View Full Version : TR5/TR250 TR250 Worth restoring

10-27-2013, 12:22 PM
Ok guys I need some opinions. I have the option to buy a tr250 thats been in storage since 1973. The motor is stuck and I will not be able to go see the car until this saturday so I do not know any more than what the pictures show. The owner claims that there is no rust in the floorboards but that the rear section of the rocker panels is rusted out and need replacing along with the rust shown in pictures. He said it was stored on a concrete floor. He owned the car and sold it to his cousin in 1973 who put it in storage, he bought it back last year and has done nothing with it. Price would be $5000

Some other important info, I'm already restoring a TR3a with mechanicals done but no paint on the body yet. I also have a TR4A that is a nice quality driver, so I have plenty of cars to keep me busy.

So what do I do, a factory red 250 with original overdrive seems hard to pass up even with rust problems. I'm aware this will cost between 20-25k to finish properly.

Geo Hahn
10-27-2013, 04:29 PM
...I'm aware this will cost between 20-25k to finish properly.

Just my opinion... but I think that guesstimate is low.

I'd like every TR to be saved by someone, but those who do, do it for the love of the car knowing it is often a financial loss.

10-27-2013, 04:46 PM
I purchased a TR250 for $2500 and was in a lot better shape. $25,000 to restore is about right. If you do all the work yourself. A lot will depend on how bad is the rust. Check the frame and rear diff. mounts. Like nGeo Hahn said you do it for the love. Triumphs (all LBC's) are not investments. They are for the fun of the drive, and the smiles on the people you pass.

10-27-2013, 05:38 PM
I love 250s, but that amount of body rust would scare me, and 5K seems mighty spendy!

Marvin Gruber
10-27-2013, 09:07 PM
With that kind of rust in the upper pillar/post area, look the frame over very closely. 250 frames have always been bad to rust in the back, even if the tub looks good. It can be saved but at what cost. I'd be interested in it for parts but not at $5k.


10-28-2013, 07:59 PM
As Marvin indicated, definitely check for frame rust especially where the rear trailing arms attach and the rear extensions. Above the rust you can already see in the rear fenders and inner rear H-section, frame rust will definitely increase your cost to restore. I'm surprised to not see any rust in the lip of the trunk lid given how bad the rear fenders are.

Let us know what your find when you get a chance to look at it.


10-28-2013, 08:40 PM
Looking at pic #2 sends a shiver down my spine. That border around the dzuz fasteners stays there when the fender is removed. Short, rolled sections like that are visible after repairs, and, as such take a lot of time to get right.
As cool as 250's are, this car is what I would call a PROJECT.
If you are in, get it as cheaply as you can.
Good luck to you.

10-29-2013, 02:34 AM
It appears that most votes are similar; Buy it for $500-$1K or walk away. There sure is alot of rust & in all the critical places without looking / seeing the Frame.

Best Wishes,


10-29-2013, 09:24 AM
... Buy it for $500-$1K or walk away...

Agreed. Seller may argue it's worth more for parts - and he'd be right. Sometimes that's just the unfortunate fate of some cars...

Marvin Gruber
10-29-2013, 09:56 AM
I'll do $2000 for the parts!


10-29-2013, 12:29 PM
My thoughts were right along what Marv said, I looked at it and said "it's worth 2k to 2.5k as a parts car, no more" It's in far worse shape than my TR6 was when I bought it for 4k (mine was driving and on the road) and I was already 15k into the resto before I started on the body work (which is when mine turned into a Hunter roadster instead, the body under the quarter panels was so bad)

10-29-2013, 11:39 PM
Its marked as an O/D car, that is a plus, it doesn't look too much different from mine when I started, mine had a few TR6 bits cobbled on, but the rust was not quite as bad (as far as I can tell from the pics). Since the car needed everything I just ordered the parts from the Roadster Factory each week as they went on sale, lucked out with two good used rear fenders I got locally and cheap, had a motor that needed minimal machine work, and probably spent about 10-12k redoing everything, all my own work. It indeed looks like quite a project, if you can weld or want to learn and have lots of time you can fix most anything on a TR as it all comes apart, but lots of time and work. Even project TR250s bring a lot of money, but still think I overpaid for mine, unless you really want to get started now you might want to consider shopping around more, in other words do as I say, not as I do......

10-30-2013, 12:44 PM
Car was just sold out from underneath me. Seller says someone paid 5600 for it.

Mickey Richaud
10-30-2013, 12:51 PM
Car was just sold out from underneath me. Seller says someone paid 5600 for it.

More power to him...

...He'll need it!

10-30-2013, 12:53 PM
A mystical power

Geo Hahn
10-30-2013, 04:35 PM
That's a $5600 down payment. I wish him luck & success.

10-30-2013, 08:32 PM
I had expressed interest in this one too . I'm glad I didn't waste a trip (about 150mi.) Its too bad but a restoration isn't justified. I don't think $25,000 would fix the body.

10-30-2013, 09:46 PM
Well, it's funny how things work. I'm getting ready to take a rear section of a TR4A to the scrap yard to sell the metal, it's cut about 6 inches in front of the door opening. Last time I looked it had some rust holes were the fenders mount. It should be coming out from under the house in the next week or so. I know the floor and enter fenders were good 25 years ago. If it something you can use, just give me a shout, I could clear cut a few inches from what you need and shipping would be next to nothing compared to shipping as a whole.
No rush, been moving for 6 months and I'm getting ready to give what's left away, not yet tho.


10-30-2013, 10:46 PM
Not sure it would be a restoration project in my book. You can find better starting points and be money ahead.