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Austin-Healey trunk script installation question

healeydan

Freshman Member
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In my attempt to install the A-H script on my '62 BJ7 I encountered the following problem. Of the three holes in the trunk lid for the script, the outer most hole cannot be accessed by hand due to the support piece underneath. There is just enough clearance between the lid and the support for a screwdriver or similar tool to reach the hole. I've tried in vain to finagle the push-clip into position for the script post but haven't been able to hold the clip securely enough to get it onto the post. Anyone out there know the trick?
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
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NEVER HAD THAT PROBLEM.
HOWEVER TRY SUPER GLUE ON THE CLIP FACE AND THEN CENTER THE CLIP OVER THE HOLE
.NOW SUPPORT IT AS REQUIRED WITH A TOOL AND MOUNT THE SCRIPT.

FORGIVE THE UPPER CASE CAPS LOCKED--:glee:
 

AH100M

Jedi Trainee
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I would recommend strongly against anything that would impede easy removal of the script. Removing it is essential when polishing, buffing or waxing the trunk lid. Easier to remove it than to try to buff around it or clean wax or rubbing compound from it. Maybe just use two of the three clips? If you gently bend the script to fit the contour the missing clip would not be needed to keep it flush with the trunk's surface.
 

BoyRacer

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This is not the purists way of doing it but, I have attached script many times using a small amount of silicone on the pins. It never damages the pins, it is easy to remove when necessary and it holds the script in place very securely, even on a race car.
 

AH100M

Jedi Trainee
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Sounds like a good idea. However, be careful - some RTV has a lot of acetic acid in it (sniff test) which may damage the paint. Maybe something more benign? How about blue-tac/fun-tac (poster putty) or Silly Putty?
 

Patrick67BJ8

Obi Wan
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I've used needle nose pliers with good success. Try the ones with the angle.
 
OP
healeydan

healeydan

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Keoke, you and I think alot alike. Instead of glue I'm using 'Paper Tak' from Ace Hardware. I also tied a piece of string to the clip for retrieval when the clip inevitably gets away. Part of the problem with this approach is that pressing the face of the clip at the opening exerts more of a clinch. Winds up being somewhat self defeating. Incidentally, the script posts being .200" I chose a 3/16" (.187") size push clip which requires some enlarging. I used a Dremel and conic grinding bit. This method works well but works fast too. Oversized the first clip right off. In mulling over suggestions and having a little time to reflect I think I may have been trying a clip that is still a little too tight. Will keep trying..........................
 
OP
healeydan

healeydan

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Hi Richard, I might try your solution if continue to be unsuccessful with the push-clip-on-the-end-of-a-screw-driver-fiddle method. By the way, you may recall a dork coming up from Eugene years and years ago who bought 4 tires from you. That dork was me and I still have those tires on the car.
 

Ed_K

Jedi Knight
Offline
In my attempt to install the A-H script on my '62 BJ7 I encountered the following problem. Of the three holes in the trunk lid for the script, the outer most hole cannot be accessed by hand due to the support piece underneath. There is just enough clearance between the lid and the support for a screwdriver or similar tool to reach the hole. I've tried in vain to finagle the push-clip into position for the script post but haven't been able to hold the clip securely enough to get it onto the post. Anyone out there know the trick?

I just drilled a hole through the support piece under the " inaccessible " mounting hole.

Ed K.
 

Healey Nut

Luke Skywalker
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I just drilled a hole through the support piece under the " inaccessible " mounting hole.

Ed K.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhrrrgggg another knife to the purist's heart lol
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
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I just drilled a hole through the support piece under the " inaccessible " mounting hole.

Ed K.

Yeah it is a good way to do it ,but you knew better en to say so on the forum---:angel2:
 

Legal Bill

Jedi Knight
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It it imperative to bend the script and arrow to the contour of the car. Be careful. The arrow wants to break off. Once you bend it, you can use the enlarged clip to hold on the hard to reach pin and it will stay put. If you do not contour the script first, it will have too much spring and the pin will pull free from the enlarged clip.
 
OP
healeydan

healeydan

Freshman Member
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I've used needle nose pliers with good success. Try the ones with the angle.


Patrick, this is the solution. I had a large pair with a 90deg bend and never thought to try. Thanx for the suggestion. This method works perfectly for a couple reasons. First, they reach. Second, if grasping the clip by its ends, it better facilitates insertion of the script post. Trying to press the clip onto the post from near the clip hole is self defeating. Lastly, once the clip is on the post, the plier ends can press the clip home as if using ones fingers.
 
OP
healeydan

healeydan

Freshman Member
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It it imperative to bend the script and arrow to the contour of the car. Be careful. The arrow wants to break off. Once you bend it, you can use the enlarged clip to hold on the hard to reach pin and it will stay put. If you do not contour the script first, it will have too much spring and the pin will pull free from the enlarged clip.

Hi Bill, I believe you are referring to the "3000" motif. And you are quite right. Understandably, I am dealing with this emblem as well as the script. The attached photo is of my make-shift bending jig. I'm using a heat gun as I gradually twist in more tension. I'm several days in now as I work towards matching an insulated wire that I shaped to the trunk lid..............dm
 

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Patrick67BJ8

Obi Wan
Silver
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Patrick, this is the solution. I had a large pair with a 90deg bend and never thought to try. Thanx for the suggestion. This method works perfectly for a couple reasons. First, they reach. Second, if grasping the clip by its ends, it better facilitates insertion of the script post. Trying to press the clip onto the post from near the clip hole is self defeating. Lastly, once the clip is on the post, the plier ends can press the clip home as if using ones fingers.
I also massaged the "curve" by using a piece of wood in a vice and carefully slid it back and forth with some slight hand pressure.
 
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