TR2/3/3A Crankshaft Thrust Washers

Hello All,
I'm starting re-assembly of a TR4 engine, and have a couple questions about thrust washers. The standard thickness is .092", but I'm measuring .054" of endplay without any washers installed. Do I buy standard thickness washers and shave nearly half their thickness, or buy +.008" washers and only put one side in? Does there need to be washers on both sides of the bearing cap for proper wear?
Thanks, Phil

Yes, have to have two half-washers per side, total of 4 pieces. IIRC the crank hits something else, so motion measured without washers installed doesn't mean much.

Try measuring with your old washers installed, then measure how badly worn they are.

Or just order two sets of thrusts, they aren't that expensive. Not uncommon to need one pair oversize and one pair standard anyway (the book only gives a .002" range for end float but the oversize washers are .005" thicker).

During my rebuilds I have always had to take a few thousandths off the washers to get the clearance right. Half would be too much, though!

As usual, if something is really off it's because I screwed something up. The original thrust washers apparently got left at the machine shop, and that business closed a few days after I picked up the motor. So my measurement was with no washers installed, leaving the crankshaft movement to stop as it contacted the block. Looking at it again I realized that there is a recess machined for the washers to set in. So if I read my calipers right and my math is OK, the standard .092" washers will be .0005" too thick. I think taking 1 or 2 thousandths off each side will not be a problem.
I had left the bottom end for the shop to take apart, and didn't think to look for the thrust washers when I picked it up. Every engine I've worked on had thrust controlled by lips on the main bearings.
Thanks for the comments!
Phil

It could have been worse...I have several friends who lost whole engines or cars when a business closed the doors!