Engine Block

Well, I put a couple hammer dents on the block (head gasket surface) during disassembly. Is this fatal?
I read somewhere that some JB Weld can be used as a repair medium for this. Is that feasible?
How much, if any can be skimmed off these blocks?
Thanks.
Douglas

Douglas

May not be a major issue - are the dents near any oil or waterways - if they are out on their own surrounded by good metal, you might get away with a smear of a good gasket goo. We have been experiencing problems with some head gaskets - around one of the water holes near the front and a smear of goo has done the trick.



Bob

Bob,
The dings are near a cylinder.
The machine shop called me today to tell me it's probably not repairable. I'm trying salvage this block.

I have decked the blocks with success. I can't remember how much I took off. You are just raising the compression, so as long as the pistons don't go too high, and the valves too low, it should work.

They can repair a crack but not an indentation? Unless it's at the rim of the cylinder, there has to be something. Call a few more shops.

Do you have any pictures of the damage? Also, which year of block is it?

Laser Welding should do the job.

Nowadays the filler rods used can cater for almost anything,

Check it out..............here in the UK there are mobile guys that will come to you.

Thanks for the suggestions. 1965. This is a second engine. I have 1962 tricarb.
I'll looking into laser welding and also brazing. And probably try another machine shop.
Maybe I'll learn how to post photos...
Douglas

I believe hot metal welding could be done but it has its risks. Years ago I repaired the cylinder head of an MG Midget using J-B Weld. It's a cold bonding material. I had just gotten back a cylinder head from a shop that did an excellent valve and rebuild job on it. As I was just about to apply it to the top of the cylinder block I noticed a pit in the bottom surface of the head right next to one of the cylinder bores. Upon inspection I discovered that it was directly in line with the sealing ring that many head gaskets have around the cylinder bores. An the pit hole was in diameter about the size of the dimensional width of the sealing ring. I was concerned that the pit was just large enough and positioned at just the right spot that the compression of the cylinder could blow thru the pit, undercut the sealing ring and cause a compression leak that would cause a complete failure of the gasket. I discussed it with the shop and they said " welding it up had risks" possible head distortion. I took it home and decided to fill it with JB Weld. After curing, I filed the area flat with hand files. Used a metal straight edge to verify flatness and assembled the engine. I know this engine to this day, it has been almost 20 years and it still runs perfectly.

Well in cases like this it seems like the old adage " An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"

Have the defect removed by a machinist resurfacing the block just a bit.

Good advice. Thanks everyone. If this was my only block, I would try to skim it or repair it.
Instead, I'll change plans and rebuild my 1962 motor. And try not to damage it during disassembly. Are the heads identical?

Douglas

I am sure that we are all dying to know, so that we will not make the same mistake, how the **** did you manage to damage the surface near the bore on a strip down. We will not tell anyone - promise



Bob

Well Bob, just between you and me, the pistons were all stuck. As was the crankshaft. It took a lot of persuasion to pound out the pistons.
Two con rods became wedged against the crank and needed to be pushed back into their bores.
That's when I got careless and didn't flip the block back over. I didn't think cast iron was soft enough to dent so easily.
I have decided to rebuild my 1962 engine instead, and try not to botch it. Anyone need 1965 engine parts?

So, I followed Keoke's advice and
decked the block. Eleven thousanths.
Not too pricey. Planning on balancing, then fitting new pistons.
Still haven't found anywhere local to lighten the flywheel.

I bought MGC bucket lifters and contacted Smith Bros Pushrods. They had more questions than I had answers. Is this conversion really worth the trouble?