Looking for examples of BE roll bars

I want to install a rollbar in our Bugeyes not for roll-overs, but to provide protection from getting t-boned in an intersection and to provide mounting points for a four point seat belt. The intention is a single loop from side to side, just low enough to allow the top to be put up without interference, and with a horizontal bar just above the rear deck lid providing additional lateral strength as well as a mounting point for four-point seat belts.
It seems that we have two options:
1 - bring the loop up through the rear deck and use rubber grommets to fill the gaps, with the bar triangulated to the body/frame inside the rear trunk area
2 - bring the loop up behind the seats and in front of the rear cockpit trim. The horizontal bar would be bent back over the rear deck to keep it clear of the seats and occupants. We'd have to switch to the later two piece hood supports as we wouldn't be able to access the existing storage 'tubes'. We've tried fitting using plastic pipe and there is adequate clearance.
Once we have the bar visualized/installed, I would also like to mount a head restraint in case of being rear-ended, but this will depend on the final arrangement, visibility, etc. etc.
It's been years since I last saw an example of Option 1 (which the body shop likes the concept of), and I've only found a single example on the Internet and it was pretty ugly.
I'd appreciate any photos anyone can forward, as well as any dimensional information. Thanks, Doug

Doug,
I personally like the double hump roll bars made for Cobra kit cars and it looks like they have the most options. I would think that a bar that mounts side to side and provides some lateral protection could be fabricated to bolt in.
Rut
https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1...j0i8i13i30j0i67j0i13i10j0i7i5i30.k/aMq/wpq2U=

If you really want an effective rollbar, do add a diagonal tube into a full width hoop. SCCA has good guidelines on building rollbar systems, although today is more towards cages for racing, not what you're probably wanting. Still go read those rules, (google: SCCA GCR rollbars. believe free to view) to get an idea of tubing, dias, bend radius, bracing... SCCA does require a cross tube between the vertical legs, so that might be spot for shoulder belts...however, all is very close with normal folks and original seats... Fore/aft bracing is also a challenge... as you indicated putting holes in deck might help, but sure lowers the future value of the car. For really tall guys, I've even seen some of the rear deck/cockpit removed, to allow things to go back...practical, but not "original".... depends so much on what you're will to do, to keep safer?

I've only had one street bugeye with a rollbar, and that was back in '68. It went from floor on each side, up in back of the top frame supports (had to remove those on race cars later..to get max width..)... Keeping under the top presented a very limited height... probably not all that great when you roll...

Another thought is to put a deck height system together, to keep the car "spread" as you wanted, all under the level of the deck ht, then make a removeable upper extension, or even those 2 separate hoops directly behind the seats, off that structure... Bolt everything in, don't weld in...so you can remove later...

Ah well, just some thinking.... take your time and look at as much as you can, before starting fabrication...

Good luck.

Bob L.

Please let us know how you go with this, thinking of something similar.

There are some pics of my Hobrecht bar installed and not on this page.
https://hamiltonedd.wixsite.com/bugeye/gallery

Thanks guys! I took a hood support into the body shop and we've basically decided that the hood comes down to steeply onto the back deck to use the 'through the deck' approach. I'll be fishing our other, complete BE out of storage in maybe two weeks and will head over to the shop with our piece of 1.5" plastic piping and discuss the 'behind the seats but in front of the rear deck approach'. And will ultimately advise as to whatever we do get down. Later, Doug

A few. Shelf support and rear angles. Top and tonneau fit fine.

Doug,
I have installed roll bars in most of my cars. The Bugeye is one that really doesn't lend itself to a good installation unless you can encroach into the cockpit or as you have suggested go into the boot shelf. This is a NOS Rollbar that was made back in the day in Alabama. I have the tag from the mfg and info where it was shipped Greyhound Bus.

It is a nice fit; however, the design is more of a show bar, no real protection. The first problem I saw with the Sprite design is what you are really bolting to.
I beefed mine up to have a solid base for the bar to attach on the floor. On the two small vertical bars that angle slightly rearward, they also need more to attach to.
Also for a street car, hitting your head against the bar is a real issue in a crash. Bottom line, because of the space to install seats and hating to cut up the body I have worked so hard to
bring back from the dead, I am going bar-less. I ride motorcycles and this will be a cruiser at best. I will have to take my chances.
I have a very substantial cage in my Dune Buggy. It does trade off side impact. It has a full tube steel chassis underneath it as well that ties into the cage. In the front hoop you cannot see one horizontal bar and two more vertical bars.

The Miata has a Dual Diagonal Brace that is an acceptable design for a Track. HPDE track time not Spec Miata or real racing.
My MGB has what is a show bar because I wanted some protection and I had room.

Some one had commented on the Small Hoops on Cobras. They are for all practical purposes more show than go.
This article gives a lot of ideas and information on roll bars. It is worth taking a look at how racing bodies look at them for safety.
https://www.dragzine.com/features/building-your-first-roll-cage-what-you-should-know/

Thanks for the shots and thoughts. I'm primarily after protection from being t-boned so the fore/aft bracing isn't as critical as if it was purposed as a roll bar - but we will add as much stiffening as possible (probably just a brace from the verticals back to the inner fender wells on each side, within the 'trunk' area, and with plates on each side of the sheet metal).
I'm hoping that the bar will be high enough, yet fit within the fabric top and its supports to avoid head impact. Ideally, we'll also add some form of vertically adjustable headrest to the tubing. And a horizontal brace across the top 'trunk' area, bent back to keep clear of seats etc etc, and we'll use it to hang 4 point seat belts from as well as potentially providing the mount for the head rest.
If there isn't adequate room, then maybe curve the 'rollbar' rearwards over the trunk and just use it to mount the head rest and to provide the lateral anti-pickup truck bracing. I'm waving my hands as I type this, so I hope you're watching!
I figure we'll dummy up some stuff with plastic pipe etc. and check for overall fit, and then move forward. Depending on how ugly the whole dang thing turns out to be! Doug

I obtained mine from a guy called Gordon at classic revival, he is a great source of info for frogeyes, This bar fits under the hood ‘just’ and I have padded out the cross member not that it would give much head protection in a heavy shunt. The feet of the bar are plated with one foot on the floor pan behind the seat the other angled on to the wheel arch it certainly stiffens the car up. And no welding or holes in the rear deck.

Thanks 4tec - would you have any pictures of a side view, showing the angle of the rollbar relative to the windscreen etc, and one of your 'plated feet' mountings? Thanks, Doug

Hi Doug I will take some photos next time I am with the car in the meantime I have a couple showing the hood up the cover has now streched nicely without any alterations.

bugedd said:

There are some pics of my Hobrecht bar installed and not on this page.
https://hamiltonedd.wixsite.com/bugeye/gallery

Click to expand...

Those are some great pics!