View Full Version : TR2/3/3A new rear brakesshoes wont fit

06-12-2014, 04:44 PM
I am trying to install new Moss Classic gold 10" rear shoes .Adjuster seem to be all the way in( no gap in the cylinders seen thru the hole in adjuster)but I cant get the drums back on.The drums are in good shape and appear to have never been turned.
It seems I have two options.Take the drums to be machined which would give some more clearance,or grind some off the ends of each shoe.Or am missing something with the adjustment?
The new shoe pads are .25 thick,and they fit the radius of the drum nicely when laid inside and pressed on the center.
any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.

Andrew Mace
06-12-2014, 08:00 PM
Do you mean the linings are .25" thick? Seems awfully thick to me. I wouldn't suggest machining the drums any more than might be needed only to remove any ridges.

Geo Hahn
06-12-2014, 09:03 PM
I hate to admit it, but I finally took a belt sander to mine to trim them down a bit. I wonder if they are made on the assumption that all our drums have been turned a few times through the years (the ones I used had not)?

06-13-2014, 07:34 AM
There is usually a ridge on the inside edge of old unturned drums that can cause this issue. Removing this and truing the rest of the drum surface should fix. Tom

06-13-2014, 08:31 AM
There is usually a ridge on the inside edge of old unturned drums that can cause this issue. Removing this and truing the rest of the drum surface should fix. Tom

Thanks for replies.No ridge inside the drums.Yes,the pad material is .25 thick.The old pads,which looked new but where oil contaminated,measued about 3/16,so guessing Im dealing with about an extra 1/8 diameter.
I don't want to turn drums as they look good.I will call Moss but have a feeling I will be grinding a little off each shoe end or returning the pads.If the old shop that used to radius the shoes to drums was still around I would do that.
I thought this was going to be a 1/2 hour job.

06-13-2014, 09:16 AM
Old LBC never just a half hour!

06-13-2014, 10:37 AM
Yes I had the same problem years ago in the 70’ before Moss and the fix I used was like Geo’s and I am about at that point now with this project. I am thinking I might take the old shoes to specific brake and clutch shop and have the shoes relined there and also leave the drums with them, plus tell them about the problem. I think they charge 25.00 a shoe and that is basically the new price. I was even thinking to converting to 9 inch brakes by swapping out the back plates, but I like to stay original. So I guess you could send the shoes back. Moreover, those brake shops offer different types of padding.

06-13-2014, 11:33 AM
I ground my pads down.

06-13-2014, 05:33 PM
i also used the belt sander on the brake shoes also 10"



06-13-2014, 09:00 PM
I had my old brake shoes relined by Ted Schumacher at TSI in Ohio. They fit like a glove.

06-14-2014, 08:33 AM
Thanks for all the replies.I talked to Moss and they said they sell lots with no complaints.I told them it looked like if I ground a little off the ends they would fit.Moss tech gut said that would be best,but they would take them back as is or after I tried to grind and fit if I wasn't happy.
I took about 30 or 40 thou off each plain end of shoes and a little less off the E brake ends and the drums now fit.
I dint want to belt sand because the shoes seemed to be the correct radius and other obvious reasons.
I did watch some cool youtube vids on brake arcing,and some interesting reads on car forums.For instance the guy on a model T forum who lined the inside drum with self adhesive sandpaper then bolted on drive wheel and ran motor while holding shoe in drum to sand to shape.
Apparantley many brake suppliers have oversize shoes(30% over stock pad matl thickness) ,radiused to +.030 new drum ID rather than .020 under new id which would be as new which works for most users and their turned drums.

Lucky I got away with a little trim with the 2" pneumatic sanding disc.
Thanks again