anyway, with any dissimilar metal, to prevent any possibility of metal-to-metal galling or corrosion.



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Actually, Alan, I think you might have that backwards. I have a Ron Davis aluminum radiator in my 6 and Ron Davis specifically states that brass fittings should not be used in their aluminum radiators, only stainless steel. It is the brass that will react with the aluminum. That is why they only supply stainless steel temperature sensors to be threaded into their units.

I notice that TRF is now selling aluminum radiators for the whole Triumph line. Their pricing is about 20% cheaper than a Ron Davis.

Bill

Alan A., aka Alana

I am using a BMW M3 Radiator in my project. Granted I'm also using an M3 engine but it fit very nicely with very little conversion work. BMW designs the bottom of the unit to be held in place by rubber stoppers that are simply mounted to the inside of the front skid plate and I fabricated a new aluminum shroud which is used to locate and secure the top. It has about a 5 degree cant towards the rear and an electric fan mounted on the inside as well. Would be a considerable cooling improvement for a stock TR6 motor you'd just need to do a little trial and error to find the correct formed radiator hoses. I still had to do that in my project.

I have had a lot of experience with SS and aluminum parts. Over time the SS will turn the aluminum to a crumbling powder-like material. Anti-seize or pipe dope will certainly help at least delay the process. Not sure how brass would react.

The trick with mounting aluminum to non-aluminum is to avoid metal to metal contact. This can be accomplished by use of rubber or urethane washers, or even just well painted surfaces. There are urethane or other non-metallic washers with sleeves that prevent the contact of the aluminum flange and non-aluminum fastener. Also, never put a stainless steel or non-aluminum bolt into an aluminum thread. Use aluminum.

Also, in a salty air environment, all aluminum will corrode unless covered with a protective coat.

"Also, in a salty air environment, all aluminum will corrode unless covered with a protective coat."

i'm sorry but i do not agree.there are marine grade aluminums ( 5000 series) that do not corrode in salt water.
rob

wow,
that bmw engine looks to me to be the ultimate engine swap. and it's even an inline 6. looks like you're building the NEW triumph for bmw already. keep us posted on your project and send more pics
rob

I stand corrected. My statement was based on the high rate of failure experienced in commercial aluminum AC heat exchangers and other automotive aluminum corrosion caused by salt air exposure here in Santa Cruz. Hopefully the aluminum radiators on the market use the 5000 series material.

My question is WHY?? Even on 100 deg days my 71 tr6 runs well within the temp range it should. In my experience they do much better than the 3's or 4's in hot weather, so what is the need to improve on a fine cooling system? My guess is that if you have a heating problem, just putting on a new radiator might not help at all.
MD(mad dog)

My interest in the aluminum radiator option is driven by my total car rebuild rather than a specific heating problem. I need to either have my existing radiator recored or replaced before putting it back on the rebuilt chasis. At this point I'm looking to do a quality job and $200 for a replacement or $400 for an aluminum isn't all that big a difference.

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My question is WHY??


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The answer is, because it's cool , pun intended.

Then IMHO,200$ could be better spent elswhere.Otherwise you will have fixed a problem that did not exist,clearly a violation the first law of DYI......
MD(mad dog)

But I did fix a problem that existed, no radiator.