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New to me 1972 but not new to MGB

B72Blue

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Hello Everyone, My name is Alon, I'm in Southern California, and I am the proud owner of a basket case non running 1972 MGB that I bought for $500 a week ago as a project that I am compelled to save. This is my I'm turning 45 in February and I need a project car because well I haven't had one. The way I see it so far the car cost me less than a new Golf Driver. So Cannot complain there.

I am not new to MGB, as I had a 1980 B when I was 18, and drove the car for a couple of years before it was totaled in an accident by someone running a stop sign and ran into me. I've missed the car ever since and that was around 26 years ago. The 1980 I had was a fantastic little car and ran great and I really had hardly any issues with it.

The car has been off the road for 20 years, so yes its got some sill rust, and yes its got stuff not connected, but the car is pretty much 100% complete and on my initial inspection feels very solid as far as the body goes, apart from the rusty rear sill areas. no sagging, shocks feel good when pushing down on the car, and it cranks so its not frozen. Its got a top frame with no header and no top, but its got a nice tonneau cover. So thats something I will need to address at some point too.

I always wanted a 70 to 73 model and when I came across this I had to get it. I bought it knowing it needs tons of work and it is my project to bring back to life and enjoy. It has some rust repair that will be needed, new interior, lots of cleaning, paint, new top, tires, etc. and a good going through, but the car is all there and the overall body is very straight. It is only missing a few small bits, but it did come with a bunch of parts some being brand new rubber pieces and such and others being mechanical bits and pieces.

I bought it with a no spark issue, but I believe the issue could be deeper than that as it has quite a few things that are not connected in the engine as far as hoses and carb area go, but the engine turns over freely. It has brand new cap, rotor, points, condenser. I picked up the car and haven't had a chance to look at it as I have simply been researching and I felt I would start a post to introduce myself as I will most likely be asking lots of questions and posting pictures to get some help from everyone here. I suspect the points and condenser are shorted on the post as on an initial check I did, it looks like it may be. I plan on doing the full ignition checklist to eliminate what works and what doesn't and go from there. once I have spark I can move to the next job to tackle.

I will need to resolve the no spark issue before I do anything else so I haven't even started ordering any parts for it. well not really ordering, but I have ordered a few small things just because (hey crested MG keys are ok to order right?). I plan on following the diagnostic tree I have found online, and plan on starting with checking the wiring to the coil and points first to ensure there are no issues there. then I will move to checking the coil if the wiring is ok and see if I can get the coil to bench fire then I will look into the vehicle wiring itself. the car has a ton of spare parts it came with, and the plugs, cap, rotor points and condenser are all new and there are a few extra spares with the car.

After I fix the spark issue, I will need to address the fuel system. I am sure I will need to replace the fuel tank or at least remove it and clean it out, possibly do a rust removal and sealer on it. I will also most likely need to replace the fuel lines as well.

I will also need to address the carburetor and will need to find instructions and parts to get the linkage tied into the accelerator cable and choke cable. Most likely it will need a rebuild as it is a weber DGV. The car also came with the original twin SU carbs and manifold in a box, so I am contemplating putting those back on in place of the weber. I really want to end up with a car that runs and drives well for a nice weekend drive or to take out whenever I feel up to it.

I will also need to go through the brakes and clutch to ensure they will function. If all that works and the car is running, I;ll then go buy some tires for it, after I respray the wheels.

Its going to need a ton of work and I am ready to put my blood, sweat and tears into it to get it up and running and then tackle the cosmetics and the rust issues. It will need the sills to be done, but the rest of the body is actually in good shape apart from paint.

My plans for the car is to get it running and driving safely, and then start bodywork. once the body rust is fixed up and I have primed and blocked out the body, I plan to paint it either myself with a portable paint booth and a sprayer, or just get it done at a bodyshop. I have been contemplating how I want it and I am leaning towards a nice Navy Blue exterior and going with autumn leaf interior which is what it has currently though all beat up and destroyed. (it is originally blue with autumn leaf interior so I think it will look amazing in navy blue versus the blue it is now)

So sorry about this very long post, I look forward to spending time on here getting to know some of you and more importantly getting help when I need it to bring this car back to life.

The car is a project and I couldn't be happier with this Little Gloriously Rusty Basket Case of an MGB. Just hope the wife doesn't find out I bought it until its back on the road.... Just kidding of course. but no not kidding. The plan is to get it back on the road and looking nice not perfect but nice, and take her away for the weekend as a surprise and introduce her to the car, top down up the coast or down the coast for . little weekend getaway. Cant tell the kids about it either because well they got loose lips.

Some pics


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Mickey Richaud

Moderator
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Welcome, Alon - great story!

So, where are you hiding this little gem 'til you get things sorted out?

The '72 is a great choice, and I see the elusive grill trim for the hood is there - don't lose that!

You'll no doubt receive lots of suggestions; my only one is to go with the SU carbs if you can. Once dialed in, they almost never need any attention other than keeping oil in the dashpots. And, well, they just look proper.

Pop over on to the MG side and keep us posted!

:cheers:
Mickey

Oh yeah - one more thing: if you haven't already discovered it, here's a wonderful checklist for bringing it back to life: http://tidentenn.com/pdf/AWAKENING A SLEEPING MGB CHECKLIST.pdf

And you'll need this for wiring - diagrams for all years: http://www.advanceautowire.com/mgb.pdf
 
OP
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B72Blue

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Hi Mickey, Thanks so much for the kind words of encouragement.

The car is stored at my dads house since nobody lives there as he is going through an insurance fight over flooding that occurred in his house due to some water pipes that broke while he was on vacation. And I am the only one that goes there to work on my cars so should be no problem for me to keep it hidden for a while so I can unveil it as a surprise hopefully in a few months.

The reason I loved this car is that it is almost 100% complete, and has almost all of the bits.

It has the original SU carbs that came in a box with tons of other little bits some new some old. so I will def be looking to put the SU carbs back on.

Funny you posted those links as I have been collecting information for a week on how to begin with this and I got that check list printed and the wiring schematics as well already.

You seem to be well versed in these cars, so I am sure I will be making posts with pictures of issues that will need to be addressed and I am sure there will be some guidance needed.


Welcome, Alon - great story!

So, where are you hiding this little gem 'til you get things sorted out?

The '72 is a great choice, and I see the elusive grill trim for the hood is there - don't lose that!

You'll no doubt receive lots of suggestions; my only one is to go with the SU carbs if you can. Once dialed in, they almost never need any attention other than keeping oil in the dashpots. And, well, they just look proper.

Pop over on to the MG side and keep us posted!

:cheers:
Mickey

Oh yeah - one more thing: if you haven't already discovered it, here's a wonderful checklist for bringing it back to life: http://tidentenn.com/pdf/AWAKENING A SLEEPING MGB CHECKLIST.pdf

And you'll need this for wiring - diagrams for all years: http://www.advanceautowire.com/mgb.pdf
 

YakkoWarner

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Deja Vu - I bought a 70 B about a decade ago - the rust made it unsavable but it was all there and the engine ran (once I connected the carbs to an sailboat outboard fuel tank and used the primer bulb as a fuel pump since the whole fuel system was full of rust and flood water). I'm still going at it - I'm having to do a full body transplant into a 1973 rolling shell I bought just over a year ago. Finishing up new floorpans and such on that body now and then I start putting all the 1970's "stuff" into it. So its going to be titled/registered as a 1973 but be a 1970 in all but name (and yes I was able to save the split rear bumper and brackets off the 1970 to put on).

Check that sill rust carefully - that section that runs under the door is absolutely structural - there is no "frame" as such other than that tubular steel assembly. Good news is all the sheet metal is readily available from multiple sources if you need to do replacement.

I second the going back to SU's. I had 2 MGBs in the past with the Weber on them - they ran well at speed but always had a little throttle response hesitation at lower RPM and just never seemed to have the accelleration I got used to with the SU's. Put the SU's back on, tweaked them up and was happy again. A lot of people like the Weber conversion - you have both so you can try them for yourself and choose what works for you.
 
OP
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B72Blue

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Now thats what I call determination. The car I got is actually pretty sound apart from the sill area. floors etc all very solid and looks good underneath from what I initially inspected.

I will put the SU's back on and once it is running, I'll sell the weber most likely.

Can't wait to get started on this thing, going to be . a little while as my time is crazy busy, but I'll get to it sooner than later.

Problem is when a client needs me, well there goes any free time. lately lots of clients needing my help so thats good for my wallet, but not good for me working on the car.

Either way I like the idea of the sailboat tank. I may try something similar when the time comes.

Deja Vu - I bought a 70 B about a decade ago - the rust made it unsavable but it was all there and the engine ran (once I connected the carbs to an sailboat outboard fuel tank and used the primer bulb as a fuel pump since the whole fuel system was full of rust and flood water). I'm still going at it - I'm having to do a full body transplant into a 1973 rolling shell I bought just over a year ago. Finishing up new floorpans and such on that body now and then I start putting all the 1970's "stuff" into it. So its going to be titled/registered as a 1973 but be a 1970 in all but name (and yes I was able to save the split rear bumper and brackets off the 1970 to put on).

Check that sill rust carefully - that section that runs under the door is absolutely structural - there is no "frame" as such other than that tubular steel assembly. Good news is all the sheet metal is readily available from multiple sources if you need to do replacement.

I second the going back to SU's. I had 2 MGBs in the past with the Weber on them - they ran well at speed but always had a little throttle response hesitation at lower RPM and just never seemed to have the accelleration I got used to with the SU's. Put the SU's back on, tweaked them up and was happy again. A lot of people like the Weber conversion - you have both so you can try them for yourself and choose what works for you.
 
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