• The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
  • Hey there Guest!
    If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Tips
Tips

Lever Shock Oil Level

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
Country flag
Offline
Hello,

Seems almost every time I drive over railroad tracks, the rear shocks can't seem to handle the travel and I get a bang sound.
I remember this sound when my dad had his Healey. Is this common or is it time for new shocks?

When pushing down on the front and rear wings and they seem to travel and return at the same pace and distance, level out after a couple times. (I think the front shocks are fine, but if they are also worn out, then this comparison is no good.)

Before I remove the rear shocks and send them out to be rebuilt, I thought I'd ask here about adding oil. The rear shocks are not leaking.
I removed the top fill plug and slid a wire down. The wire bottomed out at about 1 1/4" No oil on the wire. If I move the wire around a bit, it will get past what ever is stopping it and 1/4" deeper I hit oil.

Where is the oil suppose to top out from the plug?
If it is low on oil, how can that be, if it shows no sign of leaking?

Could this be as simple as adding straight SAE 20w oil?
If so, how far down below the fill plug?

Thanks you.
 

Bob_Spidell

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Check the mounting bolts; the banging sound is almost certainly coming from a loose bolt (or bolts). If your shock was properly filled, doesn't leak and performs properly it shouldn't need oil. They should be filled to about the bottom of the shoulder of the top plate; i.e. you need some head space.

Edit: Sounds like your shock is low; but check the bolts before doing anything.
 
OP
AUSMHLY

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
Country flag
Offline
Thank you Bob.

All bolts are tight.
Where is the... bottom of the shoulder of the top plate?

Red line, Blue line?
Black line shows were the oil level is.
I think the bang is from the axle hitting the frame.
IMG_2717.jpgIMG_2717 2.jpgIMG_2717 3.jpgIMG_2718.jpg

When you say shock is low, as in not set up right? Unit gets bolted, but maybe the arm is not attached correctly?
 

Bob_Spidell

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Blue line (or a little bit higher if you want). Put some oil in and see if the banging stops; if it leaks it's rebuild time (if not, Bob's your uncle). I use Moss's Armstrong shock oil, but others report good results with fork or jack oil.
 
OP
AUSMHLY

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
Country flag
Offline
Would I be correct in assuming low oil would allow longer travel distance, hence axle hits the frame?
 

steveg

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Offline
The axle hits the rubber pad in your last pic. Shouldn't be any banging. It would only do this if the suspension were "topping". I think that would be unusual.

Since we know the shock oil is low while the bolts are tight, low oil is likely the problem. Fill it up to just below the threads of the filler plug.
 
OP
AUSMHLY

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
Country flag
Offline
Steve, maybe because of the excess shock travel, the axle is hitting either the top bump stop or pad on the frame. The bang is not a metal to metal sound. I'm sure it's one of the bump stops. One can feel it in the car. Pretty significant.

Hoping one or both of the rear shocks are low on oil, as that's an easy fix. Still, curious why it's low, if there's no sigh of leaking.
 

Bob_Spidell

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Offline
If you have the car on a lift, or jackstands, unbolt the link at the top, and work the shock lever up and down, before and after you top up. Maybe, if you note more resistance after the top-up you won't need to pull the shock and send it off (watch for leaks)?

Note I haven't done this exact procedure--it's easier to test on the bench--but I think it would work.

Edit: Now that I think about it, you'll probably have to unbolt the link entirely (still easier than pulling the shock, though only slightly so).
 
OP
AUSMHLY

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
Country flag
Offline
Moss sells "Shock Fluid", 16oz. After tax and shipping it costs about $25.
Not sure what the Moss product is, or it's weight.

Healey Workshop Manual says use SAE 20w oil.

It's mentioned on forums that hydraulic jack oil can be used. However hydraulic jack oil comes in different weights, most being 5-10w and not all bottles list the weight, so it takes a little research to find that information.

CRC Sta-Lube hydraulic jack oil, SAE 20w, 15oz. Part number SL2621. Priced locally at shocking low $6.
BAEB1D96-EE37-4DC8-B146-8250A58D3A82.jpeg53437992-1CF4-4108-A81C-9D0C3E0E13D1.jpg

CRC Sta-Lube.
http://api.crcindustries.com/auto-services/get-pds/SL2621
 
OP
AUSMHLY

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
Country flag
Offline
Both rear shocks were down oil. I filled them up to 1/2" below filler screw thread.

I checked the fronts to find when I put a rod into the top screw filler plug and it hit the top of the (piston mechanism?) no oil. I'll assume that one is low too?
Do I fill the fronts same as the rear, 1/2" below filler screw thread?
 

Bob_Spidell

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Offline
1/4-1/2" should be fine. You just need head room for expansion.

Has anyone ever asked Peter Caldwell what he recommends/uses for shock oil?
 

Editor_Reid

Moderator
Staff member
Platinum
Country flag
Offline
If your lever-arm shocks are feeling perhaps somewhat worn or even worn out, is it worth trying a little thicker oil in them before throwing in the towel and sending them out for rebuild or installing new ones?
 

steveg

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Both rear shocks were down oil. I filled them up to 1/2" below filler screw thread.

I checked the fronts to find when I put a rod into the top screw filler plug and it hit the top of the (piston mechanism?) no oil. I'll assume that one is low too?
Do I fill the fronts same as the rear, 1/2" below filler screw thread?

Any resolution on the "bang" sound?
 

twas_brillig

Jedi Knight
Country flag
Offline
Have a look at the AH Spares site: when you check for shock absorber oil, one of the products is Castrol, and the photo shows Castrol Automatic Transmission Fluid TQ-F 1747 1 Litre. Doug
 
OP
AUSMHLY

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
Country flag
Offline
After filling one of the rear shocks, I had put too much oil in. I removed some of the oil to find it was blackish. So I drained all the oil, too black. Most likely the rubber is disintegrating, so it'll need rebuilding. Drained other rear shock, oil was clear. Since I'm rebuilding one, best to rebuild both. Neither rear shocks were leaking. Checked oil level in both front shocks, they were low, noticed both shocks were leaking. Front and rear shocks will be sent to WWA to be rebuilt. Will post results when I get them installed. Thanks for your help and the follow up Steve.
 
OP
AUSMHLY

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
Country flag
Offline
I received the 4 shocks back from WWA. I Put them on the bench to test them. One front shock doesn't have much resistance. I raised the arms on both front shocks to the top, released them at the same time to let them fall on their own. Shock with little resistance; the arms dropped in 18 seconds. Other shock, the arms didn't moved during that time. Rear shocks, raised the arms to the top, they stay there, don't drop on their own. What would cause the front shock to drop so quickly, 18 seconds? Air trapped inside from shipping? Will it get stiffer (the resistance it's suppose to have) from being active on the vehicle? One thing I find interesting is the shock that drops it's arms, the filler bolt (no marking on head) seems to be welded closed? Other plug CSF on the other front shock has a washer.

IMG_2789.jpgIMG_2792.jpg
 
Last edited:

Bob_Spidell

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Doesn't sound right to me; call or email Peter at WWA and ask him. WWA is considered the best in the business, I'd hate to think they're 'slipping.'
 

BJ8Healeys

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
Thank you Bob.

All bolts are tight.
Where is the... bottom of the shoulder of the top plate?

Red line, Blue line?
Black line shows were the oil level is.
I think the bang is from the axle hitting the frame.
View attachment 61078View attachment 61079View attachment 61080View attachment 61081

When you say shock is low, as in not set up right? Unit gets bolted, but maybe the arm is not attached correctly?

I agree with Bob about loose rear shock mount bolts causing the banging noise when you hit a bump. That happened to me many years ago, and not again after tightening until it occurred during our post-Conclave tour of the northern states after the recent Conclave in South Dakota. Everything was fine until we got off the Lake Michigan ferry on the Michigan side. The roads from there down to the Indiana state line were atrocious, and almost rattled my teeth. When we got to smoother roads, I heard the familiar banging in my left ear at each rough spot. The bolts don't have to be totally loose to cause the shock noise, but should be really tight or the shock can move on a bump. Not only did the rough roads cause the rear shocks to loosen, but it also caused the steering gearbox to leak temporarily. Same thing happened on the washboard dirt road to the top of Pikes Peak in 2002.
Unlike Bob, I have always filled my shocks to the top of the hole and have not yet had a shock leak or other problem with them. In their location, it's hard to see the level of fluid at anything below the top. When filled, it'll form a meniscus that causes the next drop to "roll off". After the 4,709-mile roundtrip to Conclave, I re-serviced my BJ8, and the shocks were still at the same level as when I left home.
 
Last edited:
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
Celtic 77 General MG Lever shock oil refiller MG 0
K TR2/3/3A Harley Davidson shock oil for Lever shocks? Triumph 3
J lever shock oil Triumph 7
Gliderman8 TR6 Lever shock noise Triumph 18
RJS General TR Lever Shock - HD Shock Valve Triumph 2
D TR4/4A stubborn lever shock link Triumph 2
Jim_Gruber BE Rear Tube Shock Brackets Available to Trade for BE Rear Lever Arm Bracket Spridgets 2
T TR2/3/3A Before and after lever shock absorber pictures Triumph 12
T Function - Armstrong Lever Arm Shock Spridgets 2
T Filling an Armstrong Lever Arm Shock Spridgets 0
RJS TR4/4A Lever Shock Fluid Level Triumph 1
K TR2/3/3A Testing a TR3 lever shock? Triumph 7
K TR2/3/3A Rebuilding a TR3 Lever Shock DIY? Triumph 8
K Lever shock upgrade? Racing 5
K TR2/3/3A TR3 lever shock upgrade? Triumph 4
KVH Rear Lever Shock Help Triumph 6
M rear lever shock? Triumph 21
John_Mc Lever shock fluid Triumph 19
JPSmit Lever shock cleaning question Restoration & Tools 5
S TR2/3/3A tr3 lever shock Triumph 0
M MGA MGA: Lever arm rebuild or aftermarket shock MG 3
vping Anybody ever rebuild a lever arm shock? MG 23
T TR6 TR6 Rear lever shock rebuild: Triumph 3
John_Mc Lever shock maintenance Triumph 7
Shinsen774 My Left Front Lever Shock is Leaking MG 11
T Lever shock question Triumph 20
middleagecrazy Front Lever shock arm Spridgets 12
jcatnite Lever Shock Question Spridgets 2
T Lever Shock Maintenance Triumph 7
T Lever Shock Diagnostics? Triumph 12
T TR4/4A Early TR4 - Lever Shock Absorber Fluid Triumph 2
B TR4/4A AC Fuel Pump Priming Lever Stuck Triumph 10
D TR2/3/3A 59 TR3A Gearbox lever will not move. Triumph 11
mctriumph For Sale lever shocks from a 61 Morgan plus 4 Other British Classifieds 0
S Gear Shift Lever Travel Austin Healey 13
CARSINC For Sale Sprite Shift Lever Spridgets Classified 0
shadowfever Seat runner with lever Spridgets 2
R RIB CASE SHIFT LEVER Spridgets 0
R Wanted BUGEYE SHIFT LEVER Spridgets Classified 6
TR3MT TR2/3/3A Hot Gear Shift Lever Triumph 12
K TR2/3/3A Problem with the gear lever "anti rattle fix"..... Triumph 10
DocDup1 Wanted TR4A Accelerator Linkage Lever Triumph Classifieds 0
S Removing Overdrive Shaft Lever Pin Austin Healey 7
K Missing spring clutch release lever Other British Classifieds 1
T TR2/3/3A TR3A rack & pinion conversion question - solution for horn & directional lever Triumph 2
D For sale. TR3A Bellcrank Pivot and lever. Triumph Classifieds 2
71TR6 TR2/3/3A AC Fuel Pump Lever Triumph 10
S CHROME RING, shift lever grommet ....? Austin Healey 3
T Ribcase Shift Lever Installation -Bushing Spridgets 1
R TR2/3/3A Transmission Lever Assembly Triumph 9

Similar threads

Top