Continuing clutch problems

Las Sunday we had made a new attempt to free the clutch by towing the car. In 4 th and 3 rd gear. Unfortunately the clutch is still not working, so it seems, that this isn’t up to now the way to success.

Initially the clutch pedal had no pressure at ( most likely due to air pockets ) when we finally had the air out we had a decent pressure on the clutch pedal but the clutch is still not operating the way it should be .

When using the clutch pedal the pushrod in the slave cylinder push the lever 13 mm ( 13, millimeter, = 0.511811 inch ) and wonder, if this is enough. What can all still be wrong with the clutch?


More and more I got the feeling, that the clutch need te be taken apart completely, if so is there advice how to do this in the best possible way. I will open a new thread with this question, so it will be easy to search for other forum members

[h=2]Before taken the clutch completely apart are there any ideas what could else be wrong with the clutch

As reference

Car was put away several years ago with a working clutch

From sitting the brake and clutch cylinder were stuck so new repair kits installed

The lever engages aprox 1/2 inch see post below ( but is this enough) You have to press the clutch pedal quite firm more than I was used before in the past when it was still working

I wonder, if someone has experienced something similair before or maybe we have to re do the whole operation with the clutch before taken it apart completely


Continuing clutch problems[/h]

Las Sunday we had made a new attempt to free the clutch by towing the car. In 4 th and 3 rd gear. Unfortunately the clutch is still not working, so it seems, that this isn’t up to now the way to success.

Initially the clutch pedal had no pressure at ( most likely due to air pockets ) when we finally had the air out we had a decent pressure on the clutch pedal but the clutch is still not operating the way it should be .

When using the clutch pedal the pushrod in the slave cylinder push the lever 13 mm ( 13, millimeter, = 0.511811 inch ) and wonder, if this is enough. What can all still be wrong with the clutch?


More and more I got the feeling, that the clutch need te be taken apart completely, if so is there advice how to do this in the best possible way. I will open a new thread with this question, so it will be easy to search for other forum members​

Hi
This is a shot in the dark but it could be that the pilot/spigot bush is binding or seized to the shaft. I had the same issue with my MGA. Clutch worked but wouldn't separate the gearbox from the engine. Unfortunately this doesn't help you because you still have to pull the box to fix it. A $5 part. Good luck with it
Matthew

oxford said:

Hi
This is a shot in the dark but it could be that the pilot/spigot bush is binding or seized to the shaft. I had the same issue with my MGA. Clutch worked but wouldn't separate the gearbox from the engine. Unfortunately this doesn't help you because you still have to pull the box to fix it. A $5 part. Good luck with it
Matthew

Click to expand...

This is interesting! In that case it may be possible to remove the trans up to the point where instead of pulling the trans, you undo the bell housing bolts most of the way and pull the trans backwards a quarter inch or so. That would separate the first motion shaft from the pilot bush.

If the car has been sitting for quite a while, it's possible that the constant pressure of the clutch springs on the clutch disc, along with surface corrosion, has bonded the disc to the pressure plate. If this is the case, sometimes it's possible to break it free by jacking up the rear wheels and starting the car in gear, revving the engine and slamming on the brakes. Stop the car, put it in reverse, repeat the process.
This worked for me with an MG Midget that had been stored outside for several years.

BJ8Healeys said:

If the car has been sitting for quite a while, it's possible that the constant pressure of the clutch springs on the clutch disc, along with surface corrosion, has bonded the disc to the pressure plate. If this is the case, sometimes it's possible to break it free by jacking up the rear wheels and starting the car in gear, revving the engine and slamming on the brakes. Stop the car, put it in reverse, repeat the process.
This worked for me with an MG Midget that had been stored outside for several years.

Click to expand...

A couple of very old tricks that might work for you:
Have someone sit in the car with the clutch about halfway in, the car in top gear and have someone else rock the car, this may break the disk free if it is stuck.
If the problem is hydralic in origin, try a longer rod from the slave cylinder to the clutch arm.

Good Luck,
Dan M.

We gonna try the suggesions made

keep you posted about the progress

Harry

DTDuck said:

A couple of very old tricks that might work for you:
Have someone sit in the car with the clutch about halfway in, the car in top gear and have someone else rock the car, this may break the disk free if it is stuck.
If the problem is hydralic in origin, try a longer rod from the slave cylinder to the clutch arm.

Good Luck,
Dan M.

Click to expand...

Ok, I come across this a lot, just fixed an MGA. I suggest at least trying the following method before you start removing parts.

Make sure your rear brakes are good, and work well, you may have to clean them out and balance the handbrake.

Jack up the car, and remove the rear wheels, put the axil on Jack stands.
Start the engine with the car in gear.
Sit there and let it idle and let the engine, clutch assembly, and gearbox warm up, the wheels will be going round, or they would be if they where on.
"Safer without the wheels"
Now press the clutch, if you have 13mm movement, it should be enough.
The only thing driving those wheels now is the stuck friction plate.
Brake gently and at the same time keep the rpm from going too low.

It usually works after a couple of tries.

Good luck.

busybrit said:

Ok, I come across this a lot, just fixed an MGA. I suggest at least trying the following method before you start removing parts.

Make sure your rear brakes are good, and work well, you may have to clean them out and balance the handbrake.

Jack up the car, and remove the rear wheels, put the axil on Jack stands.
Start the engine with the car in gear.
Sit there and let it idle and let the engine, clutch assembly, and gearbox warm up, the wheels will be going round, or they would be if they where on.
"Safer without the wheels"
Now press the clutch, if you have 13mm movement, it should be enough.
The only thing driving those wheels now is the stuck friction plate.
Brake gently and at the same time keep the rpm from going too low.

It usually works after a couple of tries.

Good luck.

Click to expand...

Indeed safer, but not near as much fun! It's been ages since I had to deal with a truly stuck clutch, and I did it pretty much as busybrit describes. However, I never failed to free a stuck clutch by being a bit more brutal; I left the rear wheels on (much added inertia) and I STOMPED on the brakes! Having the car solidly supported is a must, and I'd typically have it pointed to run OUT of the shop, not INTO a back wall should things go awry__which they never did.

Out of perhaps 3, 4 or 5 MGBs/Midgets that I encountered with a stuck clutch, the above exercise only failed once or twice on the first attempt; definitely only twice on the second, but freed itself on the charmed third attempt.

You can balance the risk(s) involved based on your desire to pull out the trans and access the clutch directly. I neither condone nor condemn the above practice; you do so at your own risk

I really think the safest way is out on the street. Of coarse have all the neighborhood kids held back to the curb by their mother's apron strings. Put it in gear, start it up and bump it out of the garage and point it down the street. You can also pull the coil wire so it won't start and bump it out to the street on the starter. Then put the coil wire back on, put it in high gear, hit the starter. Having warmed the engine in neutral in the garage, the engine now in the street will catch quickly, motor down the street a 100 feet or so, push in the clutch and nail the gas pedal. 20 years ago it took about 5 or 6 attempts at this till my clutch came free. I'm still using the same clutch.

i tried putting in gear and driving stomp brakes driving 20 min clutch in putting on jacks running stomp brakes also turning off car let die has new fluid etc no luck