TR2/3/3A Wheel Alignment

I've got a few inches of slop when I turn the steering wheel before the wheels turn. Is there any point in attempting a wheel alignment at this point or should I bite the bullet and install the rebuilt steering box that is sitting in the basement?:uncomfortableness: Kind of wanted to wait till winter to tackle that project but I just put new Michelin tires on and don't want to ruin them. The car seems to track straight enough when I take my hands off the wheel on the highway ,maybe a slow drift to the right but isn't that just the crowned road?

Check where the slop is happening. If it's in the box, it won't affect alignment at all.

TR3driver said:

Check where the slop is happening. If it's in the box, it won't affect alignment at all.

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It's definetly in the box as the front end parts are fairly new. The thing is when I use the Manco gage it shows a toe out that is off the scale? If it was that bad wouldn't I notice it? If I stand back aways from the front of the car I can look down from the bottom of the front fender bead at the right tire and it lines up with the first tread on the tire. If I look at the left corner bead it lines up with the second from the inside tread on the tire which leads me to believe the front right tire is toeing out. Should i turn the front right tie rod adjuster in or do I need to set both tie rods in a centered position before I start. The inner locknut seems frozen to the adjuster. How to determine which way to turn it to break it free? Advice most appreciated.

Is the outer locknut free? If it is turning the frozen nut in the same direction should free it as you should have a RH thread one end and a LH thread on the other end of the tie rod.

Once I determined which direction to turn the tie rod to move the wheel in or out I marked it on the inside of the fender with a corresponding mark on the tie rod.

David

Do not use the body to measure anything to do with wheel alignment. The body is not straight with itself from the factory, and it is never mounted to the frame straight either.

I never mount new tires on sloppy parts...but that’s just me.

DavidApp said:

Is the outer locknut free? If it is turning the frozen nut in the same direction should free it as you should have a RH thread one end and a LH thread on the other end of the tie rod.

Once I determined which direction to turn the tie rod to move the wheel in or out I marked it on the inside of the fender with a corresponding mark on the tie rod.

David

Click to expand...

The outer lock nut is free but the inner locknut seems seized to the adjuster. The adjuster will only move maybe 3/4 turn then stops. I might have to take the wheel off for better access and get some penetrating oil in there. Looks like I've been there before as one of the flats on the lock nut has a rounded corner. Hope I don't end up tightening instead of loosening. One of those dyslexic things. Good idea about marking the fender.

Unfortunately, the adjusters could be set up either way. I set mine so that on either tie rod, if I rotate the front of the rod upward, it gets longer, and likewise, downward makes it shorter. To achieve that, I have the RH thread ball joint to the left side of the tie rod, and the LH joint to the right side...on both tie rods. They could be set up that way, or in any combination, so long as one side is RH and the other LH. You must closely study the threads and you can figure out which is which.

Maybe take a chunk of thick leather and a pair of vise grips and clamp the double threaded tube off to one end; I use the leather so I will not dig into the metal. Then take a good wrench like slotted six point tubing wrench and closely look at the threads to see the left and the right thread and either push or pull. In addition, I find if I get the 2 wrenches or in this case one wrench and a vise grip with just a couple of inches say 3 inches between them fixed and then put the 2 wrenches in my hand and close my hand the force is strong without pulling or pushing.