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Need Advice On Refinishing A Bugeye Hardtop

Randyz

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Hi guys. I've got two factory hardtops for a pair of cars I'm restoring. Both have good glass and no damage. Obviously all the gaskets will need to be replaced. I know where to get all of that stuff. Since I have no experience working with fiberglass, I need advice on stripping the old finishes. One of the tops appears to have been sanded and painted with gray primer. The other has a cracked-up paint or gel coat on it. I'm thinking that both tops need to be completely stripped. I don't know anything about gel coat. Should I use a chemical stripper, and orbital sander, or sand by hand. Is a gel coat required or can I just spray with an epoxy primer? I'm also unsure about how to finish the inside surface. Any suggestions? I found a third hardtop locally (here in Dallas, TX) that I may purchase. If I end up restoring three of these hardtops, I'd like to do it right and perhaps sell one or two.
 

drooartz

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I'm curious to see what you find out. I've got a hardtop for my Bugeye as well that will need some work (but is in generally sound condition). Won't get to it any time soon, but it is on the list.
 

Bayless

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I'm not an expert on fiberglass but I am pretty darn sure that any chemical that will remove gelcoat will also dissolve the polyester resin that holds the fibers together. Also, if you remove the gelcoat you will probably find a rather rough surface under it that will take a lot of filler (or primer/surfacer) to smooth for painting.
 

nomad

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I've been in the fiberglass business and am currently working on a Lotus. IMO the only way to do this is to sand into the gel coat..no stripper. After you rough sand the top you will have plenty of spider cracks through the gel coat and the easiest way to deal with them is to acquire some fiberglass "tissue" and coat all areas with spider cracks with the tissue. The tissue is just that...a fiberglass mat that is very thin and looks just like bathroom tissue. Not every supplier has it and if you can't find it I'll have to look up my supplier...don't recall them right now. After that you will have to skim coat with polyester filler, prime with epoxy primer, high build, and paint. I have a BE hard top half done and a factory hardtop for a Mk2 Midget that is in the waiting right now as well. Lotus is getting my focus just now.

Kurt.

Kurt.
 

Gerard

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Chemical stripper will make a soggy mess.

Kurt doesn't need my acknowledgement, he clearly knows the right way. This is exactly how I have done it as well. On the one that is on my race car, due to the fact is was busted/cracked in several places, and had more flex than I cared for, I went one step further by taking some foam insulation, the type used to insulate 1/2" water pipe, glued each half on the inside (lengthwise) from front to back. I then laid fiberglass cloth over the foam and finished up with some Metalglaze for a smooth finish. The exterior was epoxy premiered and painted to match the car. You can't flex the top section now if you tried, so after more than 10 years, not the slightest sign of a crack or spiderweb.

Kurt, which Lotus... Europa or Elan... or?

BugeyeTopCU.jpg

I've been in the fiberglass business and am currently working on a Lotus. IMO the only way to do this is to sand into the gel coat..no stripper. After you rough sand the top you will have plenty of spider cracks through the gel coat and the easiest way to deal with them is to acquire some fiberglass "tissue" and coat all areas with spider cracks with the tissue. The tissue is just that...a fiberglass mat that is very thin and looks just like bathroom tissue. Not every supplier has it and if you can't find it I'll have to look up my supplier...don't recall them right now. After that you will have to skim coat with polyester filler, prime with epoxy primer, high build, and paint. I have a BE hard top half done and a factory hardtop for a Mk2 Midget that is in the waiting right now as well. Lotus is getting my focus just now.

Kurt.

Kurt.
 

Bob Claffie

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When I stripped my Corvette many years ago it was by 1/3 razor blade, 1/3 DA sander and 1/3 paint stripper. NO after effects from the stripper as long as it was completely neutralized (soapy water) . I'm going on the assumption that English fiberglass and American fiberglass have a similar chemical structure.
 

apbos

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image.jpg
When I stripped my Corvette many years ago it was by 1/3 razor blade, 1/3 DA sander and 1/3 paint stripper. NO after effects from the stripper as long as it was completely neutralized (soapy water) . I'm going on the assumption that English fiberglass and American fiberglass have a similar chemical structure.
That is how I did my Hardtop in 2008. (Search hardtop in the restoration forum) . Eight years later it still looks great. A layer or two of Glass on the underside is easy to do and stiffens the top. Originally the glass was not very thick. Tap Plastics was my source for materials ( local and national) . Interlux Brightside boat paint and primer are a perfect match for the original white and is made for fiberglass boats. I also rolled it on. Lots of wetsanding, but excellent results.
Regards
Paul
 

buzzman

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Randyz, I have a factory hardtop for my BE that also needs restoring. Where did you find your gaskets?

Buzz
 

nomad

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Gerard, I'm working on an S1 Elan just now.

I've heard of using pipe insulation as a stiffening rib form. I'm sure that would work well.

For stiffening I like to use R Max urethane foam insulation board. You can cut it and work it easily with course sand paper and make about any shape you want. Glass over it and you will really stiffen things up. Don't try to use polystyrene pink insulation board or it will melt instantly when in contact with the resin.

Kurt.
 

nomad

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When I was in my teens and twenty's I made fiberglass gas tanks and seats to to fit a friends custom frame for flat track motorcycles. Making the plugs and molds for those parts I don't believe was nearly as time consuming as repairing old fiberglass. I feel the pain for any one attempting it.
Also wanted to mention that if you are very lucky or if you use some of the less caustic paint removal solvents and get them flushed in time you might be able to get away with it but I wouldn't count on it.

Kurt.
 
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Randyz

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Yep, I was going to order from McGregor British Car Parts in Canada. I've heard good things about them. Good luck!
 

JPSmit

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Yep, I was going to order from McGregor British Car Parts in Canada. I've heard good things about them. Good luck!

Great product and a very nice guy but timely communications aren't always his strong suit.
 
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