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Thread: Pressing in silenblocs

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    Yoda
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    Pressing in silenblocs

    Pressing in silenblocs, the machines shops are not around much anymore, so I thought I would try pressing in my own silenblocs. I have a porto- power and an old drill press from the 40s that looks beefy. I am thinking maybe some angle iron or channel steel assembled like box on and around the drill press table with the porto- power sitting in the middle? I thought I would ask the forum and Usually Suspects for ideas.

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    Jedi Hopeful
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    Re: Pressing in silenblocs

    When I had to do this we took the link to a local auto mechanic who had a hydraulic press. He pressed them in in about 5 minutes and didn't even charge. Got lucky I guess. You may have to pay but it shouldn't be much.

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    Jedi Knight
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    Re: Pressing in silenblocs

    I would start by putting the silent blocs on the shelf and getting the poly bushing setup.I still don't see how they allow the needed 90 degree or so rotation,if I remember correctly,when the rubber is attached to inside and outside,but I must be missing something.
    But usually in the absence of a press a big vice with washers and sockets or apiece of threaded rod with washers and sockets will usually do the trick.
    Tom
    Edit,sorry threaded rod wont work for SBlocs only bushings.

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    Great Pumpkin TR3driver's Avatar
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    Re: Pressing in silenblocs

    Threaded rod would work I think, if you used two and some bars or plates to go around the joint. Just scraps of 2x4 wood would probably do. Drill a hole in one for the tapered stud to stick out. IIRC I just used the bench vise and a deep socket.

    Be sure you have the steering centered when you tighten the nuts. The bonded rubber inside the Silentbloc will deflect for the 40 degrees or so each side of center, but much more than that will tear it from the pin fairly quickly.

    I got tired of the short life of the repop silentblocs, so I converted to the brass/SS units sold by BFE. If I were starting over today, I'd go for the Delrin/SS units sold by Joe Alexander (also available through TRF and eBay).
    Randall
    56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
    71 Stag LE1473L waiting engine rebuild
    71-72-73 Stag LE2013LBW waiting OD gearbox rebuild

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    Yoda Geo Hahn's Avatar
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    Re: Pressing in silenblocs

    I used the Delrin from TRF and pressed them in using a vice and some sockets.

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    Yoda
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    Re: Pressing in silenblocs

    I got them out by pressing out the center stud with a vice and then using the thread all and washer set up for the bushing. I have a set of those Delrin type, but it seems like the jury is kinda out on their improvement feature. I think it was Geo a while back who used them and did not notice any improvement, perhaps even a minus. They sure look like they would help a ton, but maybe they move too freely! Thanks Randall on the heads up about having the steering straight when installing.

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    Yoda Geo Hahn's Avatar
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    Re: Pressing in silenblocs

    Quote Originally Posted by sp53 View Post
    ... I have a set of those Delrin type, but it seems like the jury is kinda out on their improvement feature. I think it was Geo a while back who used them and did not notice any improvement, perhaps even a minus...
    I'm okay with them - my issue was they made the steering a bit stiff because they did not align well and were binding. Randall straightened me out by having me loosen the mount for the idler pulley and letting it relax a bit (re-align) then tightening it back up.

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    Yoda
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    Re: Pressing in silenblocs

    Now I remember the post about loosening up the idler arm and why the frame holes and bolt holes had play. I had the same kinda issue when I had a 1961 with the split steering. After I rebuilt the shaft and box, the steering was tighter and not in a good way, so I loosen the sections up and they seemed to align and balance out then retightened.

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