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TR2/3/3A Fuel Shutoff Valve

CJD

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Well, it's been a while since I posted a "how to" thread. This is one I've been meaning to get around to for quite some time...that leaky POS fuel valve the TR2 and early 3's came with. For those who have seen one, they use a plug of real cork to seal the fuel. I spent hours making a perfect cork when I rebuilt the valve, thinking that, like most things, if I did it right it would work and not leak. Well, it worked great...for about a year. I then had to adjust it to "bulge" the cork, as it was meant to be adjusted. That worked for another year, where it would leak if in the "on" position, so I had to open the bonnet and shut off the fuel when the car would sit for a while. Another year down the road the valve began leaking all the time, in all the positions, and no adjusting would help

The long term study...cork is never going to seal for long periods. It, like all wood, will swell and shrink. If it swells, it binds. If it shrinks, it leaks. Both are inevitable.

So here is the fix...

I obtained a lathe as a late life hobby. I thought about re-turning the entire valve piston, but decided, instead, to simply create a brass slug to take the place of the cork. It now uses O-rings to seal, which should last at least a decade longer than the cork did. The beauty is that a later FO could switch back to the cork, since no mods to the valve other than replacing the cork with the brass slug was done. Don't know why anyone would want to go back to cork...but the option is there.

2TOK8bz.jpg


Here is the cork plug shown with the new brass slug. Note it will take 3 O-rings to seal the gas from 2 sources plus the valve handle.

Fd9DJvS.jpg


Starting assembly, the adjuster goes through a small o-ring and then through the slug. This o-ring is needed to prevent gas from flowing up the adjuster rod to the handle center.

Z0xvGyc.jpg


2 larger 0-rings go on the outside of the slug. The upper seals to atmosphere. The lower splits the intake fuel from the outlet on the valve.

aTcmWfW.jpg


Here is the new complete piston assembly. Cork must have been REALLY cheap for Triumph not to use O-rings originally...or maybe they were too new?!? Note the L-shaped cutout. A screw from the main cylinder body enters the slot, both retaining the piston in the cylinder and allowing the piston to be turned to a "locked" position when open.

5pLdISq.jpg


Final assembly. The fuel comes in the bottom inlet, and passes out through the right inlet. So, when the piston assembly is down, it blocks the flow of fuel. When up...it allows fuel to pass.

0KB74OR.jpg

This is the shut-off mode...where you can see the slug blocking the outlet passage. The O-rings must be placed above and below the port.

MM9L7Vp.jpg


And the open mode, where the cylinder is raised to open the outlet port.

These valves were so bad originally that it is allowed to remove them from the car and still get 100 points. It's considered a "safety" item in judging. I would have just removed this one, but hey...it is nice having the ability to cut off the fuel to empty the filter bowl without getting doused with gas!

Now I can sleep peacefully, unconcerned that the air compressor kicking on could explode the house.
Chow!
 

M_Pied_Lourd

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Very nice as always John.

Cheers,
Tush
 

trrdster2000

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Very nice, wonder how many of those are still on the cars.
All of the SU's and Stromberg's needed on if they set around, the full tank would empty right into the crank case when the needle and set decide to let go.
I use a $5 in line lawn mower cut off on the GT6 and TR6 as they had no provisions like the early TR's.
You might have to go in production on that little item, looks great.
 

sp53

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Nice one. How difficult was it to turn the initial piece of stalk down to size and then when cutting the groves did the material chunk away or peel nice?
steve
 
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CJD

CJD

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It was a breeze to cut. The most time was spent trying to decide how deep to groove the O-rings. I am sure that answer is in the machinist's handbook somewhere, but machining is still new to me. Anyway...I'd be happy to cut slugs for anyone who thinks they could use them...so long as you're not in a hurry.
 

ckeithjordan

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John,

I'd love to have one and be willing to pay for the brass stock and your time!

It was a breeze to cut. The most time was spent trying to decide how deep to groove the O-rings. I am sure that answer is in the machinist's handbook somewhere, but machining is still new to me. Anyway...I'd be happy to cut slugs for anyone who thinks they could use them...so long as you're not in a hurry.
 

ckeithjordan

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PM sent, John. Thanks!
 
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CJD

CJD

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Wow...more of these valves still around than I would have expected. So far I have:

Chuck, Rick, Kieth, and Steve. I've got some metal on the way and will get to them as soon as I can sneak away from the Holiday Family!?! I'll let you guys know for sure, but I think about $10 should cover the materials and mailing, just for planning. Don't send anything until I get them in the mail, though.

And please keep in mind that these are prototypes. I assume they will work and last a long time, but I just installed mine, so if you want to wait to be sure mine keeps working, I will understand. Also, if there is any trouble with what I send, as far as fit, just let me know and I'll "fix" it. I always worry with Triumphs that there are wide tolerances on factory parts, like the cylinder. But I'll be happy to adjust the "new" lathe to whatever size your valve cylinder turns out to be. Like our cars, I say new, but I think my lathe is a 1960 model too!
 

luke44

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Simple and brilliant. Put me down for one too. Just pm me the cost along with your email address and I’ll PayPal you. Thanks, Bruce
 
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CJD

CJD

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And Tim and Andrew...

This has kinda turned into my parts clean out 3 years ago. I was finishing up the car and, while planning a trip to the recycle yard, I decided on a whim to offer the leftover parts for the cost of shipping. Instead of the 1 or 2 takers I expected, I wound up shipping parts for a whole month!

I’ll keep taking orders until I get the brass in to make them. That should be in about a week. After that I will shut down my production line, but will publish the plans on this thread. Anyone with a mini-lathe should be able to turn these out pretty easily...
 

martx-5

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After that I will shut down my production line, but will publish the plans on this thread. Anyone with a mini-lathe should be able to turn these out pretty easily...

That's great John. I'll be looking forward to see the plans. I'd like to give this a go on my son's 3D printer.
 

Tr3aguy

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Wow John great to see a solution to an age old problem. I figured it would be from you. Nice close up pictures BTW. Hey I am working a new schedule which affords me every Friday off and the wife has given the green light on how much I can put toward the project every month. :encouragement: So during the holidays I am filling out the wish list and reorganizing tools. Hopefully someone payed attention and got me some of the tools I circled in a catalog. Time will tell.
I would like to be on your Christmas list as well, aka valve parts...… Merry Christmas and I only say that because I am christian.
 
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