MGB OEM Original MGB Chrome Bumpers

SOLD...Yah. OEM Original MGB Chrome Bumpers

This seems to be a very educated forum so please educate me. I'd like to know and see the differences (difinitively) between the originals and Classic Gold reproductions. Thanks so much.

Sold...actually bartered and traded. Both won!!!

Where are these Classic Golds sold?

eBay, Sports Car Parts, Ltd, says this bumper is "Classic Gold" ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-MG-MGB-Front-Bumper-1963-1974-/171556248527?rmvSB=true

Not sure, but the bumpers on our GT may be after-market units. At both ends, the edges are quite rough, like maybe the die used to stamp the metal was past its prime. I don't think the originals would have been that rough, plus the metal seems a bit lightweight, maybe. I'll see some originals tomorrow, and check them against mine.

"Classic Gold" is sold by Moss. I believe it's their proprietary brand....like Duralast at AutoZone...

I can't answer your question in any detail but, from what I've heard from other owners, the repops are made of thinner metal, the chrome isn't as good (less durable) and the bumper ends are a completely different shape from the OEM bumpers...

I got front and back Classic Gold bumpers from Sports Car Parts Ltd mentioned earlier. I replaced the
front yesterday and am very happy. It led me to believe the PO misled me thinking I had originals. Therefore the fit is what I am used to and perfect finish! My old bars, won a trophy with them, will be hitting the classifieds soon. I look forward to seeing the difference.

princetn1 said:

I got front and back Classic Gold bumpers from Sports Car Parts Ltd mentioned earlier. I replaced the
front yesterday and am very happy. It led me to believe the PO misled me thinking I had originals. Therefore the fit is what I am used to and perfect finish! My old bars, won a trophy with them, will be hitting the classifieds soon. I look forward to seeing the difference.

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Glad it worked out! new parts can be a bit of hit and miss - and as mentioned, generally keeping the original is better. That said, I have used a number of new bits - shiny and otherwise and have had quite good luck. There have been some issues with tolerances (that I have experienced) With parts being made in a country far across the sea (the other direction from England) - My sense is that the original tooling gets worn, plus little things like a metric fitting instead of imperial might make its way in - and, let's be honest - jobs going to the lowest bidder. That said, I Also believe that whatever the label the parts themselves are coming from the same places (i.e shop on price) I recall Tony (a previous member of the forum) years ago noting that a part he had ordered from one parts company arrived with a sticker from another parts company on the part in the box. All that said, all's well that ends well - and, other than you now needing to post a picture or two we can get on to the next job! cheers

I had the front original rechromed, it looks better after five years than the repo I got from Vickie Brit. That one is starting to pit. And decidedly thinner than the original.

The car had been punted in the rear and repaired (in Chicago, a decade before we got it) poorly, the bootlid overhung the lower panel by a quarter inch. Think: overbite) After I'd hydraulically pushed that back into place and fitted another bootlid ( an original, sans luggage rack holes and rust), all is well. The fitting of the bumper was a fiddly task likely due as much to "slop tolerances" in its manufacture as the changes to the mounting points due to the prior shunt.

I actually priced re-chroming locally (no shipping costs) and it was $400 per bumper. Well, since I found out that I didn't have originals anyway, I went with front and rear Classic Gold repro's for less than $400. If they wear out and pit in 10 years, I'll do the same. My car is not concourse nor original so I'm good with making it look as good as possible.

princetn1 said:

I actually priced re-chroming locally (no shipping costs) and it was $400 per bumper. Well, since I found out that I didn't have originals anyway, I went with front and rear Classic Gold repro's for less than $400. If they wear out and pit in 10 years, I'll do the same. My car is not concourse nor original so I'm good with making it look as good as possible.

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which is a major part of the decision as well - if you just want to drive repros are great! (besides original or repro bumpers aren't going to help us much in an accident anyways! ;p

I would recommend fitting repos to a driver that is garage crept and keep the originals and re plate for future use. Repos do not have the same profiles and are thin. Would not recommend the repos for showing purposes.

DrEntropy said:

I had the front original rechromed, it looks better after five years than the repo I got from Vickie Brit. That one is starting to pit. And decidedly thinner than the original.

The car had been punted in the rear and repaired (in Chicago, a decade before we got it) poorly, the bootlid overhung the lower panel by a quarter inch. Think: overbite) After I'd hydraulically pushed that back into place and fitted another bootlid ( an original, sans luggage rack holes and rust), all is well. The fitting of the bumper was a fiddly task likely due as much to "slop tolerances" in its manufacture as the changes to the mounting points due to the prior shunt.

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I would expect that most of today's repro parts for these cars are going to be of somewhat lesser quality that OWM parts - bumpers included.

Basil said:

I would expect that most of today's repro parts for these cars are going to be of somewhat lesser quality that OWM parts - bumpers included.

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Not necessarily Boss, I would qualify it to say shiny bits. In my experience (assuming the fit is right) anything "chemically arrived at" is typically better now - rubber, gaskets, hoses etc. not to mention sealants and adhesives etc. There are also things that are being improved on (The AH chassis comes to mind) but almost everything has better tolerances and a better understanding of the properties of metal than there was 50 years ago - but alas, then there is the "lowest bidder thing." Maybe the real advice is Buyer Beware

I do not agree with the above. I call it flash chrome, and doesn't last for a years time in the real world. Rubber bits are even worse. These tend to crack often before the vehicle is even put in service.....look at your rack boots!

The reproduction bumpers may have a slightly different profile than originals. Sometimes with a repro front bumper one can see the last bolt head on each side of the valance to body line where the originals covered that bolt.