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Thread: Grease cap

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    Grease cap

    This may be a dumb question but is there a trick to securing the grease cap on a TR3 rotor.
    There is a hole in the center, assuming for a grease fitting but the cap is not designed to be secured.
    I can make it out of round and hope it stays in but not sure.

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    Re: Grease cap

    The grease cap in its original shape should have a rounded edge that is inserted into the opening. That edge then holds the cap in place. If your cap will not hold in place by itself , you may need a new cap.
    The hole in the cap is not for a grease zerk. It is used by many of us to help remove the cap. The traditional way to remove the cap is to insert a screw into that hole and turn the screw in. It will come in contact with the axle and "push" the cap off the hub. Unfortunately after several times doing that the hole gets enlarged and the screw no longer works, even with larger screws. When I bought a new cap I welded a small nut onto the top of the cap over the hole. Now I use a small bolt instead of a screw to "push" the cap off.
    Charley
    1962 TR4
    1963 TR4
    1959 TR3A A work in progress.

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    Re: Grease cap

    Thanks. Cap is new and is a loose fit that will not stay.

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    Re: Grease cap

    Have tapped with a hammer to push it in some?

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    Re: Grease cap

    I've had the same problem, some new caps aren't made right. Fortunately I had some old ones that were still usable.

    BTW, original tool kit included a 10-32 screw for forcing the caps off. Apparently originals were sterner stuff than the repros, that trick has never worked for me unless I weld or glue a nut inside.

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    Re: Grease cap

    Severly

    Quote Originally Posted by sp53 View Post
    Have tapped with a hammer to push it in some?

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    Re: Grease cap

    The new caps that don't work were part of my wasted money during my restoration. Repro parts are getting worse.
    John

    1955 TR2

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    Re: Grease cap

    If TRF does not have something that will work, perhaps some crimping tool for sheet metal. Many years ago I put down spouts on homes and we had this crimping tool to put little pleats on the edge of the metal; it would only need a few. Heck you could probably do something with light chisel, try to not cut through, and hole in a board; the hub cap or knock off will be there also.

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    Re: Grease cap

    Jay,
    Do you care to share the source of the part.
    Charley
    Charley
    1962 TR4
    1963 TR4
    1959 TR3A A work in progress.

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    Re: Grease cap

    If you can find a piece of pipe or socket that is close to the size of the ID of the cap, slip the cap over it and make a few center punch marks around the OD. This might raise the metal around the marks enough to make the cap a tight fit in the hub.
    Berry

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    Re: Grease cap

    Had one come out while I was driving. Scared me half to death. Thought the wheel was coming lose.

    David
    TR3A TS75524L

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    Re: Grease cap

    bought two from TRF. Both the same. Just ordered two from Moss; will check them out.
    in dealing with AM parts it can be hit or miss. Don’t blame TRF just a miss

    Quote Originally Posted by charleyf View Post
    Jay,
    Do you care to share the source of the part.
    Charley

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    Re: Grease cap

    nothing like a sudden rattle at 60 plus to get your attention

    Quote Originally Posted by DavidApp View Post
    Had one come out while I was driving. Scared me half to death. Thought the wheel was coming lose.

    David

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    Re: Grease cap

    tried several items to secure to include a cold chisel, block of wood, several mallets and hammers, etc.
    problem appears to be the lip is curled under which will not push out the band to tighten the fit.

    Quote Originally Posted by titanic View Post
    If you can find a piece of pipe or socket that is close to the size of the ID of the cap, slip the cap over it and make a few center punch marks around the OD. This might raise the metal around the marks enough to make the cap a tight fit in the hub.
    Berry

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    Re: Grease cap

    Quote Originally Posted by Jayplum View Post
    bought two from TRF. Both the same. Just ordered two from Moss; will check them out.
    in dealing with AM parts it can be hit or miss. Don’t blame TRF just a miss
    We all understand that the suppliers like TRF and Moss keep getting new stocks of parts. And anyone of those new stocks can contain a bunch of faulty parts. So it is best to notify the supplier of the problem so they can work to get it corrected. It is how they deal with you from that point that makes the difference in a supplier that you want to continue to order from.
    Charley
    1962 TR4
    1963 TR4
    1959 TR3A A work in progress.

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    Re: Grease cap

    Quote Originally Posted by charleyf View Post
    We all understand that the suppliers like TRF and Moss keep getting new stocks of parts. And anyone of those new stocks can contain a bunch of faulty parts. So it is best to notify the supplier of the problem so they can work to get it corrected. It is how they deal with you from that point that makes the difference in a supplier that you want to continue to order from.
    Indeed. And TRF's response to me has always been to replace the defective product as soon as they can.
    Randall
    56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
    71 Stag LE1473L waiting engine rebuild
    71-72-73 Stag LE2013LBW waiting OD gearbox rebuild

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    Re: Grease cap

    Same here. However some times that seems to be a bit of a wait. But they do make good on the replacements.
    Charley
    1962 TR4
    1963 TR4
    1959 TR3A A work in progress.

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    Re: Grease cap

    TRF has always stood behind their parts when I have had a problem unlike another supplier.

    David
    TR3A TS75524L

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    Re: Grease cap

    I have had excellent responses and assistance from TRF and Moss over the years. No reflection on either.
    As to that, I believe the current problem is the loose nut behind the (steering) wheel - i.e. me.
    Measured the hub at 41.83mm; measured a salvage hub I had and had 41.37mm. May not be totally accurate at this time of morning but enough to show perhaps a different hub put on by PO. Caps fit on salvage hub but PO also had to use sealer to hold cap in place.
    Submitted question to Moss Tech to see if there is another cap that may fit. Hubs seem to be working even if they are incorrect.
    FYI, I am changing from wire to disc wheels. Have not found where the hub needs to be changed as well; just the studs.

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    Re: Grease cap

    Quote Originally Posted by Jayplum View Post
    FYI, I am changing from wire to disc wheels. Have not found where the hub needs to be changed as well; just the studs.
    That's right; the hubs only had different part numbers because they came with the studs loaded in them. Only the studs are actually different.

    Changing the rear studs is lots of fun, though. The studs are threaded in from the face, then peened over in back like a big rivet. On the later cars (with front disc brakes), the hubs tend to "become one" with the shaft; even having the special factory puller is no guarantee of success in removing the hubs without ruining them.

    My suggestion is to remove the hubs and shafts as an assembly (locktabs & 6 bolts behind the axle flange) to get access to the back of the studs. Then you can see what you're doing as you grind away as much as you can without damaging the hub; then unscrew the stud as far as it will go. Turn it back in and grind some more. Repeat as necessary.

    The good news is you can leave the brakes in position and don't have to open the hydraulic system. The bad news is that you should recheck the axle end float (with a dial indicator) once you've got it back together. This would also be a good time to change the inner oil seals.

    Randall
    56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
    71 Stag LE1473L waiting engine rebuild
    71-72-73 Stag LE2013LBW waiting OD gearbox rebuild

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