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Bulletproofing your Healey

Michael Oritt

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While reading the current string entitled "Car just stops, electrical?" I got to thinking about how often we are covering the same ground, talking about what parts are most prone to fail--and their modern replacements.

I realize that some, whether because they are hard-heads, masochists or into Concours, etc, like to keep things as close to original as possible, which is of course their option. Others, such as myself, do not like to fix the same thing more than two or three times and opt for parts substitutions/upgrades that increase the car's reliability, whether or not performance is improved.

So, whether to aid the uninitiated or simply as an intellectual exercise, it might be neat to compose a list of upgrades that many of us have installed--and perhaps when it is sufficiently evolved it can become a "Parked Topic".

In any case I will kick things off with things I have done over the years, in no particular order of importance, to lend more reliability and prevent annoying failures:

1. Electronic ignition to eliminate points and capacitor problems (In my case a Mallory Unilite)
2. Upgraded coil (In my case a Lucas Sports though when it fails I will definitely replace it with a Bosch Blue)
3. Removing or replacing the ignition grounding switch (I replaced mine with a Hella marine grade model with removable key)
4. Electronic and back-up fuel pump--to eliminate points (I installed a Double-header which also adds redundancy in the pump section)
5. Grose jets and modern floats in carb bowls
6. Multi-circuited fuse panels
7. Gear reduction starter
8. Modern radiator fan and/or Coolant recovery system
9. Replace generator with alternator and change car's polarity to negative ground
10. Replace stock oil filter with spin-on unit--and avoid cheap filters such as the FRAM's in favor of K&N, etc.

I'll stop here and I hope this exercise is of interest to some others.
 
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Keoke

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While reading the current string entitled "Car just stops, electrical?" I got to thinking about how often we are covering the same ground, talking about what parts are most prone to fail--and their modern replacements.

I realize that some, whether because they are hard-heads, masochists or into Concours, etc, like to keep things as close to original as possible, which is of course their option. Others, such as myself, do not like to fix the same thing more than two or three times and opt for parts substitutions/upgrades that increase the car's reliability, whether or not performance is improved.

So, whether to aid the uninitiated or simply as an intellectual exercise, it might be neat to compose a list of upgrades that many of us have installed--and perhaps when it is sufficiently evolved it can become a "Parked Topic".

In any case I will kick things off with things I have done over the years, in no particular order of importance, to lend more reliability and prevent annoying failures:

1. Electronic ignition to eliminate points and capacitor problems (In my case a Mallory Unilite)
2. Upgraded coil (In my case a Lucas Sports though when it fails I will definitely replace it with a Bosch Blue)
3. Removing or replacing the ignition grounding switch (I replaced mine with a Hella marine grade model with removable key)
4. Electronic fuel pump--again to eliminate points (I installed a Double-header which also adds redundancy in the motor section)
5. Grose jets and modern floats in carb bowls
6. Multi-circuited fuse panels
7. Gear reduction starter
8. Modern radiator fan and/or Coolant recovery system

I'll stop here and I hope this exercise is of interest to some others.

Pretty good start,BUT!

Now we ain't got nuthin more to talk about :friendly_wink:
 
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Michael Oritt

Michael Oritt

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I forgot about that--early on I switched to negative ground and installed a Leece-Neville alternator. It has an external voltage regulator for easy replacement and came with a two-piece pulley so I could keep the heavy fan belt used on 100's. I'll add that to the list.
 

Jerry

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I did your list with two more improvements
1. spin on oil filter
2. air conditioning, it gets really hot here in the summer. But I find that I don't use it much because it really puts a drag on the engine. And in order for it to really work, I would have to roll up the windows and put the top on. I have never run the air Conditioner with those up.
 

Jim 58 BN6

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Although I'm a long-time gearhead, and have been fighting - I mean working on - British and Italian cars for years, I'm neophyte with Healeys. Michael's suggestion is a good one. Personally, I want to build a nice, reliable car, and I welcome any advice that will add to reliability, especially if the mods involve bolt-on items that can be reversed (or are invisible). I don't want to waste the time making well-known mistakes, or not improving known weak points - I'm not 20 anymore!

Putting these specific topics in an easily-accessible parked topic area would be helpful. Search works OK, but sometimes it's hard to figure out exactly what to search for, and sometimes someone posts something that I hadn't thought of that makes me think "that's a good idea!".

But, Keoke makes good a point as well...
 
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Bob_Spidell

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I've had Grose Jets in my BJ8 for at least 20 years; no problems whatsoever. However, I recently tried them in my BN2 and had no luck (the 'stopper' ball would stick in its seat). Same old story, I think: company got sold to someone who doesn't give a hoot for quality (like County).
 
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Michael Oritt

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Jerry--

I am going to add the spin-on oil filter, one of the first mods I performed. However, and with respect, I am going to leave off adding AC--this is not a reliability item and beyond the pale for many.
 
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Michael Oritt

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Rick--

I am glad that this concept has drawn interest and while I don't mind editing my post to keep the list current I hesitate to be the self-appointed arbiter of what I feel should and should not be included. I can see that some items, while not directly related to reliability, should be llisted--such ass spin-on oil filter as it makes servicing easier and thus relates to reliability. I am going to walk around convenience items such as AC, cup holders, speed controllers, cigarette-lighters and the like.

I was originally going to list "electric fan" and will add it though there are many who feel they are unproductive and even counterproductive. I'll also put down "Upgraded radiator". I dunno about brake drum balancing--no one I know of ever broke down alongside the road because of brake shudder.

This topic might best be the basis for an article that could appear in one of the National Healey mags--I am sure there have been some in the past but many folks newer to Healey ownership might benefit by a current article. Rick, you write for the AHCA mag so perhaps you will pick up this ball at some point--hint, hint!!!
 

roscoe

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It is more a item safety than reliability but I'd add 3 point seat belts to the list. I regard the avoidance of a crushed sternum in a minor collision a matter of maintaining reliability of the driver more so than the vehicle. I have installed aircraft 4 point belts that have the shoulder harness anchored to the vertical in the rear axle well. The shoulder harness is a "Y" type and the single web is threaded through a slot I cut behind the seat. It is right at my shoulder height so there would be no spine compression such as can be caused by anchoring to the floor. I just put eyebolts in the floor aft of the seat pans for the lap portion. The only inconvenience is that if you have the top installed and want to put it up or down you have to rout the shoulder harness over or under as appropriate. I'd also add front disc brakes for those that don't have them, again mostly for safety but they do yield more reliable stopping power. An engine oil cooler has also served me well in the summer. I've also cut my transmission cover in half (laterally) to make it very easy to remove. I'm sure my restraint on the windshield bow for the soft top may make some cringe but it is completely removable. The nuts for the RH top latch once disappeared and the latch almost came off in my hand when I went to put the top down. I do not want my top blowing back at 70 on the freeway. Has that ever happened to anyone? The digital volt meter is ugly and out of place but it was about $10 and took 20 minutes to install and gives me great peace of mind, not to mention useful information and is simpler/safer than an amp meter. It is a huge step to take for aesthetic and financial reasons but I am much more comfortable with my minilite style wheels. No tubes, no more broken spokes. Good subject for a post, thank you for starting it Michael.

top restraint.jpgvoltmeter.jpg
seatbelt.jpg
 

Jim 58 BN6

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I am going to walk around convenience items such as AC, cup holders, speed controllers, cigarette-lighters and the like

Aw man! I was just about to start a "Killer Mobile Audio System" thread!

Seriously, I think your suggestion has a lot of merit, and would be a big time-saver.
 

Bob_Spidell

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Jerry--

I am going to add the spin-on oil filter, one of the first mods I performed. However, and with respect, I am going to leave off adding AC--this is not a reliability item and beyond the pale for many.

Note if you get the 'flat disk' type adapter--from Moss and some other vendors--the allen-head screws that come with the kit probably won't work on your BN1(?). The kit comes with two sets of screws--one SAE fine and one SAE coarse--but your block will likely need the BSF screws (sold separately). The instructions that come with the kit point out that BN1s and some BN2s used the BSF screws, and our BN2 is one of those. This car is a factory 100M, and it also had a discrepancy in that the distributor wasn't the 'typical' one fitted to 100Ms, but was an outlier that was apparently fitted to some cars at the factory (and documented). Parts bin production at its finest, apparently.

Edit: I just realized you have already installed the spin-on adapter, but I'm going to leave this comment as is in case anyone else with a BN1/2 is considering installing one.
 

BJ8Healeys

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1. Convert to negative ground (makes life simpler all-around).
2. Change to alternator (took me three days in Washington, DC to find a shop that could repair my generator).
3. Spin-on oil filter (it didn't take long to get tired of the mess on the driveway during an oil change)
4. Two fuel pumps, switchable between them or both off (has come in handy a couple times when on the road and the primary fuel pump sputtered).
5. Extra fuse box (makes troubleshooting for a blown upper fuse quicker and easier).
6. Adjustable mechanical brake switch (modern pressure switches last only a year or two).
7. Silicone brake fluid (close to zero corrosion of the hydraulic components, and no paint damage from spills).
8. Towing eyes for empty holes in front end of frame rails (just in case).
9. Mallory Dual-Point distributor (no Lucas or aftermarket bad rotors. No issues at all in 25 years).
10. Grose Jets in carbs (fixed a persistent carb overflow problem, and I've never had any problem with Grose Jets).
11. In-line fuel filter (just in case).
12. Modern radiator with more cooling capacity, plus Texas Kooler fan and 190-deg. sleeved thermostat (overheating problems permanently solved).
13. Lempert 3.545 gear set (better gas mileage and more comfortable high-speed cruising).
14. Driving lights, with switch for manual operation (daytime running lights) or automatic operation with high beams (almost never used due to volume of traffic 24 hours a
day now).
15. Audible turn signal indicator warning (as a reminder).
16. O.K., brake drum balancing (doing this last spring removed the last bit of vibration from my car. Improved high-speed cruising).

All wiring modifications necessary to install hardware were done with adapter wires and not cut into the original harness (all mods can be reversed).
 

Jerry

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I think one more thing should be added, but I have not done it yet. My convertible top fits well but driving at speed, it needs a latch in the middle of the windshield. Should have had one from the factory in my opinion. Someone out there has already done this and I keep looking for the link everytime I do have the top up. Not very often, so I don't remember when I get home.
Jerry
 

Patrick67BJ8

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I purchase new headlights from BCS with 20 watt halogen lights inside them for daytime running. No switch to worry about turning On or Off.
 
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Michael Oritt

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Folks--

Remember the topic is about Bulletproofing the Healey so that it will not be found abandoned alongside the road. All suggestions made are great but many relate to safety or convenience/comfort issues. If someone wants to start another topic that's fine, but I'm going to try to keep this list to things that affect the day-to-day operation of the car.

So that we all don't have to go back to the first post I am restating it with relevent additions made:

1. Install electronic ignition to eliminate points and capacitor problems (Mallory Unilite)
2. Upgraded coil (In my case a Lucas Sports though when it fails I will definitely replace it with a Bosch Blue)
3. Remove the ignition grounding switch or replace with a reliable alternative (I installed a Hella marine grade model with removable key)
4. Electronic fuel pump with back-up or Double-header pump with selector switch.
5. Grose jets and modern floats in carb bowls
6. Multi-circuited fuse panels
7. Gear reduction starter
8. Modern radiator fan and/or Coolant recovery system
9. Alternator with negative ground system
10. Spin-on oil filter
11. Inline serviceable fuel fuel filter.
12. Upgraded radiator
13. Auxiliary electric fan for above

Keep those suggestions coming!
 

HealeyRick

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Rick--



This topic might best be the basis for an article that could appear in one of the National Healey mags--I am sure there have been some in the past but many folks newer to Healey ownership might benefit by a current article. Rick, you write for the AHCA mag so perhaps you will pick up this ball at some point--hint, hint!!!

Just my thoughts. A list of improvements on its own has value, but to many who are unfamiliar with Healeys or new to the marque, the next questions become how it's done, what's it cost, where do I get the parts and what are the downsides. It's a good subject for collarboration and listening to the experiences of others. On the forum, it's possible to link a suggested mod to internet sources describing how the mod is done. I think that would be really useful.

Also, kicking it around on the forum first lets people express their experiences with the mod. For example, you recommended grose jets. Others, including me, have had bad experiences with the new ones and I'd never recommend them. That's the kind of thing that comes out when you can share experiences.

Maybe this could be a sticky, with inividual lists for reliability, convenience, appearance and safety.
 

glemon

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If it is truly a reliability list I would argue the electric fan, the stock unit seems to be pretty reliable as long as the crank is turning....

Kidding aside, though Healeys do have a tendency to run a little warm, proper tuning (mixture, ignition timing) and mechanical condition (block, radiator and head not clogged with crud) are the best, though not cheapest or easiest, way to deal with overheating issues.
 
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