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Thread: Failure on Initial Engine Start After Rebuild

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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    Randy
    DId as you suggested, and I have my timing correct, I have good spark ( blue), however I did not notice fuel on the plugs or in the cylinder so now need to figure out what would cause carbs not to feed fuel. I do have good fuel pressure, and floats are full on both.

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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    AJ thanks will check tonight. Thanks for the tip on how to check this. I am new to SU carbs , so this helps. I did try some starting fluid, but its hard with the tight space to tell if I am getting any past the carb intake.

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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    Gadwhite--

    You do not have to be very precise with the starting ether--a shot into the air filters if they are fitted will do, or into the carb bore if they are off.
    If your engine has compression it will draw the ether into the combustion chamber and only a spark is necessary for you to get at least momentary combustion, whether or not there is any fuel in the carbs.

    If you get a momentary start and the car dies it is fuel delivery. Have you checked out your carb pistons for free operation? How about the throttle plates? Do they move when you open and close the throttles manually at the carbs?

    If there is no firing at all with the ether and you have compression at the spark plug holes it has to be ignition.

    Welcome to the world of AUSTIN-HEALEYS!
    Last edited by Michael Oritt; 03-09-2018 at 02:34 PM.

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    1954 Austin-Healey 100 Le Mans
    1958 Elva Courier (FOR SALE)
    1959 Elva MK IV Sports Racer
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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    Thanks everyone. I am getting gas into the intake, in fact it’s coming out of the drain lines on the manifold. I got a couple of backfires tonight, but no progress beyond that. I realized I didn’t have the brake booster line hooked up and plugged that for now. Right now I have the plugs pulled to let it air out they seem dry but cylinders 3 4 and 5 looked wet .

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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    If she is backfiring then turn that dizzy either way of the back firing point.



    Bob

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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    Backfiring? Sounds like a major timing issue.

    I'm betting your entire distributor may be loose.
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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    Your getting some good advice but since you make no indication you have compression I'd be pulling the valve cover off and watching the valves open and close completely , double checking that I had plenty of stem to rocker clearance at rest. It will then be easy then to determine if your initial firing order and timing is oriented properly . Fuel inside the engine could mean your fuel pressure is too high and overpowering your float needles ,if the float bowls are full , turn the fuel pump off until you can get the engine to run.

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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    If it is backfiring then you have compression, fuel to the combustion chamber and spark. You are, as suggested, probably getting the spark at the wrong time. Follow the steps to set up your timing correctly and you will likely have a running car.

    Best--Michael Oritt
    1954 Austin-Healey 100 Le Mans
    1958 Elva Courier (FOR SALE)
    1959 Elva MK IV Sports Racer
    1961 Ginetta G4

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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    It does now sound like timing but since you have checked that a number of times I believe you must have that right by now. So... my next step would be to get rid of that electronic ignition and put points in it. Those electronic modules will give you the exact same symptoms you are experiencing when they go bad.
    About TV Shows-
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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    Hm, but he says he's getting a spark. Seems odd to me that one of the front bank of cylinders has one wet plug and two of the back cylinders. I'd go for Brinkerhof's suggestion next and pull the valve cover and check valves and make doubly sure that the dizzy is installed correctly and not 180 degs out of phase. I'd also check the firing order again, plug leads and dizzy connections. The backfires suggest to me that there's a firing order problem.
    AJ

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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    Thanks again everyone. I will go through todays suggestions carefully and let you know what I get. I will also reach out to SOCAL AH club, and see if I can get one of the neighbors to come by and find what I'm missing ( I know it will be something stupid, and we will all have a good laugh).

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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    I'd be making sure the valves are opening and closing properly. Spark and fuel running out of the manifold will somehow cause an explosion but is certainly no proof of proper combustion nor cam timing .

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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    Has the distributor itself been disassembled recently?

    Danny

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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    Good point Danny

    When I took mine apart pieces of the star spring were floating around in the bottom. That thin low tension wire inside needed renewing and the earth lead from the condenser was moving in and out of the fixing screw.



    Bob

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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    Just read this entire thread through. You're getting good advice on a very puzzling problem. It sounds like you've checked various settings of distributor timing, and in my experience if you get reasonably close to the correct setting the engine will at least try to run. Yours doesn't even sound close to running.

    Since the engine was rebuilt, I would maybe check that your engine ground strap is present. It's hard to get a good spark without it. Beyond that, I think it might be time to start checking the cam timing.

    Keith
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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    Have you contacted the person who rebuilt the engine?

    Best--Michael Oritt
    1954 Austin-Healey 100 Le Mans
    1958 Elva Courier (FOR SALE)
    1959 Elva MK IV Sports Racer
    1961 Ginetta G4

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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    I was wondering if the distributor has been assembled incorrectly, drive dog not orientated with the rotor arm cam slot for example?

    Danny

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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    Until the OP has confirmed that the valve timing is correct and the valve clearances are correct then no amount of fuel ,spark and spinning the motor is going to make it start , fuel pressure means squat if its not getting into the cylinders on the correct engine cycle .
    Intake , compression , power , exhaust in that order and only in that order , change All the ignition components you like , its not going to fix it if the valve timing is wrong .
    "If it aint broke ....dont fix it "
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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    I once again repeat the old bromide: "If its got gas and got a spark, and they both arrive at about the same time - its got to start. If (a) you've got spark AT THE PLUGS,(take out a plug and ground it to the block while cranking it over), a squirt of ether won't make it fire and the plugs are wet, your timing is out somewhere. I'd contact the guy who built your engine. Also - Dave's suggestion is good. Put the points back in and try it. I s%%tcanned my Crane ignition some years ago and went back to points. One more crazy thing. Make sure your coil terminal isn't too close to your fuel line. My TR6 refused to start until I bent the line away from the coil.

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    Re: trouble on 1st start

    I've never heard that old bromide but I remember my grandad telling me you are wasting your time and everybody else's until you have compression and proper valve timing. It sucks air and fuel in , compresses it , ignites it and expels it. Suck comes before fuel and compression before ignition so there you go.

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