An oil volume question and an oil pressure question

Hello-
I haven't posted in a long time, but I am here almost daily reading all of the great questions and answers. Thanks to everyone who participates in BCF.

I have a 1966 3000 BJ8 which had its engine rebuilt about a year ago and 500 miles ago. The car lives at my Mom's (she has a garage and I unfortunately don't), so I don't get to drive it too often. I had two oil related questions which I was hoping to get some advice on:

1) The car has an aftermarket spin-on oil filter (K&N HP 2009) and oil cooler. I needed to add 7.75 u.s. quarts to reach the upper fill line on the dipstick. This is a bit high compared to other volumes/capacities mentioned on this forum and elsewhere. So my question is: does anyone change their interpretation of the dipstick when they have an oil filter with an anti-drainback valve? Assuming the valve works, some oil is now trapped where it wouldn't have been when the dipstick was designed. Regardless of the actual number of quarts, having the oil sump level at "full" with my oil filter will mean that the oil level is higher than designed when the car is in operation. Since I am using a filter with anti-drainback, should I then compensate for the stored oil volume by not filling up the sump as high?

2) Because I don't drive the car very often, it is sometimes a little challenging to start initially. It got me wondering if it is better to always build up a little oil pressure before letting the car engine fire. If I don't use the choke, I could run the starter for the required time to build oil pressure on the gauge (I would guess 10-15 seconds). Then I could use the choke to get the car to start soon thereafter. So here, I guess my question is: which causes more wear on an engine... (a) rotating the engine with the starter to build oil pressure, and then starting the engine afterward or (b) starting the engine as fast as possible to reduce the time for wear to occur? If (b) is better, I might start to use starter fluid to speed up the process. If (a) is better, then I will continue with standard starting procedures, during which oil pressure always builds up before I can get the engine to fire.

Thanks in advance.

Answer to #1, 7.75 qt. is how much oil My stock set-up including canister filter takes. It's a big oil pan. #2 wear on start-up is gonna happen if the car sits long enough for the oil to drain off. Starting with oil pressure established is preferred but longer cranking with the starter is still going to result in some wear. The only real fix would be an engine pre-oiling system if You can't start the car often enough to keep a film of oil on the rocker shaft, engine bearings etc.

Shortsguy--

#1--You need to allow for the additional oil volume of both the oil cooler and lines to and from it. The normal capacity of the system, including the filter, should be maintained by the anti-drainback valve when the engine is off. I think you simply go by the level on the dipstick and disregard what volume it takes to fill the system.

#2--The only real solution is a pre-lubrication system such as an Accusump, and it offers the additional advantage of maintaining pressure (if only for a brief period of time) in the event of sudden loss of oil pressure as from a broken oil line or internal pump and also when oil is being thrown about in the sump by centrifugal force and the pump gulps air, etc. Accusumps are not cheap and the tank and its plumbing consumes considerable space. My advice is to not worry and simply start your engine in the conventional manner avoiding high revs at least until oil pressure rises to normal max and, ideally, oil temp comes up a bit.

I agree with Michael on both accounts.

Awesome advice guys. Thank you for the help.

Drive it several miles after starting to get up to temperature and get the moisture out of the oil as well. I have heard at least 10 miles. Just starting it and running it for a short period is not good for it either.