TR5/TR250 New Clutch time?

I've been working on a TR250 that hasn't run since 1979. Engine now purring beautifully after a carb rebuild, new points, cap wires and plugs. Hoses all new, and a complete brake job - new master, booster, shoes, rotors, hoses, rear cylinders and calipers. I replaced the clutch master, slave and hose but the trans will only do the 1/2 shift and not cleanly. Can not get the car into 3 or 4. Can get reverse but again not as it should. I'm mostly a Healey/Corvette guy and I'm wondering if there is oddball something or other I might be missing. I bought the car a project to do with my grandkids and I would like to sell the car as one that is a solid driver needing no mechanical work.

TIA

Joe

Can you tell us a bit more? When you can't get it into 3 or 4, do the gears grind, or the shift lever just won't move, or it moves but the gears don't engage?

Does the clutch only release with the pedal touching the floor?

Did the new clutch slave have the spring inside of it?

Clutch problems are unfortunately all too common with the 6 cylinder TRs; but there are many sources of trouble (including defective or flat-out wrong components being sold as replacements).

Thank you for the reply. Gears in 3 and 4 do not grind or engage. I have the tunnel off and when I depress the clutch and try to engage the gears the driveshaft starts to turn but the gears don't get to the point of grinding. The pedal releases above the floor and the slave seems to be fully bleed. I have no idea of a spring inside the slave, so please enlighten me and I will check. The clutch hydraulic kit came from Moss via the Little British Car Company. Funny but everything else I used came from TRF. Exteriorly the slave and master looked identical to what came off the car. The rod from the slave is the same length as the original on the car. Thank you for your efforts. BTW the car does have overdrive and it is not stuck in overdrive as I was able to grind it into reverse. Car is still on jack stands.

Joe

The TR4A-TR6 used a "self adjusting" clutch setup, where the slave cylinder holds the piston out against the pushrod and linkage, so the throwout bearing rides against the pressure plate all the time.

But the same slave cylinder was used in other applications, some of which were not self-adjusting and hence did not use the spring. The Moss diagram shows the spring (item 22 here https://mossmotors.com/triumph-tr6-250/clutch-gearbox-drivetrain/clutch-5 ) as being included in the assembly (but not in the rebuild kit). But sometimes mistakes happen.

It does sound like your clutch is dragging; and probably not as a result of too little movement at the slave. But given how much hassle it is to change the clutch, I would want to make as certain of that as possible first. Pull the lever to the rear with your fingers, and check that the slave piston is still touching the pushrod. If not, the spring may be missing or broken.

If that's OK, measure how far the lever moves while someone else pushes the pedal. You should see about 5/8" movement at the pivot pin. If so, then I'm afraid it's clutch out time. There's is a series of articles starting at https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ReliableClutch/ReliableClutch.htm that you might want to read through. (Note that it was written some time ago; I've been told that the RHP bearings being sold now are good.)

Randall

Again thank you for the help. Later today I will check things out and check out the link you sent. Enjoy your day.

Joe

Randall

Looks like it's new clutch time. With transmission cover off I can see the movement of the shaft which should be sufficient. Clutch will have to take its place behind another chore.

Be well

Joe