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100/6 tuning and suspension ugrades advice

Leew

Senior Member
Offline
I have a pretty standard 58 100/6 which I've owned for a couple of years.
I've done very little to it other than a general service of the carbs, plugs and points
I've installed a new exhaust, as well as seat belts a roof and some heatshield
I also had the gearbox and overdrive rebuilt by Hardy engineering in Leatherhead
I think it time I start to improve the handling and performance
I was thinking to uprate the rear springs to the Dennis Welch 8 leaf spring as well as change the front shock absorbers https://www.bighealey.co.uk/performance-parts/austin-healey/healey-suspension/rear-suspension
https://www.bighealey.co.uk/performance-parts/austin-healey/healey-suspension/rear-suspension?page=2
I was also thinking to change the distributor and add some nice new plug leads https://www.bighealey.co.uk/perform...l-with-tacho-non-vac-positive-earth-celi102ep
https://www.bighealey.co.uk/perform...on/silicone-plug-lead-set-6-cyl-black-celi153
However, I am open to suggestions
I'm a weekend driver, but do like to run it on the edge, even though we live in a nanny state nowadays where driving at speed is concerned
Any comments and thoughts appreciated
L
 

DerekJ

Luke Skywalker
Country flag
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It’s not entirely clear what your aim is. Are you trying to improve the handling, the performance or both? In isolation I see no point in updating the rear springs in a normal road car. Replacing the distributor, if it is working properly also seems to be unnecessary.

A simple and cheap handling upgrade is to lower the front suspension with spacers and fit a thicker anti roll bar, but I would first decide exactly what it is you are trying to achieve, a fast road car set up for instance.
 

John Turney

Yoda
Silver
Country flag
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Here's the upgrades I have done to my '57 100/6 (BN4). It came with a 3000 engine, but everything would apply to the 2.6L.
Performance:
  • Denis Welch fast road aluminum head with compression set for 91 octane (US)
  • Denis Welch DW8 cam & tappets. This requires pockets in the top of the block for valve clearance.
  • Denis Welch aluminum oil pan
  • Oil cooler
  • BJ8 intake manifold with two HD8 SU carbs
  • Crane electronic ignition
  • Recored radiator (an aluminum radiator would probably be less expensive now)
  • Rally vents to exit hot air
  • Exhaust headers
  • Side exit exhaust
  • Disc brakes all around with separate front & rear circuits (Nissan 1200 tandem master cylinder, Girling 16PE in front and Jaguar in rear. If you do this, ask Steve about how to make the parking brake work again.)
  • Move overdrive switch to gearshift knob. (Put headlight dip switch in place of old overdrive switch and put dead pedal in place of old dip switch.)

Handling:
  • Lowered front by ~3/4"
  • Denis Welch front heavier anti-sway bar, 7/8" IIRC
  • Polyurethane bushings for the anti-sway bar links
  • Fabricated anti-sway bar links using grade 8 bolts and 1/8" pipe. The heavier anti-sway bar will snap the stock links.
  • Adjustable camber top kingpin bushings. Camber is now -1.5 deg.
  • Anti-tramp bars at the rear
  • New stock rear springs (old ones were sagging)
  • Polyurethane bushings for the Panhard rod
  • Dayton 72-spoke wire wheels with 195/65R-15 tires


For Marin-Sonoma.jpg
 
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