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Thread: 100-6 start up issues

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    100-6 start up issues

    CV19 has given me a rare chance to spend some time with my 100-6. However, my first journey was cut short when it just cut out.

    The car has a Pertronix ignition fitted, and was running fine before the above happened. There's a healthy spark at the coil, but nothing at the plugs. I've looked at the Pertronix website, and checked the module as per these instructions (which seems to be working fine). Therefore, I assumed the next most likely culprit was a bad ground. I've checked and cleaned the ground from the coil to the chassis, which didn't fix things. I'm now not sure where to turn next.

    I'm debating whether driving a non-power steering car can count as my daily exercise, so any help getting her going again would be appreciated!

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    Re: 100-6 start up issues

    Check the distributor rotor with a new one. Lots of them crack and divert the spark.

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    Re: 100-6 start up issues

    Make sure your flex-wire ground is good between the movable and fixed distributor plates. Sometimes these become intermittant. If they're insulated the wire can break internally.

    Make sure there is good ground continuity between Pertronix base plate and the chassis through the various joints and clamps of the distributor and ground strap. You may need to clean things up to help the grounding. I'd read about some UK Mini racers who traced Pertronix problems to bad grounding between distributor and chassis. I added a 3rd flex wire from the Pertronix base plate, out through the side of the distributor and directly to a connector on the chassis. Belt & suspenders.
    Steve Gerow
    Altadena, CA, USA
    Maker of most complete Big Healey rear disc kit
    Check out my galleries:
    http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow


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    Re: 100-6 start up issues

    Good spark at the coil means the Pertronix is working. Not getting spark to the plugs means it is the rotor, distributer cap, or the wires.

    The easiest to change is the rotor, if you have a spare. Look for cracks or a loose rivet.

    On the cap, make sure the carbon spring loaded center contact is free to move in & out so it can make continuous contact with the center of the rotor.

    Look for cracks in the cap.

    If all those check out, it may be time for new wires (if it didn't sputter or run badly before quitting, I would suspect the one from the coil to the cap first).

    If you still have the stock side entry cap, there could be corrosion where the screws go into the plug wires.

    Dave

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    Re: 100-6 start up issues

    The connections in the cap between the piercing screws and cables can give out. If there's enough wire, one can trim 1/4" off the end and re-attach the cable to the screw. Some of the replacement caps had screws off-center which did a bad job of piercing the cables. Resistance (non-metallic) cables are worse in this respect.
    Steve Gerow
    Altadena, CA, USA
    Maker of most complete Big Healey rear disc kit
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    Re: 100-6 start up issues

    Steve & I are on the same page

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    Re: 100-6 start up issues

    With all of us hunkered down reading the Forum, anyone can get extra-fast service.
    Steve Gerow
    Altadena, CA, USA
    Maker of most complete Big Healey rear disc kit
    Check out my galleries:
    http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow


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