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Thread: Clutch hydraulics

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    Darth Vader
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    Clutch hydraulics

    Will be replacing master & slave cylinders and flex line. Question - it would seem better to replace the slave and flex line first before the M/C. Is that the best procedure? The clevis pin in the pedal is also worn and must be replaced as well. That explains the noise when I press the pedal - not every time but enough. I'll try the local hardware store.

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    Yoda steveg's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch hydraulics

    Don't think the order would make a difference.

    The only thing you're keeping is the hard pipe. Drain out all the fluid, then detach the slave, flex line and master. Blow the line out with brake cleaner, then compressed air. Then install your new parts, fill up the juice and bleed.

    I like to pull all the fluid out of the reservoir with a plastic syringe, then only deal with the fluid in the system.
    Steve Gerow
    Altadena, CA, USA
    1959 AH BN6 2-seat roadster / 1974 TR6 Emerald Green
    Check out my galleries:
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    Jedi Warrior RJS's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch hydraulics

    Agreed with the above. Only other comments I would add are 1) be sure you get the correct original bore diameters on the Clutch MC and SC. I suffered with a clutch which acted like an "on-off" switch for many years until I realized another mechanic installed the wrong diameter slave cylinder. HUGE difference getting the correct one in there and really made driving the car much more enjoyable.

    Also, the worn clevis pin can make a huge difference in clutch feel. My clutch engagement was "floating" - high one day - low the next. No idea what was going on. Then, for unrelated reason this summer I replaced the clutch MC hardware (incl new clevis) and as a collateral benefit the "floating" clutch engagement disappeared. I will say, the clevis pin had 8,000 miles on it and probably overdue.

    Bob
    1966 TR4A IRS

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    Darth Vader
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    Re: Clutch hydraulics

    I assume the slave cylinder is correct. It came from the Roadster Factory.

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    Darth Vader
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    Re: Clutch hydraulics

    Something happened today I still don't believe. I bought a new clevis pin (1.89) from my local Ace Hardware store but stupidly carried it out to the car in the MC rod. You guessed it - I heard it fall out as I got into the Subaru. I searched in vain outside and inside the car How could it disappear like that? Then I saw it. It had somehow impossibly fallen between the A pillar door jamb and the trim strip. The head had stopped it from falling in. I confidently reached for it and...it somehow fell into the opening, which had to be about 7/16 wide. Unless the trim strip comes off, it will be forever lost in there. I had to buy another one. Moral - put all small parts in your pocket but make sure it has no holes.

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    Jedi Hopeful Madflyer's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch hydraulics

    There is an unwritten law dropped items will always land at the location most out of reach. As for the pin I made mine from a 1/4 inch shoulder bolt that I cut off all threads and drilled for cotter pin. To the point FYI Slave cyl early TR's were 3/4 inch MC and 3/4 inch slave. It was latter changed to 1 inch MC and 3/4 inch slave. Reason was fluid moves between cylinders at one to one. Example move MC one inch and slave cyl goes one inch ( 3/4 to 3/4 ) but with one inch MC, slave goes 1 1/4 inch. Moves bearing more and easy shifting. I think these changes were made in early TR 4's. Madflyer

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    Yoda CJD's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch hydraulics

    I know I have had cars with a complete tool set lost in the body and frame.
    John

    1955 TR2

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