Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
Just heard from a couple of Triumph club members here who are having trouble getting a TR3 to run properly. They say it wont run unless the choke is pulled out and then the plugs foul. (I can see why the plugs would foul with the choke pulled out.:chargrined: They are going to try different plugs next? Anyone have any ideas on the best way way to proceed to isolate the problem?
-
The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
-
Hey there Guest!
If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
TR2/3/3A Friends TR3 has carb issues?
- Thread starter karls59tr
- Start date
Share this page
charleyf
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Karl,
By vacuum leaks I would point out the throttle shafts as a possible source. It seems small but does have the ability to really screw things up. To test for this with the car running,as slow as one can get it to idle, use some carb cleaner and spray it at the ends of the throttle shafts on each carb. If the engine speeds up a bunch you are getting air into that area. The more it speeds up the worse the problem is. The fix is to have the throttle shaft or shafts replaced and likely have a bushing inserted to repair the worn area in the carb body. I found on my TR3B that only the rear shaft was worn.
By vacuum leaks I would point out the throttle shafts as a possible source. It seems small but does have the ability to really screw things up. To test for this with the car running,as slow as one can get it to idle, use some carb cleaner and spray it at the ends of the throttle shafts on each carb. If the engine speeds up a bunch you are getting air into that area. The more it speeds up the worse the problem is. The fix is to have the throttle shaft or shafts replaced and likely have a bushing inserted to repair the worn area in the carb body. I found on my TR3B that only the rear shaft was worn.
STeve 1958
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Different plugs is a waste of time unless you know the plugs are bad. "TR3" and "Carburetor trouble" are synonymous. They may need a rebuild kit to replace the washers. The cork washers only last so long.
Rule of thumb is to check everything else, valve gap, timing, vacuum leaks, then tune up the carburetors and then rebuild the carburetors if needed.
Rule of thumb is to check everything else, valve gap, timing, vacuum leaks, then tune up the carburetors and then rebuild the carburetors if needed.
The old story was-- the problem with your SU carbs is your Lucas ignition-- But after suggesting that, my experience is the choke does not full return to off position causing the fouling; it only takes a little on the jet like a 1/16 or less of an inch of not closing to through the whole system off, and that can be difficult to see. What I do is reach underneath and push the jet back before I start messing with things.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Very first thing I would check is jet centering. Lowering the jets can reduce binding even if they are off-center. Lift each piston in turn and let it fall (engine off, choke off). They must land with a distinct click.
Then I would probably try disconnecting the choke linkage, and adjusting each jet by hand to the leanest position that will keep the engine running. Run the engine that way until it is fully warm, continuing to lean the mixture as it warms.
Then I would probably try disconnecting the choke linkage, and adjusting each jet by hand to the leanest position that will keep the engine running. Run the engine that way until it is fully warm, continuing to lean the mixture as it warms.
Similar threads
Similar threads
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
TR2/3/3A turn a tr3 non-full syncro transmission into a full syncro
- Started by sp53
- Replies: 3
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
TR2/3/3A Calling all Wiring experts TR3 Overdrive Wiring ver A or ver B or are they the same?- Started by luke44
- Replies: 8
-
-
-
-
A friendly reminder - be careful what links you click on here. If a link is posted by someone you don't know, or the URL looks fishy, DON'T CLICK. Spammers sometimes post links that lead to sites that can infect your computer, so be mindful what you click.