• The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
  • Hey there Guest!
    If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Leaking Fuel Pump

jfarris

Jedi Trainee
Gold
Country flag
Offline
1956 TR3, SU H6 carbs.
I recently filled the tank and immediately got a gas smell in the garage (wife is unhappy). There appears to be some seepage from the top of the fuel pump. I tightened the screws on the main body of the pump, may have helped some, but still seeping. I also have some fuel on top of the sediment bowl which makes no sense as there is not an opening there.
I looked in Moss' catalog, they have new repo pumps for $31 and rebuild kits for $13. The rebuild kit has a diaphragm and check valves but no seal for the diaphragm shaft. Can I assume that it has all the other required gaskets?
Has anyone else had this problem?
What do you have for the "tap" to turn off the flow of gas, the original style, a newer commercial shutoff, or nothing? I currently have nothing which is a problem with a full tank.
Thanks to all - happy motoring!
 

martx-5

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Haven't had that problem with my pump that I rebuilt about 8 years ago. I used the TRF rebuild kit (RFK1400) that has the oil seal. Unfortunately, it's not cheap at $60. As far as the shut-off valve goes, Triumph eventually eliminated it. There was a thread about what to replace it with just a couple of weeks ago. I'll see if I can find it.

http://trf.zeni.net/webcatalog/specials8.27/6.php?s_wt=1280&s_ht=720

 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
It's more expensive, but I also prefer an original pump with the TRF rebuild kit over a cheap repro. Absolutely zero issues with it since 2008.

If you do get a repro, make sure the pivot pin is positively located. The ones that are just staked into the body have been known to work loose and break the camshaft.

Your description sounds more like the outlet fitting leaking. It's a common problem, because the original compression sleeve was a different shape than modern ones. Hopefully, this link will show one solution
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2H2NJt34OffODA0ZmI4YTItNDhiZC00YmMzLTllOTUtZWVjN2U5MTUzZjA3/view

I went a different route and machined a new nut to use a modern sleeve. Unfortunately, I didn't take a photo or record dimensions.

I still run the original shutoff valve, but with a piece of nitrile fuel line in place of the original cork seal.

Another solution is to rig up a spare electric fuel pump (which I carry in the spare tire, even though I've never needed it on a TR) as a transfer pump.
 
Last edited:
OP
jfarris

jfarris

Jedi Trainee
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Thanks for the quick replies - the battle is half won.
I ordered a rebuild kit from TRF and it has already shipped. I was surprised at the difference in price between TRF and Moss on both kits and replacements.
I removed the fuel pump from the car, had to drain about 5 gals of gas, but there is no longer any gas seeping out, I'm back in hero status. For those who have the same issue in the future and have a very difficult time removing the fuel pump, the cam may be in the pump position. Tighten the pump back up and move the crankshaft a bit suggest by hand, and try again. I struggled to get the pump off. The sediment bowl gasket was deteriorated and was at least part of the leak.
I think I'll add a shutoff so the fuel can be turned off - I added one to my TR6.
Thanks again for the help!
 

charleyf

Luke Skywalker
Country flag
Online
Jim,
my recommendation for a fuel shut off is a 5/16" #12121 from Amazon. There are several of these on Amazon. I like the ones that are metal made for a motorcycle.
In rebuilding a fuel pump, I have always had a real problem removing and replacing the two valves. So much trouble that on the newer ones I quit changing them. These are the newer pumps with the peened valves. I have found the original valves have always worked however. But then I have also found that the really old pumps came with the valves held down by screws and a bracket.
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
The sediment bowl gasket was deteriorated and was at least part of the leak.
The TRF kit has a nice soft gasket for the sediment bowl, from nitrile rubber or similar. Much better than the old cork.
 

sp53

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Yes I need to get one of those TRF kits also. Plus I guess they have that part that would help prevent fuel going back into the engine block from a major blow out. I lost a 1971 Ford to one of leaks. My wife came home and told me something was wrong with the car, and I checked the oil, and the engine was full of gasoline. I would think a 1956 would have the shut off, so the car would be plumbed in with hard metal lines. One thing I found was if I lifted the car up high enough in the front I could get the fuel pump up high enough not to gravity leak, but I am not sure at what point of the amount of gallons of fuel that is effective, maybe 5.
 

Dr_Mike

Jedi Hopeful
Country flag
Offline
I just had a similar problem, but the leak, onto the top of the pump, seemed to be from the outlet union to the carbs. This seems to be a compression fitting so I planned to get a new brass thingy before I did anything else.
I have a shut off from Moss and it seems to work fine, thank goodness!
 

sail

Darth Vader
Silver
Country flag
Offline

Dr_Mike

Jedi Hopeful
Country flag
Offline
Thank you. many times

I think a PO had used a modern olive ( or brass thingy) since the nut is screwed right down.

I shall follow your suggestion.

Moss advertise an olive to fit, and it may be a longer than normal one as the price is also a lot longer than normal.

( BTW... I tried to locate emery paper locally last year and no-one had heard of it. I ended up with the finest "wet and dry" that i could get. Looks like a file will do just fine.)

Thanks again.
 
OP
jfarris

jfarris

Jedi Trainee
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Thanks to all who replied - this clearly discussion demonstrated the value of this forum to owners of LBC's! Charley, I already had that shutoff ordered when you posted. Randall, your fix for the "wrong size" compression fitting will help bunches of owners who spring leaks and have no idea why. All parts are in the car, no leaks with a short run in the garage. I'll get out for a test drive this afternoon and then think of some place fun to go this weekend.
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
A GT6 Fuel Pump Leaking at out port GT6 MK3 Triumph 0
H TR2/3/3A Leaking Fuel Pump Sediment Bowl Triumph 5
D Leaking fuel pump connections Triumph 32
D Leaking fuel pump Spridgets 7
J New SU Fuel Pump - Gas leaking out of carb vents Austin Healey 24
N Fuel Pump Leaking MG 32
floyd leaking fuel pump Triumph 6
drooartz Leaking fuel pump Spridgets 36
G Twin HS4 Su's leaking fuel Spridgets 18
G General MG Leaking Fuel on twin HS4's 1500 MG Midget MG 5
I TR6 TR6 - Fuel leaking from bottom of Evaporator Canister Triumph 11
Martinld123 H Type Carburetors BN2 M version Leaking Fuel At Jet Bearing Area Austin Healey 18
D Fuel leaking from carbon canister Triumph 6
T Fuel sediment bowl leaking madness Triumph 12
A Stromberg Leaking Fuel Triumph 9
B Flex Fuel Line Leaking Austin Healey 7
Q SU Carb Leaking fuel at top Spridgets 8
ronzet Fuel pumps, generators, and leaking SUs MG 10
bighealeysource Leaking Overdrive and Gearbox Drain Plugs Austin Healey 19
S Leaking HD6 Rear Carb Austin Healey 10
bighealeysource T-Series My older Brooklands steering wheel is leaking ! MG 4
tj_tr3_tr6 TR4/4A Water leaking into sump 30 days after rebuild Triumph 16
jehuie Help...replaced my alternator and now my water pump is leaking. Spridgets 16
F Girling Brake Fluid Reservoirs Leaking Austin Healey 12
S TR2/3/3A rear main seal is leaking Triumph 13
R TR2/3/3A Leaking O.D. section of Transmission Triumph 43
E Oil leaking from the Tachometer cable Austin Healey 5
T TR6 My '74 TR6 Zenith Stromberg Carbs Float Bowls Leaking Gas Triumph 11
Jim_Gruber BE Steering Rack-Leaking 90w Spridgets 5
AUSMHLY BJ8 Rear Wheel Cylinder leaking Austin Healey 30
drooartz Leaking 5-speed drain plug Spridgets 26
S TR2/3/3A and the radiator was leaking. Triumph 7
H TR4/4A Leaking ft hub seals Triumph 5
D BT7 rear wheel leaking Austin Healey 25
N Leaking Carburettor Austin Healey 11
B MGB Hif’s Rear leaking gas MG 11
J TR4/4A Head leaking water Triumph 14
T TR4/4A Tr4A oil leaking from timing cover Triumph 13
regularman Gear leaking from axle housing into rear brake drum Spridgets 3
C TR6 Brake servo leaking Triumph 3
RJS TR4/4A Head Leaking Coolant after Coolant Flush Triumph 15
R soft plug leaking Austin Healey 45
George Zeck Master Cyl Leaking .... Spridgets 5
M TR2/3/3A O/D brass cap leaking Triumph 5
F Leaking rear axle hub [BT7] following instalation of new seal! Austin Healey 9
rjc157 Leaking steering box Austin Healey 4
B mysterious leaking of SU HD8 Jaguar 9
F Leaking rocker/bable cover gasket BT7 Austin Healey 6
B TR6 Oil pressure gauge-oil leaking behind the glass Triumph 2
B Rear Engine Side Cover Leaking Austin Healey 9

Similar threads

Top