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Expanding the skill set

DrEntropy

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A neighbor has a 2008 Infiniti G37, over-revved it and the oil pump impeller shattered. Apparently this is not uncommon with these 3.5L mills. An outfit (Z1 Motorsports) has an interesting explanation for the failure, offering a set of billet cut gears to replace the brittle sintered steel OEM set using the cheaper manufacturing process.

The complexity of this engine is impressive, the chore of replacing that pump, not so much. Have to drop the cast aluminum intermediate oil pan to get the pump body off the crankshaft. Doing this with a lift would come down to lifting the body off the engine/subframe and putting the engine on a stand. In this case, another neighbor and self spent a couple hours wallowin' around on our backs under the car on jackstands, trying to find and undo all the fasteners holding that casting in place! All for the lack of half-an-inch of clearance at the front of the pan to pull the pump straight off for R&R. Somewhere in Japan an engine designer's ears should be aflame...

This car has less than 90K miles on it, a missed shift caused the mayhem. Pieces of the gears and pump housing in the lower oil pan kinda gave indication of catastrophic failure. A supposed experienced Nissan tech began the job thinking the issue was in the top-end, failed lifter or the like, but found the evidence of oil pump failure after he'd opened the top-end and found nothing amiss. Since then he's become MIA, leaving the half disassembled engine and my good neighbor high and dry. Yesterday afternoon, the other tech neighbor decided he'd step in and help, I volunteered to join in. Been observing this project from the beginning, not being familiar with the engine I stood back and watched. It has now become a hands-on learning experience. Kinda concerned about the VVT reassembly, will need to do some in-depth research to make certain the crank/cams relationship is correct and the absent mechanic hasn't moved things.

Onward through the fog! :wink:
 

Boink

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Egad.
OK, per another thread. Old engine out. New engine in. Bob's yer uncle. :cool:
 
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DrEntropy

DrEntropy

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DrEntropy

DrEntropy

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Egad.
OK, per another thread. Old engine out. New engine in. Bob's yer uncle. :cool:

If t'wer mine that would be the answer, Mark. Unfortunately the guy is "funding limited" right now, so it will be done at a pace and price, he has three kids and a wife to keep a roof over. He's got another car to drive for work so there's no panic to get this done.

The other ratty part of this story is; he was trying to sell the thing, took the prospective buyers on a demo ride when he missed the shift point... needless to say it was 'no sale'.
 

waltesefalcon

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Sintered parts are a major PITA in everything I've encountered them in. They should be outlawed.
 

vette

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A neighbor has a 2008 Infiniti G37, Somewhere in Japan an engine designer's ears should be aflame... :wink:

Don't remember where I got this picture, maybe here. But I sent it to all my engineering friends.
 

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Basil

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I am currently expanding my skill set (and my frustration) on my DIL's 2004 Grand Prix. It's throwing code that the heater circuit for the upstream O2 seasor is bad. R&R the O2 sensor - not joy. Checked integrity of the wiring - all seems good with good continuity. Replaced the ECM, still no joy. Going to be doing more thorough electrical tests today. The schematic shows that the O2 heater circuit goes through a fuse (it's good) but the fuse gets power from a "Power Train Relay." I'm starting to suspect maybe a bad ground or possibly that stupid relay is intermittent.
 

JPSmit

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I am currently expanding my skill set (and my frustration) on my DIL's 2004 Grand Prix. It's throwing code that the heater circuit for the upstream O2 seasor is bad. R&R the O2 sensor - not joy. Checked integrity of the wiring - all seems good with good continuity. Replaced the ECM, still no joy. Going to be doing more thorough electrical tests today. The schematic shows that the O2 heater circuit goes through a fuse (it's good) but the fuse gets power from a "Power Train Relay." I'm starting to suspect maybe a bad ground or possibly that stupid relay is intermittent.

Hey Boss, I watch Car Wizard and Hoovies garage (Don't judge me :smile: ) Car Wizard did a video of tips - all of which are good but at 20:53 he has purchased 'switched' relays which could help a lot here. Take a look

 

DavidApp

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A lot of good common sense ideas.

I use the paper in the socket trick a lot. Had not thought of super glue for the washers.

David
 

Boink

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Liked, early on, "Mrs. Wizard" saying "OW!" :wink-new:
 
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DrEntropy

DrEntropy

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So progress is sporadic, time/money are the arbiters. The lad just got the new OEM chain tensioner today and had the day off from work. Turns out the right bank cams had been left behind by about four teeth on the main chain with the over-rev and loss of oil pressure. got all back into alignment; guide rails, crank and cams. Tensioner in place and released to mechanically tighten the chain. Biggest challenge now will be to attempt to seal the intermediate oil pan to the block. Next session will be me on my back, car on jack-stands. Popsicle sticks and sealant, schmearing goo onto the mating surfaces with no easy access to most of it. Pan hangs about an inch below the block with little room to maneuver...

In the immortal words of Jacques Cousteau... "Once again we dive-ed below Calypso..."
 
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DrEntropy

DrEntropy

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Re: Expanding the skill set: UPDATE.

Pan was goobered up and put back into position last week, front cover placed. The original guy who disassembled this thing just piled fasteners wherever... it took way too much time trying to find the proper bolts for the various bolt-holes. Yesterday the stars aligned and the cooling system, fans and front-end bumper assembly were installed.

Initially, it would fire in the start position but fail to run. Throttle plates were stuck in the closed position, the motors couldn't overcome the six months of sitting static. Another neighbor brought his scan tool to get codes and tehGoogle machine led us to the discovery of the condition. Filled the coolant and had a leak at the rad bottom hose, the factory clamps are garbage. Replaced that with a band clamp and no more drip.

IT LIVES!! And better than that, no bent valves, no leaks! But now the alternator isn't charging. More to do but the main thing is that we have relief knowing it runs well.

Ever onward. :encouragement:
 
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