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Thread: changing lock barrels

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    Jedi Warrior red57's Avatar
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    changing lock barrels

    Hi all, I hope someone has done this and can help.

    I found, after getting a Heritage Certificate for my '60 BT7, that it still had the original ingition lock with numbers that match the Cert. (the original key also has the same lock number stamped in it) and the same key works in the trunk lock - good news!
    IMG_2625.jpg

    Bad news is the ignition lock body has been damaged by excessive heat and needs to be replaced, the other bad news is the trunk handle chrome is bad and the escutcheon is cracked so it also needs to be replaced.

    Changing the lock barrel in the ignition is easy - with key in lock & turned on, there is a small brass button seen thru a hole in the lock body that you push and the cylinder slides out.

    IMG_2622.jpg

    My problem is I there is no hole that I can see in the side of the trunk lock to press a pin inside - does anyone know how to change the lock barrel in the trunk lock? Do I have to grind the 'pinches' off the square shaft and remove the escutcheon to find a hole to access a pin? And, if I grind the 'pinches' off to disassemble, how di I re-assemble? I don't mind destroying the old handle and escutcheon to get the old lock barrel out but will I be able to reassemble the new latch and escutcheon with the old lock barrel in place?
    IMG_2627.jpg

    I really would like to keep the original key that matches the Cert. and keep both locks keyed the same. I appreciate any help.

    Thanks,
    Dave

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    Yoda John Turney's Avatar
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    Re: changing lock barrels

    There is a pin under the cup that is held in place by those pinches. That's the "key" to getting everything apart. My friend replaced the pinches with tack welds to reassemble.
    John, BN4

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    Jedi Warrior red57's Avatar
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    Re: changing lock barrels

    Thanks John, I though there might be a pin but wasn't ready to destroy the old one just yet. Tack welds make sense to me

    Thanks again,
    Dave

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    Senior Member Jake's Avatar
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    Re: changing lock barrels

    I posted a few pictures of the disassembled mechanism here.

    https://www.ahexp.com/forum/the-100-...cement.209147/

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    Re: changing lock barrels

    Hi, Thanks to John Turney's info above, I was able to disassemble my old boot/trunk lock (new one is on the way). I thought I would post a picture of the internals with my observations in case someone else ever needs to replace theirs and wants to keep it keyed the same as the ignition. Other than John's response I found no information on how to disassemble so I laid it out and took this picture to show the details (warning - I'm no Randy when it comes to photo-documentation )
    IMG_2638.jpg
    After grinding down the 'pinches' in the 5/16" square shaft, the steel cup comes off and behind it there is a steel spring washer and two slightly conical brass washers, then the escutcheon.

    The handle with lock simply slides out of the escutcheon.

    You can see two pins, the left one in the picture holds the square shaft in (and doesn't need to be removed, but I didn't know that until after I had removed it). This pin is knurled on one end and in tis case the knurled end was on the bottom as things lay in this picture which would be the left side when on the car (don't know if they all went together this way or if it even matters).

    The pin on the right is the one that holds the lock barrel in it is brass and is not tapered so it can go in & be tapped out either direction. You can see the groove at the left end of the lock barrel where the brass pin rides to prevent the lock barrel falling out. At the very left tip of the lock barrel, the small pin extending to the left rides in the slot in the lock plunger

    I hope this may help someone else someday.

    Dave

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    Jedi Warrior red57's Avatar
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    Re: changing lock barrels

    I see Jake posted the same info while I was typing
    Dave

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    Re: changing lock barrels

    Dave,
    Instead of tack welds to replace the "pinches", would drilling the square shaft and fitting a roll pin be an option?

    Edit: or a cotter pin
    Last edited by steveg; 11-10-2019 at 01:58 AM.
    Steve Gerow
    Altadena, CA, USA
    Maker of most complete Big Healey rear disc kit
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    Jedi Warrior red57's Avatar
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    Re: changing lock barrels

    Steve,
    Good idea, a roll pin should be a good option - I don't think there is anything close enough to interfere but I will check.

    Thanks,
    Dave

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