Search:

If you are planning a full restoration, I cannot see that happening in less than a year. If you are just freshening a few things with a paint job...then maybe, but even then only just. I can’t find...

It’s been so long since I installed mine I can’t remember the specifics...but I do remember having to modify the rubber to get it installed. I think that means I cut it??

Wow...more of these valves still around than I would have expected. So far I have:

Chuck, Rick, Kieth, and Steve. I've got some metal on the way and will get to them as soon as I can sneak away...

Great...PM your addresses and I'll put a couple on my to do list...

It was a breeze to cut. The most time was spent trying to decide how deep to groove the O-rings. I am sure that answer is in the machinist's handbook somewhere, but machining is still new to me. ...

Having read the book on restoring the TR's, I took a lot of time bracing my first restoration. I soon learned that it is not generally necessary. Even with no floors, the body is sturdy enough to...

Well, it's been a while since I posted a "how to" thread. This is one I've been meaning to get around to for quite some time...that leaky POS fuel valve the TR2 and early 3's came with. For those...

Interesting. Are the inserts solid Delrin or a Delrin insert in the middle of the larger brass insert?

Glad you solved it! I think I’ll have to rebuild mine soon. Funny, they were tight as a drum for 2 years, but starting to seep a bit lately.

Another leak I took on today was that original...

Every original rubber part I have found on a Triumph turns into Steve McQueen's Blob. LOL If there is any rubber reusable, I would guess it had been replaced already.

The body is only 16 extra bolts, which is fewer than what holds a front wing on! All rubber will need to be replaced, which means new body mounts.

Because the nut adjusts the resting position of the jet around the needle, changing the nut actually affects the mixture at all throttle positions.

I wish I were closer to come look it over. On the bright side, your finish is awesome!

I used a burr in my cheapo die grinder to massage those mounting holes quite a bit. The only limitation is...

The wiper is not really connected, is it? It looks like it is just laying sideways, unconnected to the aero screen. Tony, no, I don’t have a source. I could not find originals, so had mine...

On the TR2 they were very specialized chromed bronze bolts with a domed hex head on them...and not a standard thread. I don't know it that changed later or not.

I would have no problem re-using it. As far as value...anyone with the specs, i.e. lift and duration data, can re-cut one using an old stock cam for about $80. There isn't much money in used cams.

Are you asking if it is usable?

The flat is for oiling to the valve train.

Very hard to tell in a single pic...but in that one the rear scuttle looks low on the left. I can’t see the problem with the front.

If you are making the pieces yourself, then tap the countersunk screw to a standard size. In other words...it doesn't really matter.

I’m pretty sure the 3 stanchion screws are Witworth...the big 3 should stock them. If you are making the pieces yourself, then tap the countersunk screw to a standard size. You will need a witworth...

It’s a beautiful fit...a shame it rubs. Maybe some vinyl tape on the trim to protect the bonnet paint, and then live with the rubbing? I’m afraid anything you do is going to harm the beautiful...

Lower right side and rear of the radiator... and low on the block below the rear carb, but just above the starter. Unless you drain it regularly, the engine tap will likely be clogged.

I always painted the entire panel, but I have noticed that modern body shops prefer to feather the spray over just a partial panel. I figure it goes back to the fact older paints faded badly, and...

There they are...very cute!