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Thread: Pads under new floor

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    Pads under new floor

    I have removed, with considerable difficulty, floors and inner sills from my '61 TR3A. Total rust. Now I'm ready to rebuild. But I neglected to note where the square fabric pads went. Are they on the outriggers, beneath the inner sill extension that fits to the outrigger square? Or are they on top of the inner sill extension, below the floor? Or is one pad on the frame, and the other on the sill, between it and the floor?

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    Re: Pads under new floor

    The pads go on the outriggers and support the inner sill. The floor contacts directly on the top of the sill plates.
    John

    1955 TR2

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    Re: Pads under new floor

    Thanks for the quick response. --jj

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    Re: Pads under new floor

    Is the body tub still on the frame for the sill and floor replacement? If it is done off the frame you may lose the door gaps because the inner sills and floor are all that holds front and back together.

    David
    TR3A TS75524L

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    Re: Pads under new floor

    The body is still on the frame. I created a connecting bracket that goes from the B pillar to the A pillar to maintain (I hope) the correct door distance. The biggest obstacle at this point is that the front (A) pillar seems to have dropped and pulled outward an inch or so. I'm hoping that I can push it up and weld it to the sill, or weld it and then push the unit up to bolt to the outrigger. We'll see. (It's no fun if it fits together like a lego, right?)

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    Re: Pads under new floor

    I ended up getting the Harbor Freight portable hydraulic tool to open up my door gap and position the "A" post. The PO had done the floor and sill replacement off the frame and had managed to lose the door gaps. Drivers door gap was 1/4" too small for the door.
    Sight across the rear cockpit to the front valance to make sure it is true.

    David

    https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...kit-62114.html
    TR3A TS75524L

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    Re: Pads under new floor

    David I am curious, where the body tub moved that ¼? Or was the movement spread out. I guess if the A post was not welded something could slide down the outrigger, but that inner kick panel also that must have be difficult. You are pretty sharp and probably had it all undone and only need to spread it. Heck I tried to make those doors cool tight but everything went wrong when I tried to put it back together; I was ¼ tight also. I had to use 7-8 or pads on the back to get the B post to open…………………Bent hinges, ground the back of latches, and ones I am notsure of

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    Re: Pads under new floor

    It is hard to know what was done to the tub before I got the car. He had replaced the floor and inner sills. Everything was welded and the kick panel had primer on it inside and out.
    I had found the door would not fit in the gap. Not that it was tight but would not fit without hinges attached to the door. Working inside the tub with a bright light I noticed the light shining through the kick panel. Further investigation reviled it had been repaired with fiber glass. The bottom of the "A"post was kind of rotton so the remaons of the kick panel was all that was supporting the tgb on that side. The passenger side the gap was way big.

    I cut out the bottom of the kick panel and the "A" post and pushed the door gap open till the door fitted. I believe the inner sill droops a bit because fitting the wing was a bear. The 1/2" of bondo was hiding the stress in the wing. When I made a repair panel for the wing taking measurements off the wing before I cut out the rust it was too short and oil canned. Took me a while to twig what the problem was.
    Transporting the car with no support in that area may have contributed to the problem as the rotten firewall was about all that held up that side

    David
    Drivers side kick panel before repair.jpg
    A post repair.jpg
    TR3A TS75524L

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