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Thread: Brand New Generator Low Voltage

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  1. #21
    Yoda CJD's Avatar
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    Re: Brand New Generator Low Voltage

    I'm hoping the replacement will solve the problem. Usually the cutout is solid and final. It clicks closed on startup and snaps loose a couple seconds after shutdown.

    One thought...the original controller has settings for the contact gaps, which is separate from the adjustments. Is there a setting for gap on your controller?
    John

    1955 TR2

  2. #22
    Freshman Member TAS525's Avatar
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    Re: Brand New Generator Low Voltage

    Thanks John. Yes, I just used the old numbers to set all the gaps on the new regulator and cutout. Even though these units come “pre-adjusted,” the Moss videos (A few years old by now) recommend setting the gaps according to the Service Manual, which I did. Having spoken with the Tech this morning, however, he assured me the new control boxes do not require this. I’ll try to “plug and play” with the new one. We’ll see. Drove the car (finally) this evening for about 30 minutes or so. Ignition warning light dark at idle, but gradually increased in brightness with higher revs. Ammeter still barely on the plus side (No Load) and Warning Light out at shutdown. Battery was at 12.5 as well.

  3. #23
    Darth Vader
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    Re: Brand New Generator Low Voltage

    Sounds like something is wired backwards. The light should go out, not get brighter.
    Electrical problems are a royal PITA but at least it sounds like you have some knowledge. Keep at it. You'll find the problem sooner or later.

  4. #24
    Freshman Member TAS525's Avatar
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    Re: Brand New Generator Low Voltage

    Quote Originally Posted by pdplot View Post
    Sounds like something is wired backwards. The light should go out, not get brighter.
    Electrical problems are a royal PITA but at least it sounds like you have some knowledge. Keep at it. You'll find the problem sooner or later.
    It really is screwy and I would agree with this, except for the fact that nothing has been re-wired and the generator has been polarized for + ground. This entire project was supposed to be a fairly simple remove and replace (What job isn’t right?!). The Lucas Fault Manual mentions this abnormality and suggests . . . wait for it . . . cleaning the cutout contacts! I’m afraid if I “clean” them anymore there may be nothing left! I’ll try again, however, while I wait for the new - NEW - control box. Y’all are fantastic with your ideas and suggestions and I’m so appreciative. Keep ‘em coming!
    Tommy

    1959 TR3A TS43172LO (1959 - Present)

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