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'67 GT - Pulling Engine - Disconnect Driveshaft?

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Quote Originally Posted by DrEntropy View Post
Pulling engine and trans as a unit is better than trying to detach the box, suspend it and pull the engine. Putting it back in is a real task to get all lined up and bolted together. Done it both ways, only once did I separate the two. Dozens of times the "right way." Much less grief.

My usual order is:
Wiring/electrical first, trans reverse light switch, too (if it has an O/D trans, don't forget that wire! Ask me how I know).
Fluids (fuel, coolant, hydraulics). Slave cylinder can be removed with the two bolts and using mechanic's wire or cord, kept out of the way (use a long tie-wrap to hold the slave piston from escaping).
Mechanicals last. Shifter removal, the radiator by unbolting the bolts of the support and pulling it all as a unit. Disconnect the driveshaft from trans (I usually put a paint mark on both parts of the flange so it goes back in the same location). Exhaust/intake removed as a unit. Use a jack on the gearbox to keep it from dropping and undo the four crossmember bolts, lower the jack to access the bolts on the gearbox holding the crossmember in place. Then with the car on its wheels, put some tension on the engine with the hoist and undo the motor mount bolts.

It is likely the trans crossmember mounts are shot, so expect to replace them.
It takes a bit of fettling to get the unit out, it requires a good bit of angle to clear all the bits you can scratch or dent. Take your time, it will come out.

Another time saver: You can rope the hood into a near vertical position with using the rear hatch/trunk lock as an anchor point, the need to remove the hood is eliminated.
And as always: "reassembly is the reverse of the above."

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