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68 XKE ENGINE REMOVAL

SONICPEEPER

Freshman Member
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I am going to remove the engine on my Jag but wanted to make sure that I was doing it right. Which bolts do I need to take out. I see most of the bolts but I would like to know if there is hidden bolts that I should know about? Once I remove the bolts and the two engine mounts and one mount on the rear top of the engine will the engine slide out? Is there an easy way of doing it? Is there any tricks to getting those tranny bolts near the top of the block? Im going to try and restore this Jag so any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

Larry Kronemeyer

Jedi Trainee
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Slides out under frame after removing torsion bars, refer to manual. Someone on forum that has pulled upwards needs to help otherwise, Haynes manual will make it easier, trans mount should come out as a unit below tranny?
Larry
 

Basil

Administrator
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As Larry said, you need to get a manual. The prefered way to get the motor out is not to pull it out from above, but rather drop it to the floor (well, set it down easily). Then you lift the fron of the car high enough to pull the motor out from under (or roll the car backwards away).
 

r67cat

Senior Member
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I have a series 2 XKE and have removed the engine/gearbox, as the service manual shows, from the top and can assure you that it is much easier to remove by lowering the assembly down to a skid and lifting the front of the car up. I have done it both ways. https://www.waterloo-dtr.com/Products/Conversions/Index.htm
If you go to the link above, you can print out a 3 page instruction guide that gives a step by step sequence to removing the engine/gearbox assembley. I think that it would be foolish to begin your project without the service manual. You will find this forum to be a great source of info. Good Luck
 
OP
S

SONICPEEPER

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Took about 16 hours to remove engine from top. It wasn't too hard but I can see where dropping the engine would of saved me alot of time. When I reinstall the engine I will have it towed and installed through the bottom. The engine is going to the machine shop on Monday for a total overhaul as will the tranny and differential. My new question is should I wait till the body work is done too have the engine reassembled or can I have the work done now with the knowledge that this engine wont be started for at least a year. Also, what can i expect to pay for body work on my XKE. It has very little body damage and the rust seems to be only surface. I have checked the car over very carefully. I would like a good paint job but Id like to get the paint job done for no more than 6 or 7 thousand. I will strip the car totally inside and out before I send it to the shop. What things can I do besides that to keep the cost down. Should I keep the Strombergs or go with Webers? The alternator, waterpump and starter have to be rebuilt. Any advice on where to send them. Also, the Radiator is toast, is there a good place to find a replacement? What kind of upgrades should I do to this car to make it run better. Im not looking for performance, rather, Im looking to make it reliable or as reliable as I can get it. From experience is it best to have old chrome rechromed or buy replacement pieces?
 

Basil

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I had mine done a few years ago and it was about $4000 for what was a very good paint job inside and out. Like you, I had mine bead-blasted completely and was totally disassembled before I took it to the body/paint shop. As for the engine, I suppose there will be differing opinions, but I would wait for the engine work and final assembly until you're nearly ready to put it back in. I had rebuilt mine around the same time as I had the paint work done, but its been sitting so long I am goint to take it apart again and check everything (and new seals, etc) just to be on the safe side. If I had it to do over, I think I would have waited to do the engine.

Cheers,
Basil
67 XKE #1E13333
 

Randy Harris

Jedi Warrior
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Originally posted by SONICPEEPER:
>>>My new question is should I wait till the body work is done too have the engine reassembled or can I have the work done now with the knowledge that this engine wont be started for at least a year.<<<

Have the engine done and the body done at the same time. Just be aware that there is a good chance that there may be some front rail nicks to be touched up and that the re-installation will require great care to avoid messing up your clean body work.

>>> Also, what can i expect to pay for body work on my XKE. It has very little body damage and the rust seems to be only surface.<<<

Depends on where you live and how high a quality job you require. It also depends what they find when the strip to bare metal. Lots of potential surprizes there,unfortunately. In No Calif Bay/Area you could not have this work done to a "high" level for less than $10k and it can easily double from there. Your mileage may vary. but again, it's all about what level of work you expect and how involved you want to be in the process.

>>>Should I keep the Strombergs or go with Webers?<<<

Nix the Weber idea. Nix the ZSs too. Go with the Series 1 spec 4.2 triple SU setup. It's what these cars were designed (and operate best) for and the look is far more original than a Weber setup. Expect serious money if you do this though. I'm undergoing this retrofit right now on my '68 and it's spendy!

>>>Also, the Radiator is toast, is there a good place to find a replacement?<<<

Lots of choices here. You may want to look into an aftermarket aluminum unit (the usuual cast of characters). But the '68 model with the twin fans isn't that prone to overheating so original equip here might be just fine.

>>>What kind of upgrades should I do to this car to make it run better. Im not looking for performance, rather......<<<

A kettle of worms here. How much money do you want to throw at this project? If the engine has the triple SU setup and they are well tuned, and assuming all other major components have been adjusted to spec or refurbished like new there isn't any need to do any aftermarket "tuning" for "better" running. Really. These puppies already run like the wind and are very reliable, assuming regular maintenance and quality repairs have been done. Put the extra money into quality tires, wheels, body/paint and hotel stays on your weekend jaunts to the country.

>>>Im looking to make it reliable or as reliable as I can get it. From experience is it best to have old chrome rechromed or buy replacement pieces?<<<

Rechroming is often more expensive than replacing with new - depending on the shop and your expectations. Personally, since I don't plan on showing my OTS for points, I'd rather my chrome look like it has been used. If it is presentable, doesn't have dings or rust, I persoanlly like to keep it that way and have it be a part of the "patina" of a 40 year old classic. Again, YMMV. Some chrome begs to be replaced and if yours does, go for it...
Best
Randy '68 OTS, '68 BJ8
 

r67cat

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I would agree with Basil and would wait to have your engine work done intil the body is closer to being finished. As for your carbs, I had mine rebuilt by Apple hydrolics, check Hemmings for their ad. Beautiful job, looked like new, they bench flow the carbs and they are ready to install. You can get a rebuilt alternator and water pump from XKS unlimited, high quality rebuild.(You will have to send your core) For reliabiality I would suggest you consider a new wire harness, I put a new dash,main, bonnet and alternator harness in my series 2 and went through every gage, now every bulb, switch and gage work like new. You will be amazed at the condition of your wires and connectors when you pull out the old harness. Also consider high quality polyurathane bushings, to replace the stock rubber. Good luck, Rick
 

Pmeyer610

Freshman Member
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Hello r67cat
Just found this post on engine removal.
Unfortunaly the link you provide no longer works.
As I need to remove thΓ© engine, it would be nice to repost it
Best regards
Pascal
 

Geo Hahn

Yoda
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Pascal -

I did not see that link but the preferred procedure of lowering the engine (with gearbox attached) is described in 'Chapter 13 Supplement' in the Haynes Manual if you have access to that book.

The process is pretty much what you would expect - I removed the bonnet & radiator to simply the work, then removed the various ancillaries and both the intake and exhaust manifolds. The rest of the exhaust system also comes off of course.

The nuts under the intake manifold are a bit of a pain to get at and removal of the torque reaction plate (allowing the torsion bars to remain in place) requires some care. I undid the ball joints, tie rods & shocks to allow the front suspension to go to 'full droop' to take tension off of the torsion bars to make that easier.

Once everything was clear I took the weight of the engine with an engine hoist and removed the motor mounts (and undid the rear stabilizer link). The engine could then be lowered onto a furniture dolly. The engine hoist is then used to lift the nose of the car high enough to permit the engine to be rolled out the side.

Mostly a matter of a whole lot of wrenching.
 
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It can be removed by lifting out the conventional way but I prefer the way Geo has described. The front picture frame is very likely to get damaged if lifted out. I've seem several where the picture frame is cut so the engine can come out that way.

Marv
 

Pmeyer610

Freshman Member
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Hello
Thanks for the description
I have the haynes and the original jaguar handbooks
I will keep you informed but it will take 2 or 3 weeks
Regards Pascal
 

Geo Hahn

Yoda
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The Haynes manual chapter is fairly complete but not much detailed instruction. The one step I take exception to is where they say to remove the small bolts that secure the torque reaction plate.

I was taught to leave the upper bolt in place (but knocked forward a bit) and replace the lower bolt with a hardened steel pin - then tap the reaction plate off. Maybe at full droop of the suspension (upper ball joints undone) this is not necessary but it seems safer to me.

TB%20Bracket_zpsjsly2gvy.jpg


Indeed, with that bolt and pin in place you can even remove the torque reaction plate without relieving the torsion bars -- but it is a bit more difficult to get the removed bolt back in and you risk damaging the threads.

Also - they mention undoing the rear support while the gearbox is supported with a jack but I don't think they make a clear that the support contains a big spring which is under a lot of load. You need to either deal with that spring as you remove the plate or put a very stout nail thru the hole in the pin before you undo it, then deal with it later.
 

Basil

Administrator
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Boss
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Interesting variance Geo. I think I am going to look into installing an "adjustable" reaction plate when I re-install my engine.
 

AH3000_DS5

Freshman Member
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Hello,

thanks for all that usefull info,
unfortunaly, my engine is still in, I removed everything except the damper pulley and the intake manifold.
Removing the plate for the torsion bars took me several hours (one of the bolts fixed to the body) even after disengaging the upper ball joints an lovering completely the lower ones.
My idea was lowering the engine, but I couldnt remove the intake manifold, it looks like its sealed, and some bolts are partly rusty, i put WD40 on it during several days, without success.
So I decide to extract the engine the hard way. I removed the small pully securing the damper pulley. Then I tried to release the damper with a pneumatic hammer, unfortunaly, it stiks.

So have you an idea how I could remove the intake manilfod without breaking it, and release the damper pully.
every help is velcome.

great regards
Pascal
 

Geo Hahn

Yoda
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...My idea was lowering the engine, but I couldnt remove the intake manifold, it looks like its sealed, and some bolts are partly rusty, i put WD40 on it during several days, without success...

WD40 would not be my choice for loosening things. I prefer a product called PBlaster but I do not know if that is available where you are. Kroil also gets good reviews. Some even mix acetone and transmission fluid though I am not convinced that is a great approach.

I assume you are talking about the many nuts that hold the manifold to the studs that go into the head. If all the nuts are removed (some are very hard to get at) then I would be working on that joint between the manifold and the head. Should come loose but possibly someone used some tough sealant there. Also possible that the studs have corroded and are gripping the holes in the manifold.

...I think I am going to look into installing an "adjustable" reaction plate when I re-install my engine.

You may want to get some opinions on that as some have tried it and later went back to the original plate. I think the problem may be that one vendor offered an adjustable plate that was not stout enough and could bend in use. At the very least see if you can find out who sells the good stuff.
 

vickxxx

Senior Member
Offline
Hello,

thanks for all that usefull info,
unfortunaly, my engine is still in, I removed everything except the damper pulley and the intake manifold.
Removing the plate for the torsion bars took me several hours (one of the bolts fixed to the body) even after disengaging the upper ball joints an lovering completely the lower ones.
My idea was lowering the engine, but I couldnt remove the intake manifold, it looks like its sealed, and some bolts are partly rusty, i put WD40 on it during several days, without success.
So I decide to extract the engine the hard way. I removed the small pully securing the damper pulley. Then I tried to release the damper with a pneumatic hammer, unfortunaly, it stiks.

So have you an idea how I could remove the intake manilfod without breaking it, and release the damper pully.
every help is velcome.

great regards
Pascal
I've always removed the engine the "hard way" without having to remove the damper pulley or manifolds. I always used an engine load leveler which makes it a breeze to pull the engine and trans out. You can articulate the engine to whatever angle you need to ease it out from its bay. If you are not using one of these, you may find it nearly impossible to extract that engine by yourself. There is a lot of weight with that engine and trans so try to keep the engine hoist arm at its shortest limit to maintain a good balance.
As for your sticky intake nuts, a little heat should break them loose. Did you manage to break the bolt loose on the damper and the damper is sticking? Anyways, good luck !
 
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I have had to remove an engine the hard way. One thing that helped was to put rear wheels on shop dollies to raise the back end up,then remove front wheel and put shop dollies underneath to drop front. This changes the angle some so its not so hard to pull.
Marv
 

vrracing

Freshman Member
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If you ever see an old, broken link you can often find the original document using archive.org. You copy the link, go to archive.org, paste it in and you'll see the history of the referenced document. You might have to look at the different snapshots of the document as it evolved over time.

Here are the removal instructions.

Code:
[TABLE="width: 100%"]
[TR]
[TD]by Mark Singleton, Sales & Support
707-792 7352[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][B]Engine and gearbox removal Jaguar XKE 4.2 & 3.8 liter cars[/B]
[B]1/ [/B]Remove battery.  This prevents any risk of accidents.
[B]2/ [/B]Remove bonnet.  This is optional but preferred as it allows easier access for engine lifting equipment. The bonnet is heavy and could be damaged if one person attempts removal; we find it best to use 3 people. One person at each side to support the bonnet and one person removes the locating pins and bolts.
[B]3/ [/B]Raise car with a trolley jack and place the car securely on axle stands. The car must be high enough to enable the engine to be removed from underneath the car so it must be high!  You require a minimum clearance between the ground and the lowest part of the front picture frame of 28 inches plus the height of your trolley.  The axle stands must be placed as far back as possible to prevent the car tipping backwards when the weight is removed from the front! Use old tires or wheels under the trunk floor to prevent this if you have nothing more suitable.  We suggest that you position the axle stands under the large rear radius arm mounts where they attach to the body.   The front stands should be positioned under the top-hat section at the front of the gearbox tunnel where the engine frames are bolted.   This might make it awkward when you remove the torsion bar reaction plate, but it is the strongest and safest area to place the stands. 
[B]4/ [/B]Remove gearbox tunnel cover to gain access to the nuts that secure the driveshaft to gearbox output shaft.  Remove these nuts.  This will necessitate the rotation of the shaft.  Make sure the shifter is in neutral and the handbrake is off.  The bolts cannot be removed at this stage. 
[B]5/ [/B]Remove speedo cable from right angle drive or remove right angle drive from gearbox with speedo cable attached.  This is also a good time to disconnect the wires on the reverse lamp switch, etc…
[B]6/ [/B]Remove the exhaust system as far back as the rear cage.  You may find it easier to remove the whole system.
[B]7/ [/B]Remove the cotter pin from the rear gearbox mount and support the gearbox with the jack.  This will remove tension from the rear mount spring. You can now remove the bolts from the plate. Then remove the jack after lowering it slowly.
[B]8/ [/B]Drain the cooling system, including the radiator, cylinder block and hoses.
[B]9/ [/B]Remove the cooling system hoses that go to and from the engine. Repeat this for the vacuum lines, throttle and choke cables.  Any wires going to the engine can also be removed at this stage.  Use masking tape around each one labeling where it came from.  This will be your best friend when you come to refit the unit!
[B]10/ [/B]Remove the fuel system connections. This can be done at the T piece or at the fuel filter.
[B]11/ [/B]Remove the exhaust manifolds.
[B]12/ [/B]Remove the Alternator/Dynamo and drive belts.
[B]13/ [/B]Remove the inlet manifolds and carburetors as one unit.  This may be easier if the distributor is removed first.  You can then place your hand along the underside of the manifold to gain access to some of the manifold nuts.
[B]14/ [/B]Remove the front wheels and loosen the nut on the top ball joint, but do not remove it at this stage.  On both sides of the car, remove the sway bar link that fixes the sway bar to the (wishbone) lower control arm.  Take the weight of the suspension only (do not lift the car!) with a trolley jack and remove the top shock-mounting bolt.  At this point, remove the nut holding the top ball joint and free the joint.  Now lower the jack and this will take all the tension out of the torsion bar.
[B]15/ [/B]Place the jack back under the transmission just to support the gearbox weight while you remove the reaction plate, then remove the torsion bar reaction plate.  The only problem you may have with this is if the small reaction mounts (the small splined items that fit on the ends of the torsion bar) are frozen to the torsion bar.  These should be driven or levered back along the bar until the mounts are clear of the reaction plate. Once this is done, undo the rest of the bolts holding the reaction plate and remove it. Leave the jack in position at this stage.  If you try to remove the plate with the suspension in place you are placing yourself in a dangerous position and risk personal injury and or damage to components.
[B]16/ [/B]Remove the starter.  Again, this is not essential but it can make it easier to get the unit out.  It is really no more work that the removal of a couple of bolts and a couple of wires.
[B]17/ [/B]Remove the clutch hydraulic line. This can be easily done at the joint from the hard line to the flexible hose that you will find on a bracket close to the starter motor.  Hydraulic fluid will leak out when the hose is removed and may damage you paintwork.  Place a hose on the bleed nipple and drain the fluid into a suitable container.
[B]18/ [/B]Fit engine hoist chains/hooks/straps to the lifting eyes on the engine.  If the lifting eyes show signs of corrosion, do not use them.  They have been known to break in half!  Instead use a lifting strap placed around the engine. Support the engine weight with the lifting equipment. 
[B]19/ [/B]Remove the engine stabilizer bar at the rear of the engine.  This should be done at the top of the mount by removing the center nut and the two bolts going through the bracket attached to the firewall.
[B]20/ [/B]Remove the front engine mounts entirely, including the brackets. 
[B]21/ [/B]Ensure that the engine hoist supports the weight of the engine.  Then slowly lower the jack and remove it.
[B]22/ [/B]Place a suitable trolley under the engine. This can be wooden or metal. You should make sure that it could support the combined weight of both the engine and transmission, which is approximately 700 pounds.
[B]23/ [/B]Lower the engine and gearbox unit onto the trolley. 
[B]24/ [/B]Pull the trolley forward from under the car.  If the car is not high enough, it can be lifted higher by the use of the engine hoist equipment, but extreme care must be taken.
[B]NOTES:[/B]
a.      You might find it useful to use zip lock bags with notes on the outside saying where the bolts are from. If you do that for each part as you take it off, you will find it easier when it comes time to put the units back into the car. 
b.     Take as many notes as you can at every step of the way.  It may seem silly now, but in two months you will be amazed how much you have may have forgotten.
c.     Take as many photos and drawings as you possibly can.
d.     If you get stuck or are unsure of what you are doing, consult the above instruction sheet, the shop manual, or even phone and ask someone.  This could save damage to components or parts and save you from injury.  We at Waterloo Drivetrain Systems are available for any help you may need.  Our contact information is listed below.
e.      If you are doing engine work, you might want to drain the oil before the engine is removed.
f.       A single person can complete this work, but it is not advised. Two people will make the whole task that much easier and faster.  You also have a friend available should a problem occur.
These notes are provided as helpful hints and it is in no way meant to replace the factory shop manual or personal experience and skill with hand tools.  It is provided as friendly advice only.[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

from https://web.archive.org/web/2003091...terloo-dtr.com/products/Conversions/Index.htm then click on the Advisory Bulletin link.

Hope that helps. Remember, everything you post to the internet is there forever!

Jim
 
Country flag
Online
Depending on your goal, like refurbishing the whole front end, if the bonnet is off you can also remove the radiator, picture frame and subframe, then bring the engine/transmission out the front without raising the car.
 
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