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TR2/3/3A Gearbox removal and refitting leaver

Graham H

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To help with my recent gearbox removal I made up a simple leaver that worked like a charm and made the job much less stressful. The Z shaped bracket was two pieces of 1"x1"x1/8" angle welded together and bolted to the firewall the lever is inch by inch square tube 45 inches long with a 1/4 x inch extension on one end loosely bolted to the top of the Z. The lifting bracket is bolted to the top of the box at the balance point making it easy to manoeuvre forward or back. I am not planning on making a habit of removing the box but now the hardest part is lifting it in and out of the passenger door the actual fitting was a breeze.

Graham
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mgedit

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Looks like a good idea, just hope I don’t have to use it any time soon. Cheers, Mike
 

sp53

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Graham that is perfect; I needed to see that-- plus I like how routed your overdrive relay also. I wish I would have rebuilt my over drive before I installed it like John did, but my lack of understanding of the overdrive unit had me decide to install the trans and listen to see what could be wrong. I looked inside and visually inspected the gears and they looked fine, but again I might be pulling it out next week after I hear it and feel it. I have been moving slow because of back problems and your invention will defiantly help if I need to remove the trans, good idea. I have removed a few non-OD- trans out from the top, but I was younger.

Thanks for sharing steve
 
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Graham H

Graham H

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If you have to remove and refit the OD from the gearbox I came upon a youtube ( A-Type Overdrive Overhaul -part 8 ) showing an easy way to engage the splines and it worked a treat using the pressure gauge adapter with an airline fitting.

Photos will not download?

Graham
 

DavidApp

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That looks like a great idea.

As I have a OD gearbox to swap out later in the year I need to build one of these rigs. Was thinking of a bracket to allow my engine hoist to do the lifting.

I presume that you have the rear of the motor blocked up to stop it moving.

David
 
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Graham H

Graham H

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Yes, David, you need to take the rear mount and cross member out then position the height so the bell housing will clear the firewall and block the gearbox and engine take off all the bits and pieces including the starter motor which I leave in the engine bay with a piece of wire looped around it and tied to the heater tap for support, fit the lifting bar and slide the box out and up onto the floor. I think I had to add a link on the chain at one point, I can't remember if that was putting it in or taking it out I think it was to let the bar clear the tunnel but shortened again for the final fit. I used a good block of wood under the sump to support the engine and another under the gearbox but you will need to fiddle with the height as the box with OD is a different shape underneath.

Graham
upside down again
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Merlin63Tr4

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And right side up...

M.
 

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DavidApp

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Hello Graham

What about the top radiator hose did you remove it or loosen the hose clamps to prevent damage to the radiator if the engine is moved up or down during the operation?

David
 
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