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Thread: New Camshaft Has Rust

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    Luke Skywalker KVH's Avatar
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    New Camshaft Has Rust

    I just opened my new camshaft from the big source. It had surface rust on four areas. I cleaned it up with acetone. Some tarnishing appears, but I can't feel any depth to the rust effect. Should I nevertheless send it back? It all appears cosmetic but I don't want to overlook what others might see as highly material. It seems to my that a few hits on the lifters and it's all the same anyway--but what thoughts do others have.

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    Darth Vader Rut's Avatar
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    Re: New Camshaft Has Rust

    Don't accept sub standard products from anyone, send it back.
    Rut
    Rut, '60 Bugeye, '70 MGB, '62 TR4, '66 TR4a IRS, '67 TR4a IRS, '68 TR4a IRS, '72 TR6

    When I went to school, they asked me what I wanted to be when I grew up. I wrote down 'happy'. They told me I didn't understand the assignment, and I told them they didn't understand life. John Lennon


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    Re: New Camshaft Has Rust

    What was wrong with the old camshaft......do you intend installing a new cam into the old cam bearings ?

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    Luke Skywalker KVH's Avatar
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    Re: New Camshaft Has Rust

    Quote Originally Posted by malbaby View Post
    What was wrong with the old camshaft......do you intend installing a new cam into the old cam bearings ?
    I wasn't planning on pulling the engine. My old cam had two bad lobes, and I'm fairly certain it's because I failed to conduct proper break-in when I rebuilt the engine "in-situ" 14 years ago. I was getting loud tappet banging for months and decided the check the car and lifters. Sure enough, two of each were bad. Eyeballing the cam bearings isn't showing anything, and most people here seem to believe that cam bearings are fairly resilient to wear and even abuse. Pulling the engine is another bunch of hours and expense I'm not sure I'm ready to invest, endure and incur right now.

    Do you feel strongly I should?

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    Luke Skywalker KVH's Avatar
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    Re: New Camshaft Has Rust

    Quote Originally Posted by KVH View Post
    I wasn't planning on pulling the engine. My old cam had two bad lobes, and I'm fairly certain it's because I failed to conduct proper break-in when I rebuilt the engine "in-situ" 14 years ago. I was getting loud tappet banging for months and decided the check the car and lifters. Sure enough, two of each were bad. Eyeballing the cam bearings isn't showing anything, and most people here seem to believe that cam bearings are fairly resilient to wear and even abuse. Pulling the engine is another bunch of hours and expense I'm not sure I'm ready to invest, endure and incur right now.

    Do you feel strongly I should?
    I'll take it into my crank shop and see what they say. I'll report back.

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    Re: New Camshaft Has Rust

    Cams get surface rust, that you never see, while sitting in an engine that doesn't run for a month or two. In general it is not great, but seems to cause little harm. That said, I would expect a new cam to be plenty greased up and free from rust. If you had a break in issue with the old cam, starting with a rusted one will not improve the odds of a good break in on this one.

    That probably tells you nothing. If it were mine, I would use it if I were in a hurry to get rolling...but use the GM cam break in lube on all the lobes and lifters. If I were in no hurry, then I'd return it for a clean cam.
    John

    1955 TR2

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    Yoda
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    Re: New Camshaft Has Rust

    I hate returning stuff, but I do all the time. Why don’t these guys realize we are fussy-- these cars belong to us-- not someone else --not that we would do crappie work, but it is a hobby for most of us not a business and we care probably too much. I just spent 25.00 for shipping and handling back and forth on parts I will not get!!!!!
    Frustrated

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    Re: New Camshaft Has Rust

    IMHO...if pulling the engine is not an option, then all you can do is install a new cam [or have your old one rebuilt] and hope for a good outcome.
    If you were to pull the engine, I would have the old bearings remetalled and installed, then line bored to suit the camshaft, all by a dedicated engineering workshop

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