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TR2/3/3A TR3A gas tank repair

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J

JAJohn

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I took out the gas tank of my TR3 that had been sitting in a garage for 40+ years. Top and sides of the tank solid, but on the bottom near the fuel line tube it's rusted through, leaving a hole the size of a quarter. Anything I can do? I can weld.
Then, what do I do about the fuel line to the engine? How do I clean it out? Or is replacing easier?
 
TR3driver

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I have been known to repair TR3 fuel tanks with soft solder, and in one case a patch cut from a 'tin' can. No reason you couldn't braze or weld, that was just the method I had available at the time. You'll probably want something thicker than an old soup can to mount the outlet bung, though.

Both repairs worked out well. One of the cars got wrecked and junked about 5 years later; the other was still holding fuel over 20 years later.

The trick is be certain there are no traces of fuel left inside. I flushed with running water (stuck the hose in the filler and let it overflow out the sender hole) until I couldn't see any colored stripes in the water; then drained and left it in the sun to dry. Repeated the exercise the next day, just to be sure. No fuel odor inside the tank at all (otherwise I would have done it again).

I just blew the lines out with compressed air. Worked for me, YMMV.
 
TomMull

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My choice would be to get a new tank. Same with the fuel line. The tank can be welded but follow all the rules as it is dangerous. I weld also but no fuel tanks. The tanks also tend to get rust and crud in the seems and are difficult to clean and seal.
The tank for the earlier TR3A,s are reasonable at about $275, the post 60k cars nearly twice that; maybe only ally or stainless available. Shipping will be expensive also.
Tom
 
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J

JAJohn

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TR3driver said:
I have been known to repair TR3 fuel tanks with soft solder, and in one case a patch cut from a 'tin' can. No reason you couldn't braze or weld, that was just the method I had available at the time. You'll probably want something thicker than an old soup can to mount the outlet bung, though.

Both repairs worked out well. One of the cars got wrecked and junked about 5 years later; the other was still holding fuel over 20 years later.

The trick is be certain there are no traces of fuel left inside. I flushed with running water (stuck the hose in the filler and let it overflow out the sender hole) until I couldn't see any colored stripes in the water; then drained and left it in the sun to dry. Repeated the exercise the next day, just to be sure. No fuel odor inside the tank at all (otherwise I would have done it again).

I just blew the lines out with compressed air. Worked for me, YMMV.
Click to expand...

No worry about anything other than dust inside. It sat for years. I found a small screwdriver rolling around in it.
 
CJD

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I had an ebay tank that I tried to use. After pulling it 5 times to repair different leaks, I bought new. Best decision I made. Once they reach a point they get holes, it is hard to repair all the rust pinholes, unless you are willing to patch the entire bottom.
 
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Chasman18

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I purchased a new tank for my 59 TR3A. Alas, and my error, gas outlet on wrong side. It appears that I can still use the tank; however sending unit and breather tube now on left side instead of right. Any issues with making this adjustment? Wiring no issue, easy to drill hole in floor for breather tube. Any other issues? Thanks from an amateur restorer.
 
TomMull

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1. This is an old topic. You should post this as a new topic. The only people who will see your reply are those who followed this one in the past.

2. I have a similar tank which I bought on sale somewhere and never used. This one has a center outlet and a right outlet. It also has no hole for the gauge. The tanks for the pre-60,000 commission numbered cars (My 59 TR3A is one of those) and the later cars are different.

That said, I think your plan is good but I can't speak from experience.

Tom
 
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