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TR2/3/3A Clutch Master Cylinder "Stop" Bolt....

karls59tr

Obi Wan
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Anyone know the correct length that the stop bolt for the MC lever is supposed to be? And is the end of the MC pushrod supposed to be almost touching the lever when adjusted properly?
 

Geo Hahn

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Are you referring to the bolts on the front lip of the master cylinder bracket? Although those are not correct for my '59 (were eliminated by then though the holes remained) I added a pair to reduce some of the slop created by wear in the hole at the top end of the pedals:

StopBolts_zps2029b144.jpg


Since they were non-original I just used what worked - in this case a couple of 5/16" bolts 1¼" long. Because they are there to remove the play in a pedal at rest - the pedal (and rod) touch them when not in use.
 

TR3driver

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The stop bolts were deleted later on, I don't believe a 59 should have them.

The bolt listed in the SPC is 1-1/8" long. There is a service note on the Girling brakes that calls for 1/2" free play at the pedal "before the master cylinder piston starts to move". ISTR that is supposed to correspond to .030" measured at the stop bolt, with the pedal held down enough to remove all slack in the clevis pin & pushrod.
 
Last edited:

Don Elliott

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When I bought my 1958 TR3A (TS 27489 LO) brand new in May 1958, there were no stop bolts as delivered. Since then - like about 3 years ago, I installed one for one of my master cylinders to limit the travel as Geo describes above,
 
OP
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karls59tr

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Guess I could'nt see the forest for the trees when doing my slave cylinder adjustment..... blamed the release bearing and just about every other component...I just could'nt get the clutch working right. I turned the MC rod in about a 1/4" and voila a perfectly functioning clutch.:eagerness:
 
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