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Radiators , fans etc

radibob

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I moved to Florida last year (66 Sprite with a 1275)and have noticed I need more cooling especially at stop lights. I have a good "old" radiator. Not sure whether I should just go with an electric fan and call it done or replace the radiator too.
What has been the experience of other Hot weather state sprigiteers?
 

twas_brillig

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You might want to try adding Redline's Water Wetter. we use it in a couple of cars, but I can't comment as to whether or not it is truly magic. Doug
 

Jim_Gruber

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I've got a BE w 1,326 and Electric Fan set to turn on at 190 degrees. Thermostat set for 180 degrees opening. found that engine was varying at long stoplights, especially this time of year and fan cycling on/off. I did install one of those Canadian Radiators as well. Originally I still had the Mechanical Fan plus the Electric Fan et up as a Pusher. When I reinstalled engine after painting I used a different Rear Mount for my 210 tranny( I gained an inch of ground clearance BTW) which had the effect of bringing rear of tranny up and GR Started had more than 1/8" of clearance against the corner of the engine compartment. With different mount in place I could no longer keep the mechanical fan in place. I also installed a 160 degree thermostat, the need for heat in Tampa is slim and almost none even in January. I have yet to get engine wiring harness installed but this setup should handle just about anything without thermostat cycling and fan with Revotec Controller in lower hose cycling on and off. Whwn you turn off the engine, Electric Fan will kick on to cool down radiator temps down to at least below 180 degrees.

BTW Bob, where in FL did you move to. Hanging in Apollo Beach on the South Shore of Tampa.
 

SD Bugeye

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Check your state of tune,
Timing advance
it can make you run hot too
also make sure your radiator cap is the correct size
 

twas_brillig

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a couple of other housekeeping items, per SD Bugeye: pull the rad and get it flushed. Look into flushing the block and heater core. Close off the heater flap on the driver's side and open the one on the passenger side, and try driving it with the heater valve open and put the fan on when you need auxiiliary cooling. The 3000 guys used to turn the heaters on in real hot weather as absolutely necessary. If you try this trick, you should probably also put some form of sealing around the flap by your feet.
Creative Spridgets sells an adaptor to raise your thermostat and to provide a location for a temperature sensor in case that's of interest; he also has an article detailing the installation a VW Rabbit rad. Also test your thermostat some time: my memory is of tossing the thing into a pot of boiling water, pulling it out when the thermostat was opened and slipping a piece of string into the gap. Then suspending it over a pot of cold water along with a thermometer and seeing at what temperature it fell off the string. Advice from the past was also to run distilled water with water pump lubricant added as it was better at conducting heat than an anti-freeze mixture. Have fun. Doug
 

JPSmit

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a couple of other housekeeping items, per SD Bugeye: pull the rad and get it flushed. Look into flushing the block and heater core.

+1 - I had my rad rebuilt as well and they added another row - I have never had overheating issues in all kinds of weather.
 

Joe Schlosser

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I used a rabbit diesel radiator in my FP car. They take a but of work to fit but do work very well and are reasonably inexpensive.
Other guys used standard shape rads with extra rows with no problem
 
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