View Full Version : TR4/4A tr4a irs left rear wheel

grant tr4a
02-13-2014, 05:59 PM
Hi, I noticed the left rear wheel has about 1/2" camber in at the top, right rear is about 3/16". I jacked up the rear end and found the left wheel will rock from side to side and top to bottom about 1/4" + or -. It will move in and out maybe 1/8". How do I tighten up the wheel bearing? Pulled off the brake drums and everything looks good inside. Grant

02-13-2014, 06:03 PM
First I would verify that the hub is securely attached to the trailing arm, and that the trailing arm brackets are in good shape. It it really is the bearings in the hub, it is time to have them rebuilt/replaced....

Marvin Gruber
02-13-2014, 08:54 PM
Like Darrell said, sounds like the bearing is bad. Do you hear some roaring noise when driving. Jack it up again and spin the wheel. Do the same to the other side and compare.


02-14-2014, 02:09 AM
I agree about checking the trailing arm brackets, if the frame is weak from rust where the brackets mount it will collapse (hopefully slowly over time) and allow for play in the suspension, try tightening the bolts that hold the bracket on, I don't know how common it is, but have heard the brackets themselves can crack too. Could also be the bearings, but I would verify the brackets are OK first, good to do for safety purposes anyway.

02-14-2014, 05:20 PM
We had several reported bracket failures in the UK recently.
This potentially a dangerous area. Please check these.

Also if the hub bearings fail we have had guys go off the road.


02-14-2014, 06:09 PM
What they all said. A known weak point is hub attachment to aluminum trailing arm, I put in helicoils. Hub it'self a very few can rebuild or for about the same $ shiny new Goodparts hubs for peace of mind, although not correct, was my choice.

grant tr4a
02-14-2014, 07:00 PM
Marv, I jacked it up and spinning the wheels there is no difference between the two sides. I took off the wheels and took a real measurement of the in and out play. It turned out to be .007 -.008. I guess the number in my pervious post was how much I imagined it was moving. It feels like when a front bearing needs to be tightened. I checked the trailing arms, they are solid with no rust. Is there a way to tighten it up a little? Does it have to be removed? Grant

02-15-2014, 10:50 AM
Cannot tighten like a front bearing, they need rebuilt and will only get worse. Get the Goodparts hubs and be done with it. Play in that bearing is dangerous. That 7 to 8 thou movement converts to a lot at the circumference of the tire.

02-15-2014, 11:27 AM
It takes a certain combination of tools, skills, and knowledge to repair these rear hubs. I would consider either getting the new hubs from GoodParts or having Phil rebuild them. https://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/15-mechanical-repair-maintenance-a-restoration/252787-Rear-wheel-bearings

02-15-2014, 08:25 PM
Phil's the man, does quite a nice job at a great price.

grant tr4a
02-15-2014, 08:44 PM
Tom, I would like to get in contact with Phil about rebuilding my rear hub, can you provide me the contact information. Is the hub and half shaft only connected by the six bolts thru the hub flange, can these be removed with the brake shoes in place. Grant

02-16-2014, 12:49 AM
I don't think you can take off the hubs with the brake shoes in place, too hard to get to the bolts that hold it on. It is not too hard to take the shoes off, I pried them off with a screwdriver and didn't even take the springs off, they can be put back on the same way.

02-16-2014, 10:54 AM
I have removed the bearing assembly a few times without removing the brake shoes. I remove the U joint from the differential and slide everything out. There is a little screw and nut that has to be removed from the inner top of the aluminum housing. I forget what it anchors.

02-16-2014, 11:02 AM
sent you a pm,or email me at Sjaegeling@aol.com

02-16-2014, 11:21 AM
There is a little screw and nut that has to be removed from the inner top of the aluminum housing. I forget what it anchors.

You are probably thinking of the hand brake cable.