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Thread: Front apron position

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    Front apron position

    Slowly but surely, I've been reassembling the body on my 1954 TR2. The front fenders are on and now I'm trying to position the front apron. The curve of the front apron and the curve of the front of the fenders are not exactly the same. All of these parts have come from different cars. I can't tell if the apron needs to be bent a little or if the fenders have too much of a curve.
    Can anyone tell me what the distance should be from the back of the front wheel well (at the firewall) to the front of the bottom of the front fender?
    I think that I need to push the bottom of the front of the fender forward to get the curve of the front of the fender to line up with the curve of the front apron.
    Any advice would be appreciated.
    Thanks, JC

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    Yoda
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    Re: Front apron position

    Yes those fits can be tricky. I would not be able to get those numbers exact because the fire wall slops, and I would have get a vertical point on the fender; try some different reference points, and I will try and help. Anyways, do your fenders have slotted or round holes where the apron bolts and what kind of condition are the front fenders; are the 3 bolts holes on the very bottom nice and not bent. What is the condition of the inner front fenders where the fender bolts?

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    Jedi Hopeful
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    Re: Front apron position

    You really don't want to get involved in bending the front apron, so bending the fenders is the best alternative. The apron is what it is. There is no right or wrong if it looks good.

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    Jedi Knight
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    Re: Front apron position

    I have been working on a 59 TR3 now for the last several years. The hood is original but I believe most all of the fenders and I know the nose piece are from different cars. Here is what I have determined to be the best way to fit the various components back on the car.
    Fit the front fenders as well as the nose piece onto the car loosely . Then fit the bonnet or hood to that assembly. Only when all of those components are on the car can you determine the best fit. I emphasize "best fit". Once you get a best fit on those pieces add the doors to determine if those front fenders are giving you a best fit on the front of the doors. Of course you will also be looking at the rear of the doors in case you need to move the doors forward or back.
    If you do not look at all of those components as a unit you will likely be very disappointed when the "next " piece is added.
    I will add that as to the curve of the fenders -the bolt holes provide enough room to adjust the fit to some degree. You just need to determine what you want and work from one end of the fender. You may need a second person to push or pull on the fender or nose piece while the second person tightens the bolts . I have been amazed at how much change in curvature of the fenders I can get doing that.
    If you are a perfectionist then you can go back and determine the best ways to alter various pieces to improve the fit to your satisfaction.
    Ain't this fun!!!!!
    Charley
    1962 TR4
    1963 TR4
    1959 TR3A A work in progress.

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    Re: Front apron position

    Thanks for the input from everyone. I am posting a couple of photos that show the misalignment issue. This car is a collection of parts. One fender has round holes for the bolts that attach to the front apron and the other fender has oval holes. Both fenders are in great shape...that's why I'm using them. I expect that the one with the round holes is an aftermarket. I see what you mean about loose fitting all the components first. Before I was working on this end, I replaced the rear apron. I must have put that thing on and taken it off at least 50 times before it was positioned right so that I could get it welded in place. So what do we call this...a labor of love? I am thinking that the front apron has lost its normal curve, likely from moving and shipping and storage. I'm not real excited about try to re-establish the normal curve, but I want it to fit right and line up with the fenders as it should. The top and bottom of the apron seem to be flush with the outside edge of the fenders.
    After looking at the photos, let me know if you guys have any thoughts.
    Thanks again.0318201402a 1.jpg0318201402 1.jpg

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    Yoda
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    Re: Front apron position

    I would not bolt the apron to the tub just yet. Let the apron float on the tub between the fenders and bolt those 3 together; the round holes usually means a early fender. You might even want to remove the bridge or tie piece on the apron, so can the best fit. You my ever my want to remove the tie piece brackets that are welded to the tub and re-weld them, but not yet. Like others have said, the hood and the doors are critical also, especially the doors, they open and close. I really do not see that alignment issue in the pictures as a problem that cannot be fixed by fiddling . I can see a bolt holding the apron down through the headlight hole. How does the hood fit now? I remember John posting how a tr2 hood has a sharp edge at the back that I think he even trimmed.

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    Re: Front apron position

    I can make my fenders look that far off . To me once you get to the point you are , I would loosen or back off (way back) the bolts between the fenders and the inner fenders. Then I would concentrate on trying to get the fender to apron bolts in and see if you can get the fender and apron to match up. Then you can go back to the fender to inner fender bolts. Right now the inner fender is holding the outer fender in place and not allowing you to manipulate the fender to apron.
    i say this as I see the bolt through the left headlight hole holding the inner and outer fender together. I could be wrong on this but hope it helps.
    Charley
    1962 TR4
    1963 TR4
    1959 TR3A A work in progress.

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    Re: Front apron position

    I said that wrong; what I meant was, I would not bolt the fenders to the tub in the front yet. Let the whole front end move on the tub. I would put the bolts in the back of the fender starting at the top to push the fenders forward then bolt the fenders and apron together . I use drift pins or small sleever bars/ tapered shafts-- to pry the fenders left and right through the bolt holes and up or down after the 3 are bolted together. I believe the apron will come up to meet the fender by prying or pushing and pulling. I would put a drift pin through the head-light hole from the apron to the fender and pry down and work the high spot out, but I would try and work it out as I went.

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    Re: Front apron position

    Looking at those pics...that's actually a great start! Start at one end (top or bottom..and I personally recommend bottom to get the ends even)..and work one bolt at a time to the other end. Pull and push the two into place as you work one bolt at a time. If a bolt absolutely won't pull the parts into alignment, snip the outside of the bolt hole in the wing to allow more change in curvature.
    John

    1955 TR2

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    Re: Front apron position

    Thank you to everyone who has replied. The fenders and mounted and the doors open and close without any problem. The hood lines up nicely although the hood itself will need some work.
    My plan is to loosen the bolts on the front of the fender and start lining up the bolts between the fender and the apron.
    I will post again after I have spent some time working on this. After all, I've been working on this car for about 30 years. The TR has often been put on a back burner while other projects were completed.
    The MG Midget and Sunbeam Alpine took some time but those are done, for the most part. There is always some thing that needs attention.
    Thanks again to everyone.S5002040.jpgS5001300.jpg

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