TR2/3/3A Replacing rear springs

I am replacing the rear springs on my 54 TR-2. I have everything detached with the exception of getting the spring off the forward fulcrum bolt. I got the cotter pin and nut off, but there isn't enough room to slide the front off the bolt. Is there a way to loosen this front bolt to get the spring off?

Dick

The spring eye bolt in question goes through the frame. Look on the inside of the frame rail and you'll see a place to thread a 5/16 x 24 threaded bolt or rod into the back of the spring eye bolt. Use the bolt you thread into the back of the spring eye to pull the spring eye bolt back through the frame. The front of the spring will now fall down/out.

Problem with the above is that the spring eye can be seized to the bolt, and the bolt can be seized to the frame. Lots of penetrating oil and possibly some (carefully applied) heat are in order.

I used a length of 5/16 all-thread in that hole and fashioned a spacer using a long socket. Tightening a nut against the spacer and some washers drew the bolt out as smooth as a cork from a wine bottle.

Some use Grade 8 all thread though the usual stuff worked for me. I can see that Grade 8 would be prudent if the bolt was hard to move.

Many tales associated with that bolt including drilling a hole in the body owrk to drive it out and even someone who undid the rear of the body enough that they could hammer on it.

I would be a good idea to clean the threads inside that bolt well to assure whatever you use can be threaded fully home for a good grip.

Do you have new springs?

David

I am going to have to buy some. The right one was actually missing about a 4" section of the main leaf, right at the axle connection. The front section left had a jagged edge? Curious how this can happen?

Dick

I used pretty much the same process Geo describes; but with the high tensile threaded rod & nuts (from McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/#90322a691/=1e15f9n ). Even then, I thought the threads would strip before the pin started to move; and it was tight all the way out. I felt it prudent to replace the rod & nut partway through the process, as they were both showing signs of wear.

I used a bottoming tap to clean out the threads as much as possible.

I would like to learn more about how and why leaf springs break, as I've broken several of them now. I have a sneaking suspicion that I've been overly casual about tightening the U-bolts and perhaps not getting them evenly tensioned or something.


I also found that the new springs I bought were much too stiff. The free height was about right, but the car wouldn't sit down on them at all even after I built longer shackles. I even built a test stand to prove what I already knew: the new springs were almost twice as stiff as they should have been, much stiffer than even the stiffest competion springs.


Im currently running a pair of original springs that someone gave me, but I'll need to replace them soon.

I bought a pair from Rimmer Brothers but was not very pleased with the quality in several areas.
I finally got a pair manufactured by Eaton Springs. Very happy with the quality and they claim the spring rate matches the origonal design but useds 1 less leaf as the material is better than that available in the 1960s. I have not driven on them yet so I can't comment on the ride yet.

David

The leaves are tapered at the ends as the original ones had.

David

Thanks for all the info, I will research before I buy.

Dick

Mike Eaton has the TR3 drawings now. I supplied him with the front bushes.

Good luck with the removal of the old ones.

David

Thanks David,

I pulled up their website and could not find anything for TR's. What did he charge you?

Thanks, Dick

I am going to attack it tomorrow. I ran a tap through to make sure the threads were clean. Glad I did as the tap moved very slowly, but when I hit the bolt, I could almost turn it back with my fingers. I got a good harden steel 5/16' x 24 bolt today.

They were high but I felt correct was better than cheap. As far as I remember it was $400.00. He may do them for less now that he has done a set. Call and speak to Mike.

David

Well, I was not successful in removing the front bolt. Even with a harden steel bolt, it broke right when it was getting very hard to turn. I still have about 3/4" of the bolt sticking out, but could not grip it with Vise Grips.

I don't understand how screwing a bolt through the Fulcrum bolt works to remove it? Is the Fulcrum Bolt just pressed into the frame? I assume had the bolt come out it would move towards the frame, not outward?

Assuming I had been successful in removing the bolt, how do you re-install it?

You do not screw the bolt through the fulcrum bolt but rather into the end of it to get a hold of it to be able to pull it out. That fulcrum bolt has a head that is missing one side. On the frame that bolt sets up against a protrusion that locks that fulcrum bolt into place. So you can not turn that bolt until you get it backed out at least one half inch.
Refer back to the threads above on how to set up that bolt to use it as a PULLER to pull the fulcrum bolt .

Go down to post #3 in this thread. You will see how that bolt looks, and get an idea of what you need to do to remove it.

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?108693-Recipe-for-a-TR2

The bolt will not turn, as it is keyed into the frame. It just pulls straight out. It is also highly unlikely that it will be able to pull out at all until it soaks with PB blaster for several days. Worst of all, if the broken bolt cannot be removed to use all-thread and a nut (not another bolt), then the only recourse is to raise the body off the frame enough to hammer the end of the bolt inward...or just remove the spring with the body up allowing access.

Once you get the bolt out, screw in a length of hardened all-thread. Place a 1/2” drive deep socket over the head of the bolt, so the socket rests against the frame, entirely covering the round bolt head. Then add a washer and nut. As you turn the nut, the all-thread will pull the bolt out, using the socket as leverage. Once the head of the bolt bottoms in the socket, you will have to replace the socket with a longer pipe, tube, etc to keep working the bolt on out.

It is very common to have the bolt seized so tightly that lifting the body is the only way to remove it.

I notice you tend to jump into some of these little projects without studying the manual. If you post your plans ahead of time, we can give you a heads up on potential problems. The TR3 is super simple, but certain jobs...like this particular bolt...have fretted even the the best of mechanics for over 60 years. Like mentioned above, many have gone as far as drilling holes through their body just to remove the front of the spring.

Yes, I had to lift up the body of my 54 TR2, and I just pulled the spring off the pin and left the seized pin in there. After lifting the body up, I first tried hammering it inward, but I ended up hammering so hard without results that I was worried I would damage the frame. So I left the pin in there. Lifting the body up a little is not that simple and requires planning.


Dan

Dan,
I have removed all removal parts off the frame ,during the restoration; fenders,doors,trunk,hood nose and spare tire door. I currently have the back of the body about 3' up while working on the axle.

How did you go about lifting the body up to remove the spring?

Thanks, Dick

Thanks John,

I currently have removed the fenders, doors, hood, mouth, trunk and spare tire doors to do the restoration.

How did you raise the body , to get the spring off?

Dick

Is this what you are referring to as a piece missing?

David

Redoakboo said:

I am going to have to buy some. The right one was actually missing about a 4" section of the main leaf, right at the axle connection. The front section left had a jagged edge? Curious how this can happen?

Dick

Click to expand...