-
The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
-
Hey there Guest!
If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
General Tech Back to Viton and Mad Marx
- Thread starter KVH
- Start date
Share this page
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Doesn't sound right. What measurements did you get? The mandrel should be 2.818", while the old crank I just checked is 2.812 (give or take a few tenths)
When you say "machined end", do you mean the scroll area? The Viton seal is intended to be used with the original crank scroll intact (but would probably still work OK without it).
When you say "machined end", do you mean the scroll area? The Viton seal is intended to be used with the original crank scroll intact (but would probably still work OK without it).
PeterK
Yoda
Offline
Never thought about it and I'll now have to see if the new MM Viton seal kit will work OK on an already machined off crank scroll that I have from the Rover seal design.
Now back to the thread ...
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
After thinking about it, and checking the photo in the instructions; I take that back. The lip seal rides on the smooth surface just behind the scroll, which was originally machined to the same diameter as the scroll. Most likely, when the shop machines off the scroll, they will take that area off as well.
OP
KVH
Darth Vader
Offline
I rechecked. I'm right on with what you have. I came up with 2.810 on the crank, but I'm learning that even a micrometer takes some skill.
I seem always to get stuck on some other issue. I found a post advising that "liquid silicone" be used on the rear main seal, but others suggest something easier to brush on, like High Tack or Wellseal. I've got more tubes of different kinds of silicone than I care to count, but a tube "paste" product just doesn't sound right for metal to metal faces. I'd have to smear it all around with a putty knife of something like that. Any more advice on the adhesive?
Similar threads
Similar threads
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
TR4/4A "Mad Marx" rear main seal for TR2-4A once again available- Started by TR3driver
- Replies: 10
-
-
-
-
-
-
G
-
-
-
A friendly reminder - be careful what links you click on here. If a link is posted by someone you don't know, or the URL looks fishy, DON'T CLICK. Spammers sometimes post links that lead to sites that can infect your computer, so be mindful what you click.