This is the link to the Plymouth site. I used this info to repair the capillary gauge in my TR3. You need a donor gauge for the capillary tube and ether filled bulb. I've seen capillary water temp gauges at Pep Boys for $16.
Basically, you cut off the old tube and bulb leaving about three or so inches of the old tube sticking out the back of the gauge. Then the donor gauge bulb goes into a salt, ice, water solution which drops the temperature of the ether to about zero degrees Fahrenheit. That keeps the ether in liquid form in the bulb. Then the tube is cut on the donor up by the gauge, and soldered on the tube on the old gauge using a pre-made brass sleeve, or piece of copper tube.
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Edit: When I got done with the gauge, I put the bulb into a pot of boiling water, and it registered EXACTLY 212 deg. The actual length of the tube is not critical, just make it so that the length you leave on the old gauge is approximately the length you leave on the donor gauge. Also, using the salt, ice water slurry will ensure that the ether gets cold enough to stay in the bulb, so you don't have to hurry so much. Don't use just ice. If everything is prepared properly, the time from cutting the donor tube to final solder up shouldn't take more then a minute.
One more thing, if the gland nut holding the bulb into the engine is a different size then the original, you can swap them when the donor tube is cut. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif