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T-Series MG Noob

Bob_Spidell

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Hello Fellow LBC Fans,

I own and maintain two Austin-Healeys, a BJ8 and a BN2, and have always had at least a passing interest in all Little British Cars (including, of course, MGs). A friend recently acquired a TD, and I've offered to 'have a look' at it for her. I've seen a picture, and it looks like a cream puff, but we all know danger can lurk within the lovely skins of Brit cars. Can y'all summarize what gotchas I should be looking for (before you say 'read the threads,' there are, as I write this, 10,371 threads which are all flagged as unread to me--I wouldn't know where to start)? I'm pretty well-versed in SU carbs and fuel pumps, so a short list of what I should look for, on top and underneath, would be helpful. General stuff, like which fluids to use in the engine, rear end and gearbox--I know this usually starts an endless thread--would also be helpful as would, of course, issues specific to this model.

I'll start: I assume these cars were originally positive ground--but we all know where ass-U-me'n can get you--but some (many?) have probably been converted to negative ground?

Thanks,
Bob
 

Grantura_MKI

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Would check for wood rot to the body. Poorly fitting doors. Body filler to the lower portion of the body tub.
Original air filter assembly can be expensive to replace if missing.
 

pdplot

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Where to start. 1. Make sure it has the correct spark plugs. At some point, (late 1952??) they went from a 1/2" reach to a 3/4" reach. Door latches are terrible and doors can open at speed as they're hinged at the back "suicide doors". Tach drives screw into the back of the generator and fail regularly. Windshield wiper motors - whether mounted above the passenger seat or in the center - cut out due to water running down the shaft into the motor. Clutch and brake pedals are on the same shaft and when mud, sand, etc. get in there, pushing one pedal will move the other. Check steering column for looseness due to worn felt washer pressed into the top of the column. Body and fender rust and rotten wood. Gearboxes are pretty rugged as not much hp is going into them. Check for low oil pressure, especially on early TDs. Replace ball and spring will sometimes bring pressure back up. Valve cover gasket leaks are common. Cooling system is not pressurized so cars can overheat very easily and be sure that the solid brass radiator cap is not on too tightly so you can't get it off on a hot day. Oil consumption can be a problem. Remember, these engines were made to get a valve job at around 30K miles and a rebuild not too long after. The piston speed at 60 mph is frightening. Observe carefully the tach red line. Never mind Ken Purdy and those writers telling you that these engines can be revved up to 7000 rpm or whatever. Nonsense. They can be if valve float allows it but your rod bearings will go for sure if you keep it up. Check the side curtains as they only fit into their compartment one way. Make sure you have an owners manual and a workshop manual. Parts used to be cheap when I restored mine back in 1973 but they got expensive. I've had 3 TDs, a 1951, a 1952 MK II and a frame-up resto on another 52. That's all I can think of now. But remember this. Back in the day, that was our only car, rain. shine, snow or whatever. YRMV. Good luck.
 
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Bob_Spidell

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Thanks 'D.' and 'pd!' I didn't know these had a wooden frame (a la Morgan). My friend likes fast cars and drives them hard, it'll take some persuading to get her to take it easy on this one.
 

Grantura_MKI

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The chassis is metal and very robust. The first MG priducted with coil strings and a steering rack.
The body tub is wooden covered in metal as all old MG were, except for the cloth covered MMMs.
Many tend to weld on the metal and burn the wooden structures and make them un safe.
best of luck!
 

Brinkerhoff

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The engines are good and will run long past their prime. The problem with that is that everything will need to be replaced if closely examined. The crankshafts are now $3,000, the cam is $500 and so on, meaning an engine rebuild can run close to $6-7,000 just in parts ! That can easily put you upside down in a car that is sliding downward in value over time . The gearbox should be quiet in first and reverse but if it isn't , that's also expensive 2-2500 to repair a noisy gearbox. The rest of the car is just like any other British Car that needs nickels and dimes thrown at it.
 

pdplot

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OK. I had to do it. I kept a file on my MG TD restoration from 1973 and pulled it out when I read the last post. In that file were the Moss and Abingdon Spares catalogs I used. Here are some of the prices:
Crankshaft - $200.00 including $35 core charge. Leather upholstery seat kit - $195.00. Starter $36.45. 3-ring piston set- $14.35. Exhaust manifold-exchange only-$23.50!. Coil spring-$23.75. Armstrong front shock-$43.00. Bumper overrider-$12.00. Hubcap-$8.55. SU fuel pump (new)-$19.50. Moss heater kit-$60.00 (remember, TD's came with no heater.) Rebuilt carburetors-$40.00. Condenser-$2.05. Point set-$1.65. Rear fender-$48.00. Door-$44.00. Read 'em and weep for the Good Old Days.
 

TimK

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I broke an axle just normally leaving a gas station in a TF 1500. Also, when we got the car it wouldn’t run. I discovered the front end of the intake manifold had blown out. Put a cork in it and it ran fine. (Later fixed correctly of course).
 

Mickey Richaud

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OK. I had to do it. I kept a file on my MG TD restoration from 1973 and pulled it out when I read the last post. In that file were the Moss and Abingdon Spares catalogs I used. Here are some of the prices:
Crankshaft - $200.00 including $35 core charge. Leather upholstery seat kit - $195.00. Starter $36.45. 3-ring piston set- $14.35. Exhaust manifold-exchange only-$23.50!. Coil spring-$23.75. Armstrong front shock-$43.00. Bumper overrider-$12.00. Hubcap-$8.55. SU fuel pump (new)-$19.50. Moss heater kit-$60.00 (remember, TD's came with no heater.) Rebuilt carburetors-$40.00. Condenser-$2.05. Point set-$1.65. Rear fender-$48.00. Door-$44.00. Read 'em and weep for the Good Old Days.


Well, it seems the good old days weren't! According to the Consumer Price Index folks:

[h=3] U.S. Inflation Rate, $100 in 1973 to 2018
[/h] According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics consumer price index, prices in 2018 are 467.90% higher than prices in 1973. The dollar experienced an average inflation rate of 2.70% per year during this period.

In other words, $100 in 1973 is equivalent in purchasing power to $567.90 in 2018, a difference of $467.90 over 45 years.


So that $200 crank would cost $1135.80 today! Guess THESE are the good old days! :wink:
 
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Bob_Spidell

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... Original air filter assembly can be expensive to replace if missing.

Finally got a look at the car today; she couldn't get it started--didn't know how to use a choke :excitement: It is a nice car from what I can see; doors are indeed finicky but didn't pop open on a short trip. I'm impressed by the rack-and-pinion steering, wish my Healeys had it.

Anyway, there wasn't any sort of air filter on the carbs, and I get that they're expensive (if even obtainable). But, I can't imagine what kind of filter would fit under the tight cowl, especially on the front carb. Is this the correct type?

https://www.englishparts.com/produc...LINGS-AIR-FILTER--15-IN--SU/3818/223-200.html

Also, the coolant temp jumped quickly to 90degC on an easy drive on a warm but not hot day; typical? My friend was told 'they all do this,' and to run straight water, but by the looks of the rusty coolant that overflowed when we stopped I think at least a rust inhibitor--e.g. Water Wetter--is in order? The radiator cap didn't have a gasket, but I noticed a large O-ring on the top of the rad tank's threads. We got considerable leaking from under the cap, I'm not sure the threads on the rad tank were long enough to seal with the cap. Do these car's have a pressurized coolant system?

Thanks again for al the help. I believe she plans to sell the car at Montery (not sure which auction).
 

Grantura_MKI

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Your link is to an after market air cleaner.
would not run any car on straight water...so no telling what could also be hiding in the water system.
The “O” ring is standard. Should have a thermostat but no over flow system.
It is a TD and there are plenty to be had. If the wood and price is right and everything is there...how much?
 
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Bob_Spidell

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So, that's not the correct air filter? Got a pic of the originals?

That's what I said to her; at least put a quart or so of antifreeze in the water to keep it from freezing. The rad does have an overflow tube (aftermarket?). Are these pressurized?

I'll ask her what she'd take for it. Car's in California, can't tell for sure where you're located. It's all there, except for windows, as far as I can tell.
 

Jim B.

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The original TD air filter was an oil bath filter.
An upgraded, original looking, replacement can be obtained here:

https://www.mgbits.com/contents/en-uk/p8541_Filter-Reproduction-Air-Cleaner.html

If you do not have the intake manifold they also have them.

You can add additional safety locks to the doors if they are of concern. These are period correct and available from FTFU (From the frame up).
Also there is a lot of adjustment in the door locks themselves, BUT if they look worn, the holes in the door pillars are oval or enlarged, do your self a favor and get new ones.

I replaced the wooden door pillars on my tub and tried installing the old/broken/worn latches for months. I finally broke down and got new ones (Abingdon Spares) and finally, still with much work , got them to lock well.

I have not used the safety lashes much.

Oh yes picture of air filter
 

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Grantura_MKI

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Non pressurized system.
I am in Fallbrook, CA at the moment.
This is NOT a car to sell at Monterey....it won’t bring anything there.
 

pdplot

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Again I say (from bitter experience) - don't overtighten that brass radiator cap or allow anyone else to touch it. You'll never be able to remove it. The answers you've gotten so far are correct. Do not slam the doors shut or allow your passenger to do it. Your latches will thank you. Shut them slowly and quietly. Make sure your gas warning light is working to avoid running out of gas on the highway. If your oil pressure is low, (normal on early TDs) you can raise it with a stiffer spring under the ball. What year is yours?
 
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Bob_Spidell

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Bob_Spidell

Bob_Spidell

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Non pressurized system.
I am in Fallbrook, CA at the moment.
This is NOT a car to sell at Monterey....it won’t bring anything there.

I thought that as well. I wasn't even sure what she meant by 'Monterey,' but I didn't question (except to mention she might not get over the Altamont with it spewing coolant like that).
 
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Bob_Spidell

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Again I say (from bitter experience) - don't overtighten that brass radiator cap or allow anyone else to touch it. You'll never be able to remove it. The answers you've gotten so far are correct. Do not slam the doors shut or allow your passenger to do it. Your latches will thank you. Shut them slowly and quietly. Make sure your gas warning light is working to avoid running out of gas on the highway. If your oil pressure is low, (normal on early TDs) you can raise it with a stiffer spring under the ball. What year is yours?

Thanks for the tips! This car belongs to a friend of mine; I'm not sure of the year but I've got a call into her to find out. I'll pass the word on the radiator cap; since the cooling system isn't pressurized it seems to me it shouldn't leak, but does.

Where is the 'gas warning light?' She dipped the tank to make sure we had gas before we went for a drive.

Edit: Just got off the phone with her, it's a '52.
 

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