TR2/3/3A TS27036 for a couple laps

I took TS27036 for a couple laps around the block; she has not been out for 44-years or since I bought it back in 1975. She handled very well. The lifters rattled a little, but noises are clearer with no hood or other sheet metal. I left the sheet metal off because I wanted to see clearer the mistakes I made with leaks and such and be able to fix them easily, maybe kinda sorta. I have had the sheet meatal off and on so many times; it should go back on ok. It does look like the brake reservoir is leaking, but the cap could have been loose. Thanks to Randall and John for always being there and anybody else that chimed in.
steve

Looking great.
Good idea to do the test runs like that so possible issues can be seen and fixed easily.

Any Bugs in your teeth.

Did a short run in my TR3A with no screen in February. No bugs but the cold was eye watering even at 25MPH.

David

Very nice...well, except for the wheels! I love the white frame. It stands out after seeing so many black!

Your pics bring back memories of my first laps in my first TR3.
!967 I was 16 and bought a 61 with 30k miles,from my sisters older brother.He drove the car from new thru 4 years of college,then it sat for 3 years under a big tree,covered in leaves when i bought it for $100.
I stripped it down to state similar to yours to paint it turgouise seafoam mist.
Two blocks from home with no windshield ,fenders,hood trunk or doors ,and the seats laying in unattached I got pulled over by the local Police.
No drivers license or registration ,I got an escort home and a stern warning that next time he would talk to my father.
I drove that car everyday for 2 years after my birthday and never had a mechanical issue beyond a tune up.
It was my only run in with the local pd until I rear ended a car while tapping my stuck tachometer,that made an abrupt left in front of the police station.
My friends father,a different cop that I knew,walked over and said I must have been following to close.I said no,he turned without signalling.He said following to close was no points,careless driving was points.I said I must have been following to close,
With just a large cowl dent I sold it running and driving for$25,and bought a 64 tr4 , 6years old ,for $400.
Iv been back on the road in my New Tr3 for 5 years this month and enjoying every drive.
This forum and its members were a big part of finishing the project.
Have fun
Tom

Great story, Tom!

I think it's wise to do as much testing as possible before you get too far along. My TR4A is almost at the same stage as yours, and I'll do some similar testing before it gets fenders, but no drives until it's properly registered. I've already run the engine and checked the OD by spinning it with an electric drill.

I like the color. I think it works better on a TR3 than a 4, somehow.

I went the original colors. The frame was primrose yellow and the car was powder blue. I added a split steering column and an OD—Plus it had red seats and red wool carpet. However, I changed those to black, but now I wish I would have stayed with the red. I just could not get there at first.

Beautiful. I'm driving mine today too. It gets about 25 miles per gallon of gas and 25 miles per quart of oil.
The oil pan is coming off tonight for a new gasket. I wish I had done more testing before I installed the interior. Now I find that I have a bad synchro in 2nd and might need to pull the transmission.
Oh well, it's all fun.

Steve, what are the pipes behind the shock absorber mounts?

Looks great, it is encouraging to see others with their cars a little, well a lot farther down the road than mine is. Some times it seems like there is no end to the repairs but your pictures are a big help. Work has stalled my project for the last few weeks but looks like full speed ahead in a week or so. Cant wait to get back to repairing the sheetmetal and seeing repairs that have already been made to realize how far it has already come. looking forward to see how your car progresses. Frank

Yeh when I got it the car it had a roll bar welded to the rear shock mount and top of the frame. The welds are deep with good penetration and my concern was if I cut them flush I would weaken the frame and shock mount, and the car could fold there. What they did was weld a section of about 2-1/4 inch by a about a 2 foot long in place then stick another pipe say 2 inch OD inside that and weld that. What I did was cut below the weld and pulled the roll bar out and left that numb because I was again concerned about the whole structure. I could put another roll bar back in that hole, but I doubt I would because I would have to drill holes into the tub. Moreover, back in the day people would put roll bars right on the inner fender sheet-metal. My bet is they would/might hold, but I would hate to find out.


Yes Frank restoration is a battle both psychologically and physically. I try and do some little thing every day. Heck the little things and details like getting a broken bolt out make seeing progress difficult and are often very challenging and time consuming. Then one day you put the transmission in about 10 minutes and see a lot of progress. So, it is all peas porridge hot—peas porridge cold- peas porridge in the pot nine days old---it is all peas porridge. Oh and thanks again for the door brackets they are impressive. And rare.

steve

Today was peas porridge cold. My car has been leaking oil and I found a new pan gasket in the box of stuff that came with the car.
I pulled the pan off only to find that the gasket was the wrong size by about an inch. I ordered a new one but the cars up on jack stands for a few days.

Steve is the leak in the front or the back? Are you familiar with the type of rear main seal the cars had stock?

It was leaking everywhere but not a bad as I thought since there was still four quarts of oil in the pan.
I've never replaced the main seals. Not sure how big a job that is, but I can live with a little leak.

My tendency is to put Permatex on both sides of the gasket. Some say yes, some say no. Any suggestions.

Anyways I would peen or push the bolt holes back flat and probably use the hylomar stuff, but I have never used it, and I think you have to order it, but again it is supposed to be worth it. I used that red gooey stuff on this last motor and I think peramtex might make it. I used that because I did the front cover also and want something kinda thin and gooey. Whatever you use get some on the bolt threads also and look up front and you will see a bridging piece with a couple of cork pieces in the front; make sure they are there or replace them with cork or something. These cars are hard to seal-- Might have to learn to live with some of it.

steve