• The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
  • Hey there Guest!
    If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Tips
Tips

Working on the Bugeye body

Rhodyspit75

Jedi Knight
Silver
Country flag
Offline
I thought I would start a series of pictures and descriptions of the work I will be doing to bring my Bugeye back to a solid rust free specimen.

The first area I tackled was the b post bottom. Initial inspection made it look like it was an easy fix. Nope! Fortunately I learn kind of fast. I won't make that mistake again. Although in the end I think being harder than I thought made me learn a few things that I will need to know for the rest of the repairs.

Remember I was an electrician all my life not a welder or body man.

The he pictures tell the story of how things progressed.
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 

Jim_Gruber

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
That looks pretty good to me. Keep it up.
 

Bayless

Yoda
Silver
Country flag
Offline
Pretty nice work there.
 
OP
Rhodyspit75

Rhodyspit75

Jedi Knight
Silver
Country flag
Offline
The next challenge was to make a patch for the rear of the wheel arch. I made a buck out of MDF to get the proper radius to start with. Since the area has a compound curve and I don't own a Shrinker I made a few relief cuts to be able to get the shape I needed. Those got welded once the piece was installed.

Of course the inner arch was perforated too so I made and welded in a piece for that too.

Next up is to try to make a piece for the front of the outer rocker. I think I can do it using the same technique that I used for this patch. If not I will break down and order left and right rockers. I only need about the first 8 inches on either side so I hate to buy whole rockers and not use most of them.

image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
OP
Rhodyspit75

Rhodyspit75

Jedi Knight
Silver
Country flag
Offline
Really nice. Where did you souce the car from? If it's from New England and you don't have much worse than that to deal with, you have a winner!
I picked it up in Meridan CT. It had come there from NJ. No idea where it had lived before that. Several small areas of rust the worst being the trunk floor I have a new lower rear valance and floor, that will be tackled last.
 
OP
Rhodyspit75

Rhodyspit75

Jedi Knight
Silver
Country flag
Offline
Nice work man! Best of luck and keep us posted


Thanks. I have been away for several days but will be back in the garage shortly. Have an ugly area at the front of the drivers side rocker. image.jpg
 
OP
Rhodyspit75

Rhodyspit75

Jedi Knight
Silver
Country flag
Offline
All the rust cut back to good metal. image.jpg

The new inner patches welded in. image.jpg

Next i I will attempt to fabricate a panel for the front of the outer rocker. Wish me luck!��
 

sqbsprite

Jedi Trainee
Country flag
Offline
Good work! I would coat the insides of these areas with POR-15 or similar product to protect what you have done.
 
OP
Rhodyspit75

Rhodyspit75

Jedi Knight
Silver
Country flag
Offline
All the internal areas that I can reach are being wire brushed and the debris blown out. Areas that I can get to are given a coat of rust converter. Once all the welding is done then I plan to coat all the cavities with internal frame coating. My concern with coating the metal first then welding is that the coating will get burned off in the areas that need the most protection.

Doing it it at the end will seal all the rust and bare metal. image.jpeg
 

Rut

Obi Wan
Country flag
Offline
All the internal areas that I can reach are being wire brushed and the debris blown out. Areas that I can get to are given a coat of rust converter. Once all the welding is done then I plan to coat all the cavities with internal frame coating. My concern with coating the metal first then welding is that the coating will get burned off in the areas that need the most protection.

Doing it it at the end will seal all the rust and bare metal. View attachment 43726

Rust converter on the stuff you can spray, weld thru primer along the contact points, and the Eastwood internal frame coating works very well. One can will do the sill cavity on each side twice and make sure it's done before the car is painted. It will drip out of any holes and soften the paint and it's impossible to remove even when fresh.
Rut
 

Brinkerhoff

Jedi Knight
Offline
Sandblasting the metal you are welding to and spraying the internal pieces as you go then coating with 3Ms weld thru primer is the only way to go.
 

Brinkerhoff

Jedi Knight
Offline
I meant blasting the metal clean and spraying with weld thru primer before you start piecing it together. You also blast and prime the the backside of your patch with weld thru primer.
 
OP
Rhodyspit75

Rhodyspit75

Jedi Knight
Silver
Country flag
Offline
I have weld through primer but I don't have a sandblasted. I could borrow one but don't want to have sand all over my garage. I can't move the car out because my driveway is steep and it would end up in the street. I'm using a knotted wire wheel for paint and heavy rust removal.

Anyway heres the progress. Fabricating the repair panel for the front end of the outer rocker. It had to be made in two pieces because I couldn't bend the three bands required for the lower edge.

I know now I could have bought an after market rocker and used part of it but I wanted to try my hand at metal forming. And yes it took a long time to get this far but I'm happy with how it's coming out.

image.jpg
 
OP
Rhodyspit75

Rhodyspit75

Jedi Knight
Silver
Country flag
Offline
The drivers side rocker is finished. image.jpg

Here it is with a skim coat of filler. image.jpg


The under side of the front crossmember was so beat up that I couldn't leave it alone. image.jpg

Here it is after about an hours worth of work. Much better. image.jpg

Next up is the front of the passengers side rocker and it has less rust then the drivers side
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
J Helping out some students working on a 59 bugeye Spridgets 6
I Bugeye rear lights not working Spridgets 11
VelodromeRacer Pictures of the Bugeye racer I am working on.... Racing 10
D Trying to get back working on the 1974 Midget Spridgets 4
T Wanted Working overdrive unit Austin Healey Classifieds 2
D Overdrive Stops Working After Oil Change Austin Healey 26
S TR2/3/3A my OD stopped working after it was working Triumph 25
D TR2/3/3A Traffic at or and horn button not working Triumph 2
tr6nitjulius For Sale TR6 working/clean parts 4sale Triumph Classifieds 0
O Spitfire Tail lights not working Triumph 6
T Wanted Working Fuel Gauge for TR3A Triumph Classifieds 5
rgfrey 1959 Low Beam Headlights Not Working Austin Healey 5
Celtic 77 MGB Non working tach. MG 4
M Tachometer not working following ignition upgrade Austin Healey 10
S TR2/3/3A LED turn signal -- panel flasher not working Triumph 5
KVH General Tech Speedometer Not Working Triumph 5
S TR2/3/3A Horn not working unless I rotate the control head Triumph 6
S TR2/3/3A Speed O not working Triumph 27
M Wiper Motor Problem Not Working Spridgets 5
TRclassic3 TR4/4A A type OD working in 3rd but not in 4th Triumph 5
W Healey 100 Overdrive stopped working Austin Healey 15
1 MGB Lights not working MG 11
A MGA High beam indicator light not working MG 2
1 MGB Speedometer and tachometer on '66 MGB are not working MG 8
2billydavies TR2/3/3A generator doesn't appear to be working Triumph 7
Airwave BJ8 overdrive stops working after a while driving Austin Healey 17
warwick-steve Direction indicators not working Austin Healey 29
L Wanted WANTED: good Working Oil Pressure GAUGE Triumph Classifieds 0
Martinld123 Austin Healey 100 BN2 fuel gauge not working Austin Healey 13
Jim_Gruber Brake Light - Getting them working Spridgets 8
Superwrench Tach not working Austin Healey 6
M TR2/3/3A Panel lights not working........ Triumph 5
J General TR D Type overdrive not working need suggestions Triumph 5
R Master Cylinder change working Austin Healey 12
F Overdrive - working but not really working Austin Healey 14
T TR2/3/3A Air dam seems to be working very well Triumph 5
BN6_2197 BN6 brakes not working properly Austin Healey 9
bugedd Fuel guage not working Spridgets 7
Nelson Working under the car Spridgets 5
T Horn and rear right indicator stopped working...head scratch imminent Austin Healey 16
R Choke Not Working In Cool Weather Austin Healey 15
D new mecahnical fuel pump not working Spridgets 8
Gerry M TR6 Speedo stopped working Triumph 6
DanLewis Looking for an old-style fuel gauge [working or not] Spridgets 3
P I need a non-working electric tachometer for parts Spridgets 0
DerekJ Left side indicators not working. Austin Healey 3
G MGB STILL working on clutch slave MG 37
bigbadbluetr6 TR6 Rear tail lights not working. Triumph 17
J Funniest thing you found working on your car Austin Healey 32
B Horn Quit Working Austin Healey 14

Similar threads

Top