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Martx-5, when you're done, I'd love to see you do a little write-up on what you accomplished... The 4-pot interests me... Do you need a brake proportioning valve between front and rear?
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I can do that. Once I'm done making up the bracket for the other side and straighten out a few other things, I'll take some pics etc. and give you some dimensional data.
What I couldn't figure out was why Moss etc. didn't sell this Toyota kit for the TR3s. I work for an electrical rebuilder, and we also do calipers. So I took a couple of the 4-pot Toyotas off the shelf to see how things would fit. It turned out the the problem was the caliper brackets. The TR6 brackets move the caliper out about 1/4" compared to thee TR3 bracket, which allows the Toyota caliper to bolt right up. No one carries the bracket new. However, there should be plenty of used ones out there.
With the TR6 brackets, the late TR6 caliper bolts (the shoulder measures about .470" or 12mm), and the metric end brake line, the conversion works. Also, you will need the 10 3/4" rotor if you have the 11". Of course, if you're really on a budget, you could cut the 11" one down. There's nothing but rust on the edge anyway. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif
Whether or not this system will need a brake proportioning valve, I don't know. Moss doesn't include it in their kits. Did Triumph put one in the TR4-TR6?? I don't think they did.
Also, I've read about the Morgan rear drum wheel cylinders as being better for brake balance on these cars, even with the stock calipers. Has anybody put them on a TR3??
I'm really not expecting miracles from this setup. I don't think that stopping distances will drop appreciably...I'd probably get better stopping distances with the Morgan rear cylinders...but I think that pedal pressure should improve, fade resistance should improve, and I know there is less unsprung weight with the Toyota calipers. I have the one piece (bridge pipe) Girlings and they weigh in at about 12 lbs. while the Toyota weighs in at about 9 lbs.
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