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Heater valve/tap gasket- Install dry?

fishyboy

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Hi all
I am about to install a replacement heater valve (the one on the side of the cylinder head) on my BT7 and would like some advice. Can anyone tell me if the gasket is installed dry or should I use some gasket sealant?
Thanks
Phil
 

roscoe

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Yes, I agree. Either it will seep if you put it in dry ( or not). If it seeps dry, then remove and add sealant. It will either leak or not. If it leaks, add more sealant or different sealant and tighten it a bit more. It won't dare leak after all that.
 

steveg

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Yes, I agree. Either it will seep if you put it in dry ( or not). If it seeps dry, then remove and add sealant. It will either leak or not. If it leaks, add more sealant or different sealant and tighten it a bit more. It won't dare leak after all that.

It may leak. Mine did - but not through the gasket. Moss explains this type of valve, with modern mfg techniques and without hand lapping, has a tendency to leak.

I tap it with the lead hammer to seat it - no leaks. Made tool below to free it up for easy hand-turning without stressing the brass handle. From a piece of EMT and a cut-off bolt:

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Last edited:

vette

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Yeh I solved that problem too. In this pic you can't see the valve but you can see the reason I never have to turn that valve again. An I live in Pa. My wife has taken many fall and early spring rides with the Army blanket pulled up around her. Kind of more nostalgic.
 

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steveg

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Lubed it with the faucet grease. Easier, but still needs a cheater to rotate. I'll try rotating it to the open position before Deadwood and see if the grease held. My homemade gasket got a little torn up removing the valve, but no leaks with Hylomar.

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