Changing Lock Barrels

Hi all, I hope someone has done this and can help.

I found, after getting a Heritage Certificate for my '60 BT7, that it still had the original ingition lock with numbers that match the Cert. (the original key also has the same lock number stamped in it) and the same key works in the trunk lock - good news!


Bad news is the ignition lock body has been damaged by excessive heat and needs to be replaced, the other bad news is the trunk handle chrome is bad and the escutcheon is cracked so it also needs to be replaced.

Changing the lock barrel in the ignition is easy - with key in lock & turned on, there is a small brass button seen thru a hole in the lock body that you push and the cylinder slides out.



My problem is I there is no hole that I can see in the side of the trunk lock to press a pin inside - does anyone know how to change the lock barrel in the trunk lock? Do I have to grind the 'pinches' off the square shaft and remove the escutcheon to find a hole to access a pin? And, if I grind the 'pinches' off to disassemble, how di I re-assemble? I don't mind destroying the old handle and escutcheon to get the old lock barrel out but will I be able to reassemble the new latch and escutcheon with the old lock barrel in place?


I really would like to keep the original key that matches the Cert. and keep both locks keyed the same. I appreciate any help.

Thanks,
Dave

There is a pin under the cup that is held in place by those pinches. That's the "key" to getting everything apart. My friend replaced the pinches with tack welds to reassemble.

Thanks John, I though there might be a pin but wasn't ready to destroy the old one just yet. Tack welds make sense to me

Thanks again,
Dave

I posted a few pictures of the disassembled mechanism here.

https://www.ahexp.com/forum/the-100-forum.4/trunk-lock-replacement.209147/

Hi, Thanks to John Turney's info above, I was able to disassemble my old boot/trunk lock (new one is on the way). I thought I would post a picture of the internals with my observations in case someone else ever needs to replace theirs and wants to keep it keyed the same as the ignition. Other than John's response I found no information on how to disassemble so I laid it out and took this picture to show the details (warning - I'm no Randy when it comes to photo-documentation )

After grinding down the 'pinches' in the 5/16" square shaft, the steel cup comes off and behind it there is a steel spring washer and two slightly conical brass washers, then the escutcheon.

The handle with lock simply slides out of the escutcheon.

You can see two pins, the left one in the picture holds the square shaft in (and doesn't need to be removed, but I didn't know that until after I had removed it). This pin is knurled on one end and in tis case the knurled end was on the bottom as things lay in this picture which would be the left side when on the car (don't know if they all went together this way or if it even matters).

The pin on the right is the one that holds the lock barrel in it is brass and is not tapered so it can go in & be tapped out either direction. You can see the groove at the left end of the lock barrel where the brass pin rides to prevent the lock barrel falling out. At the very left tip of the lock barrel, the small pin extending to the left rides in the slot in the lock plunger

I hope this may help someone else someday.

Dave

I see Jake posted the same info while I was typing
Dave

Dave,
Instead of tack welds to replace the "pinches", would drilling the square shaft and fitting a roll pin be an option?

Edit: or a cotter pin

Steve,
Good idea, a roll pin should be a good option - I don't think there is anything close enough to interfere but I will check.

Thanks,
Dave

red57 said:

Hi all, I hope someone has done this and can help.

I found, after getting a Heritage Certificate for my '60 BT7, that it still had the original ingition lock with numbers that match the Cert. (the original key also has the same lock number stamped in it) and the same key works in the trunk lock - good news!
View attachment 61191

Bad news is the ignition lock body has been damaged by excessive heat and needs to be replaced, the other bad news is the trunk handle chrome is bad and the escutcheon is cracked so it also needs to be replaced.

Changing the lock barrel in the ignition is easy - with key in lock & turned on, there is a small brass button seen thru a hole in the lock body that you push and the cylinder slides out.

View attachment 61190

My problem is I there is no hole that I can see in the side of the trunk lock to press a pin inside - does anyone know how to change the lock barrel in the trunk lock? Do I have to grind the 'pinches' off the square shaft and remove the escutcheon to find a hole to access a pin? And, if I grind the 'pinches' off to disassemble, how di I re-assemble? I don't mind destroying the old handle and escutcheon to get the old lock barrel out but will I be able to reassemble the new latch and escutcheon with the old lock barrel in place?
View attachment 61192

I really would like to keep the original key that matches the Cert. and keep both locks keyed the same. I appreciate any help.

Thanks,
Dave

Click to expand...

Thank you.
I bought the set of 5 matching locks and handles on Moss Motors. I needed to know how to switch the ignition key cylinder. I will simply switch out the glove box, doors, and boot. Appreciate these photos and instruction.

BigGreen said:

View attachment 87516

Click to expand...

I drilled a 3/32" hole and used a 3/32 cotter pin here. It held very well.

steveg said:

Dave,
Instead of tack welds to replace the "pinches", would drilling the square shaft and fitting a roll pin be an option?

Edit: or a cotter pin

Click to expand...

I used a 3/32" hole and cotter pin here.

Gatheringtree said:

Thank you.
I bought the set of 5 matching locks and handles on Moss Motors. I needed to know how to switch the ignition key cylinder. I will simply switch out the glove box, doors, and boot. Appreciate these photos and instruction.

Click to expand...

Gatheringtree said:

HEADS UP: the supposedly-matching handle (from Moss Motor) for the Triumph TR3 boot has the wrong hole spacing. The space between the holes is off by about 3/32". This was just beyond redrilling and countersinking the base. Besides this would mess up chrome. What I had to do was re-used the old base, which was in decent condition. But then, the new square turning pose was too short to engage the lock. This was because, coupled, with the old base, shortened the length of the square rod. Therefore, I had to cut off a small piece of the old square turning post and attach them together with a 3/4" long 10-32 machine screw. I got it working, but it is a bit of a rickety mess. I need to go back and use a strong lock-tite to make the connection between the square posts more solid. Disappointing, however, I do not know any other source to get a new boot handle. (I have not exchanged the door handles yet, and only hope that the holes line up there as well.

Click to expand...

could you not make a longer square bar, I dont know the size but possibly a household handle may be the same size

mezy said:

could you not make a longer square bar, I dont know the size but possibly a household handle may be the same size

Click to expand...

That is very possible. The hardware store may also carry square rod. I'll check both before taking this to get welded or pulling out my 110V wireless welder. Thanks