• The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
  • Hey there Guest!
    If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Tips
Tips

Lost 8 terminal Flasher Relay Plan

RAC68

Darth Vader
Offline
Hi All,

Recently I had a problem with my Flasher Relay when the left blinker failed to activate. A while back, I downloaded a plans from an Austin Healey Club website that used 2 relays to fully replicate the Flasher Relay but, sorry to say, missed placed it. Yes, I know I can get a solid state version of the Flasher Relay from Moss but had been planning to implement the downloaded design for quite a while when my original unit failed.

Does anyone know where I can get a copy of the 2-relay posted plan?

Thanks,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
OP
RAC68

RAC68

Darth Vader
Offline
Hi Steve,

This is what I found, however, the original plan I had also included verbage that more completely described the relays and its mounting.

View attachment Plan Flasher Relay.pdf

I am still looking for the original and still have to identify how I will be mounting the components within the original Flasher Relay housing.

Your thoughts,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
OP
RAC68

RAC68

Darth Vader
Offline
Hi John,

Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Recognizing the plan you posted, and I misplaced, was much more complete, I was concerned there was something I could be missing something that could cause a major electrical issue.

Although I was planning to follow the connections in the diagram I posted, I was concerned I could be missing something critical for a full rebuild. Also, since power to the brake/flasher passes through the Relay, I wanted to make sure my choice of relays had sufficient internal wiring to handle the amperage. Based upon the plan you provided, I can feel much less tenuous about achieving a successful implementation.

All the best,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 

steveg

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Ray - when you find DPDT relays that will fit inside the box cover, please post sourcing info. Thank you.

Addendum: This one on eBay looks like it'll fit:
screenshot.1336.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
RAC68

RAC68

Darth Vader
Offline
Hi Steve,

I am looking for 2 DPDT automotive Relays 12VDC 10a that can be side mounted. I will post what I come up with.

To dismount the Flasher Relay box, I will have to remove the cold air duct which requires removal of my vertical radiator shroud, and fender (including head light/parking light and bilge blower). Although I have removed all items at different times before, it has been quite a while and everything seems an initial exploration. I guess this reflects the Healey experience in which, other then removing my radio knobs, every task requires doing 10 things before you get to do the 1 you want to do.

Hot and humid day in my NJ garage and just letting off a little steam,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 

steveg

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Ray,
Ixnay on the fender removal. I took all that stuff out last year for my engine overhaul/engine bay paint job -- without removing the fender.

For reassembly, suggest the following (pictures later):

On the relay box base, install two 10-32 rivet nuts in the upper mounting screw holes. Drill out the captive nuts in the fender with 7/32" drill. This way the upper two screws are accessible from the wheel well. The lower single screw/captive nut remains as stock.
 
OP
RAC68

RAC68

Darth Vader
Offline
Hi Steve,

Boy, am I sorry I didn't read your post earlier.

I just spend all day removing the fender and Door, to access and remove the Cold Air Duct and then the Flasher Relay. After removing or disturbing a number of components (some electrical) that were operating perfectly, I know there will be issues putting things back together. Testing the Flasher Relay Box showed power at the Flasher and left side coil but no power going to the left signal bulbs. Although the internal contacts seemed OK, the left magnetic coil doesn't seem to be functioning.

To assure that our solid state rebuild is capable of handling and providing sufficient power, I will be selecting 2 DPDT Automotive 12VDC/10a Relays. The space under the cover is only 1 1/4" high so, as the plan shows, we will be mounting the relays on their side and soldering and shrink wrapping all Relay connections. For those who want to expend more effort, a custom printed circuit board could be created for a cleaner implementation.

Well, that's it for today.

Again, I wish I had seen your post earlier.
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 

Healey Nut

Luke Skywalker
Country flag
Offline
Seriously ......all that work for a flasher relay ...... sticking your arm out the rolled down window works pretty good IMHO
 
OP
RAC68

RAC68

Darth Vader
Offline
Seriously ......all that work for a flasher relay ...... sticking your arm out the rolled down window works pretty good IMHO

You may be right when driving in less congested areas but not at the NJ Shore. High speeds and too many on the road eliminate hand signals as a viable alternative. Yes, in an emergency, hand signals are an alternative but it is amazing how many drivers have either forgotten or never new what hand signals indicate/mean.

As an example, Sunday, our club had a British Car Gathering at a local Park that was well attended. Seeing the activity, a driver of a beautiful Porch 356 pulled into the parking lot to also enjoy the gathering. When leaving, he used hand signals to indicate he was stopping at the exit before entering the roadway. Without understanding its meaning, a driver of an SUV ran into the back of the Porch and with ire, asked "What were you doing with your hand out the window?" Hand Signals, having lost my left brake and signal light going to the gathering, yes I used them going home to make sure I didn't receive a $300 ticket. However, I would never feel secure they will be understood and appropriately responded to by the general driving population.

All the best,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
Last edited:
OP
RAC68

RAC68

Darth Vader
Offline
Steve,

I contacted Digi-Key Electronics technical staff to get their recommendation and provided them with the specifications of our enclosure and Relay requirements (8-terminal DPDT 12VDC 10amp). I also indicated the units would be located within the engine compartment of an Healey. They indicated that, due to vibration and heat, I would require an automotive grade DPDT relay and they did not have a unit small enough to fit 2 within our enclosure. After searching, I have found few Automotive grade DPDT relays and am now beginning to think about implementing the plan with a lesser grade unit with fit being a primary selection criteria.

Have you had any luck?
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 

steveg

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Ray,
I ordered two of the eBay relays in the screenshot above. They should fit. Will confirm when I get them.

My left turn lights worked again after I loosened then tightened the screws on the 8 wires. I won't be taking the relay box apart until they poop out for sure.

If the relays prove to last not all that long, that argues for modifying the box upper mounting screws so it can be removed with the cold air hose in place.

Since my box works, sort of, on the bench I'll probably start by cleaning the points and see if that perks up the operation.
 

steveg

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Offline
I seem to recall that Dave Porter makes or at least replacement solid-state relay boxes.
Dave's email was: frogeye@porterscustom.com

Moss sells solid state relay boxes too. In my case I'd rather build one and be able to fix it if it poops out.

My mechanic said he's seen some issues with them.
 
OP
RAC68

RAC68

Darth Vader
Offline
Steve,

I have, and am waiting for, the same relays you have ordered. My choice was based upon the fact that, as I understand, they do not make Automotive Grade DPDT Relays as well as the difficulty of finding a DPDT 8-terminal relay small enough to fit 2 (plus wires) within the confines of the original Flasher Relay Box cover.

Since my Flasher Relay had worked quite reliably for many years, I decided to clean the internals of the unit (including the 3 sets of points) and follow the manual in their adjustment. This has become a very frustrating process and yielded little success. Although I will try it once again (while waiting for delivery), I recognize that achieving proper adjustment of the unit is quite questionable and chances of a failure in the reasonably near future are expanding expedientially.

I have also posted my thoughts on how to handle the removal of a forward section of the Cold Air Duct on the "4" Duct" thread and would appreciate your thoughts.

At this point, I see the implementation of the DPDT Relay design provides far greater reliability and security then that of my original and, therefor (at this time) intend to implement. I will also continue the search for a more robust electromagnetic relay as well as a SSR (Solid State Relay) that can handle the difficulties of the environment as well as the operational demand.

Ray(64BJ8P1)
 

steveg

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Ray,
Your plan for the duct sounds good. Would you be making the joining section out of, say, sheet steel, so it would be strong enough to have hose clamps keeping it centered between the front and rear hose sections? Aluminum would probably collapse under the hose clamps. I'd probably mock up the tube using aluminum flashing as proof-of-concept before making the tube from steel sheet.

On the flashers, the environment inside the metal cover might be kinder than the engine compartment in general. If you alter things so the box is relatively easy to remove from the car, then replacing a relay at some point might not be too much trouble.
 
OP
RAC68

RAC68

Darth Vader
Offline
Steve,

I was thinking of something like your tapered flashing unit permanently attached to the rear of the front hose section. The rear section would be held in place by a hose clamp on the bilge blower (located at the rear of the hose just in from of the cold air plenum) and held in position at the front by the fender positioning clamp screwed into the fender (no hose clamp). To install the front section, you would slide the tapered metal extension into the rear section of the hose and install the front onto the bulkhead flange with a clamp. Once in place, the front hose can be slightly expanded to take up any space and allow the tube to look continuous. Loosening of the fender clamp would allow for some movement along the full length of both front and rear hose sections to give sufficient clearance when dismounting the front section.

Just an idea as I haven't cut the tube and am a little hesitant to do so.
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
pbraun Moke America lost trademark name "MOKE" Other British Cars 0
Martinld123 Steering Wheel Alignment [Lost centering on steering box 1956 Austin Healey, BN2] Austin Healey 14
G TR2/3/3A Finding a long lost TR3 Triumph 4
Got_All_4 TR5/TR250 Lost Turn Signals Triumph 2
B Lost Title Woes Restoration & Tools 9
B Lost & Found FORUM Navigation Questions 3
Rut I’ve lost my mind, or what’s left of it! Spridgets 12
D Long Lost Midget Spridgets 0
E Long lost Sprite Spridgets 10
Northcoaster TR4/4A Lost info on person interested in my valve cover Triumph 1
steveg Steve Kingsbury has lost everything. Austin Healey 11
mgedit TR2/3/3A Lost Spark Triumph 26
Basil Lost a member - Blueghost Spridgets 9
P TR6 Lost posts Triumph 3
F Looking for Long Lost BJ-7 Austin Healey 2
DrEntropy We've apparently lost another one Racing 1
J Stator tube lost in steering box Austin Healey 11
YYCDave TR2/3/3A Lost Triumph Found Triumph 5
L TR2/3/3A Tr3a lost power go uphill Triumph 21
Boink Great day for a drive... even if briefly lost. Spridgets 0
Lukens TR2/3/3A Lost a hinge pin on my TR3 Triumph 3
T lost in the forms FORUM Navigation Questions 2
aeronca65t Lost a great friend of vintage racing. Racing 1
DNK I have compleately lost it... Triumph 73
wangdango Lost BN2? Austin Healey 1
bobmga62 Lost 4th gear at high revs Triumph 10
8 Lost 3rd & 4th Gear ?? Triumph 18
Jer Spridget's are like a lost Puppy... Spridgets 17
W Lost part, look for help and or options Triumph 9
S Wedge Lost stray, TR7 to 8 parts Triumph 11
T BJ7 -lost reverse, then 3rd/4th - advice please! Austin Healey 10
J I've lost Reverse! MG 13
78Z Lost luxury - Austin P Spotted 3
G 1500 Dual Carbs in, rims lost in space... Spridgets 12
R lost 1st and 2nd! Spridgets 10
tahoe healey lost boys Austin Healey 10
jvandyke I've lost 4th gear! Spridgets 36
bthompson I've lost second gear!! Spridgets 95
G Lost spark [ Best ignition coil for a stock '79] Spridgets 18
Stewart I think I've lost it MG 15
DNK Have We Lost a Member Triumph 30
G Lost part Triumph 10
TonyPanchot lost oil pressure help please Triumph 23
SCguy TR4/4A lost link... TR4 rear shock rebuild Triumph 4
T Have I lost my mind??????? MG 9
M Lost out on Bugeye Spridgets 37
rick_ingram Enthusiast lost MG 1
6 Looking for a lost part. Spridgets 5
Sopwith_Camel lost in transmition Spridgets 4
C lost! FORUM Navigation Questions 2

Similar threads

Top