TR6 TR6 Starter Replacement Tips

I've ordered a new starter from TRF (per recommendations-thanks) and the only time I've removed the starter is when I replaced the clutch and had the trans tunnel out. From the engine compartment & under the car the screws (top especially) look like a real bitch to get at--especially to put back in.

Any tips or tricks out there.

Thanks

stob62:
What seems to be blocking the way? If you have the windshield washer bottle removed, you should see most things on the top of the starter. The wires are important ans should be handled very carefully so the reconnect is correct. I suggest you lablel the wires.

Vettedog:
Getting to the top bolt is tough as it is in line with the body flange/cutout for the trans. I can barely get a wrench on it. What's the best way to get the nut back on? maybe tape the nut to the wrench and extend the wrench so I can hold it behind the hole? Any little trick to save dropping the nut a million times would be great.

I recently went through the same problem, except mine was worse, I rotated the starter 180 to clear my headers.
What I ended up doing is using a 1/4" drive and two flexible joints, and some sticky stuff in the socket. Believe it or not, with a really stong flashlight, you can see where there is room to get to the top nut from the bottom and inside the tranny tunnel. I think I also ground down a bargain-bin spanner for the top. I now have three or four highly modified tools for just one application somewhere on the car. I keep them in a small box with labels so I will remember. I sometimes forget what I had for breakfast. Of course, taking the tunnel out and the bolt goes in in 12 seconds. It ain't that bad, like changing the rear sparkplug on my old rat motor Vette, a friggin nightmare....

Bill